I Believe I'm Not Finished: Block Honing

-
Be sure to take the block to the machinist BEFORE you buy pistons and rings. They will be able to tell you what overbore the block will need, then you can buy the pistons and rings. If you get in good with the machinist, you might be able to trade the std bore rings to them for whatever overbore you block will need. Just some thoughts for you, good luck with your build.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I am not going to sugar coat this the bores are shot . It needs to go to a machine shop and get bored tor new pistons. Not often do you see a ridge at the top and bottom. Don't waiste any more time on those cylinder bores they are toast. Yeah it'll run but not good and not for long. why waist the gaskets and oil.
Click to expand...


X2 Dan
 
My advice, being that you're young and new at this, is invest in the TOOLS for yourself. A little experience, the right tools, and damn near anything can be made to run acceptably or even decently. If you are doing engine work you need a set of cheap micrometers, and a cheap dial bore gage, plus a cheap magnetic dial indicator, and a really good torque wrench. Look on line for them. You'll spend a little for them but less than you've spent on the parts for the 318 and they will serve you well provided you learn how to read them and don't drop or toss them around. I say but the tools, because 20 minutes with a dial bore gage would have saved you from buying the hone, the wrong size rings, and wasting some time. And tools will provide a return every time you use them.
 
JoJo experience is a great teacher as long as the price of the school is in your budget. There are some great "Rebuilding the MOPAR Small Block" books for sale on Amazon. Any of the books by Larry Shepard are good. If you don't already have one I'd recommend getting one or two if for nothing else as a reference for the specifications. Any money spent on books is usually worth while. Dan
 
Demonracer said:
Be sure to take the block to the machinist BEFORE you buy pistons and rings. They will be able to tell you what overbore the block will need, then you can buy the pistons and rings. If you get in good with the machinist, you might be able to trade the std bore rings to them for whatever overbore you block will need. Just some thoughts for you, good luck with your build.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I will definitely let the machinist check it out before the pistons are purchased and will keep the exchange in mind.
 
Looks like bore job is in order. Make sure they use torque plates !!!
 

Attachments

  • 100_0939.jpg
    102.2 KB · Views: 126
moper said:
My advice, being that you're young and new at this, is invest in the TOOLS for yourself. A little experience, the right tools, and damn near anything can be made to run acceptably or even decently. If you are doing engine work you need a set of cheap micrometers, and a cheap dial bore gage, plus a cheap magnetic dial indicator, and a really good torque wrench. Look on line for them. You'll spend a little for them but less than you've spent on the parts for the 318 and they will serve you well provided you learn how to read them and don't drop or toss them around. I say but the tools, because 20 minutes with a dial bore gage would have saved you from buying the hone, the wrong size rings, and wasting some time. And tools will provide a return every time you use them.
Click to expand...

Not having the needed tools laying around is a constant thought and is discussed with my dad on a regular basis. I will be investing in a lot of tools soon because I have the intentions on working on a few other projects I have and ones I find browsing the net. Thanks for your advice.
 
75Sport said:
JoJo experience is a great teacher as long as the price of the school is in your budget. There are some great "Rebuilding the MOPAR Small Block" books for sale on Amazon. Any of the books by Larry Shepard are good. If you don't already have one I'd recommend getting one or two if for nothing else as a reference for the specifications. Any money spent on books is usually worth while. Dan
Click to expand...

The budget ordeal is just temporarily. I'm already enrolled at the local technical college for Marketing Management (Associate's Degree in Business Administrative Technology). All I would have to do is switch programs and make the drive to the other campus (30 minutes away). I will be buying that book along with others :D. I forgot the company's name that sell all the automotive books at the moment, but I have their catalog laying around at the house. I've already invested in a couple... The more the better.
 
If I was in your shoes which I was more than once. I would take a trip to a local U-pull-it salvage yard. In the past if I needed a motor for a car going together I found it Cheaper to buy someone elses discarded project. Look for a truck that is rusted or damaged so bad that that would be the reason for it being there. Alot of the 60s - 80's dodges were rust buckets and the motors out last the bodies. I alresdy found a Crate motor. Take a vavle cover off and look at the Rockers for carbon deposits . rub your finger over the rocker Black residue walk away. Usually signs of worn rings and or oil not changed regularly.

If its clean pull a plug and look at the bore with a scope. You want to see hssh marks on the bores. If you do not have a lighted magnetic scope you will have to pull a head. I aways find a ready to install motor. Where I go they pull them for $169 thats with the cost of the motor and everything attached. Pull the didtributor and carb and anything else you don't want damaged because they cut everything with a torch. I believe you will save alot of money this way. I already found a 68 340 in a 77 dodge van. Fresh I paid the 1 $169 and sold it for $2500. Don't waist your time on a worn out 318. Before you know it you'll have over $100 in it . If the cylinders are that bad . The guides and seals in the heads can't be much better. And what about wear on the crank.and cam bearings. You can also take out a lifter and see if it has a circle on the base good sign of wear.

Do yourself a favor and stand it on its back . slip the front of the crank in backwards and make a mail box stand out of it. You can't make perfume out of a turd. You can try but it will still smell bad in the end unless you buy a **** load of flowers

The only thing you should have to buy for a good 318 motor in a daily performance driver today is.
Pan gasket
head set kit
Timing chain gasket set
timing chain set
rear main seal.
and check the thrust bearing for wear on the back in a stick vehicle.

There is a guy on here that is from Edison NJ . He races a demon . I have been to his place . He sells profesionally built motors at a reasonable price . If I was in the need for a motor thats done. Thats where I would go. He knows his small blocks . He had a couple 340's ready to go when I was there.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top