I need a parts expert please

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LJ67barracuda340

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Anyone know if there's a dime store dist cap that will fit a MSD pro billet dist. I need to phase my dist rotor for the FiTech on my 340. Can't bring myself to drill a hole in a $50+ cap. I'd like to know what Chevy year/engine would replace this cap just for the phasing process. Not up on all my Chevy stuff.
thanks Larry

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Just call Pace Performance. They have the MSD (and clones) and can get you a cap and the required phasable MSD rotor at a great price.
Good thing is if you drill the hole cleanly, you can probably get some money back as you pass it along to the next guy making the jump to FiTech..

Pace Performance | Chevrolet Performance
 
the whole point of the effort is to phase the rotor as accurately as possible. I would use the same rotor that I will actually be running..
 
the whole point of the effort is to phase the rotor as accurately as possible. I would use the same rotor that I will actually be running..
I'll be using the MSD adjustable rotor I need a cap with a hole drilled to check it's set correctly. Just don't want to run with a hole in the cap.
 
Oh I get it, I have an MSD and running FiTech myself. I'm just saying I would use the same PN to dial in the phasing as you are going to actually run. If you just use a cap that's "close", your results will just be "close", and you can get close without even visually phasing it.
 
Oh I get it, I have an MSD and running FiTech myself. I'm just saying I would use the same PN to dial in the phasing as you are going to actually run. If you just use a cap that's "close", your results will just be "close", and you can get close without even visually phasing it.
I agree, the issue I'm having is I'm using a Crane ignition box. When I set the phasing as "close" as I can, under high load, low rpm, I get a miss fire as if the multi strike is continuing long enough to hit the next cyl. When I disconnect the box and run straight from the FiTech (single spark) the miss is gone. That's why I want to "see" the phasing position to confirm it's correct. thanks Larry
 
so with the rotor locked out, you may not have enough sweep..
 
I think the max sweep was 20°, so 18° initial, gets you 38° total.. I went 16° initial, 20° idle, 36° total..
 
when I say initial, I mean the "base timing". That is what the FiTech will pull while cranking, then goes to your idle setting once you pass your idle RPM target. I wanted that ability for a clean hot start, but wanted 20° at idle. It's the reason I have FiTech running the timing, plus the ability to tinker with timing going down the road is nice as well...
 
with the crane box, is it required you lock out the MSD?
 
putting a hole in your cap is no problem and will not cause any problems

This is From MSD.

Ionization occurs when the air inside the cap
becomes electrically charged resulting in spark scatter
or crossfire. It is more prevalent in smaller caps and
again in areas with higher humidity. MSD rotors are
designed with high vanes to help stir up the air
preventing a charged area from building up. For more
prevention, you can DRILL VENT HOLES in the cap to release
the pressure and to introduce fresh air. The holes
should be at the height of the rotor skirt and at least 1/4"
in diameter.
 
putting a hole in your cap is no problem and will not cause any problems

This is From MSD.

Ionization occurs when the air inside the cap
becomes electrically charged resulting in spark scatter
or crossfire. It is more prevalent in smaller caps and
again in areas with higher humidity. MSD rotors are
designed with high vanes to help stir up the air
preventing a charged area from building up. For more
prevention, you can DRILL VENT HOLES in the cap to release
the pressure and to introduce fresh air. The holes
should be at the height of the rotor skirt and at least 1/4"
in diameter.
THANKS 1970,, a buddy of mine tried to tell me something similar about his drag racing days but he's a Chebby guy and sometimes I don't listen.
 
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