IDLER ARM QUESTION

[downsr]

The idler arm i purchased came with two felt washers and a metal flat washer.Does the flat washer go on the top or bottom of the idler arm when installing the bolt through the k - member Or should they be two flat washers one on top one on bottom.This is for a 70 duster small block

 

[AJ/FormS]

In theory
The center of the idler arm ball and the center of the pitman arm ball, should be at the same height relative to the ground plain.In practice, this is hard to measure. But the whole reason for this is to set the centerlink parallel to the ground-plain; and that is much easier to measure. Doing this will minimize bump-steer.
In reality,
that washer makes so little difference, you might as well put it where ever it wants to be for header or oilpan clearance;or where ever it is easiest to install.

When I installed those offset Moog UCA bushings and set the caster to the maximum that they would allow with about -.5* camber, the toe-pattern went a little bonkers. During the rectification procedure for that, I had to slot out the lower idler arm K-frame hole, in conjunction with that washer for height adjustment,to put that arm into a correct working angle. Afterwards I tack-welded that washer in, so that it became the new lower anchor point,and that when it came time to replace that arm, the replacement would hopefully drop right into the correct working relationship.

 

[downsr]

I also noticed that the bolt that goes through the bushing has slop in it letting the idler arm move when turning the wheels

 

[AJ/FormS]

I also noticed that the bolt that goes through the bushing has slop in it letting the idler arm move when turning the wheels

Look carefully.
The job of the bolt is to clamp the center bushing between the frame tabs. There is no reason for it to be tight inside the spacer/bushing. In fact if it is too tight and if it decides to rust up in there, it would be very difficult to remove it.
No the "slop" should occur between the bushing and the body, and if you see it, the arm is worn out.
If the slop is in fact where you say it is, then the bolt is loose. That is not good. It allows the spacer/bushing to move around wearing out the frame tabs, but more importantly it allows the tierod to move around too. And when that happens, the car gets to wandering and following ruts and just generally pissing me off.lol

 

[6pk2goDemon]

Here's the Moog instructions...

 

[nm9stheham]

I also noticed that the bolt that goes through the bushing has slop in it letting the idler arm move when turning the wheels

As AJ's said, the bushing should be hard clamped by the bolt between the tabs, once it is torqued to the spec of 60 ft-lbs +/-. All of the motion should just be in the rubber around the bushing, or the rubber inside the arm casting. If it is moving up and down any, then the idler arm bolt is too worn (look at the underside of the head), or the tab holes are wallowed out and are worn smooth and the bushing is not being hard clamped in place.

BTW, clamp the bolt down to torque spec with the wheels centered. And clean all of the grease off the tabs and ends of the bushing so they will lock together when clamped. Lube it AFTER it is all clamped in place so you don't get grease between the bushing ends and the tab surfaces that might allow things to slip around.

BTW#2, I see you are from Waverly.... I used to go through there on the Sunriser 400 Forest Rally... .nice territory!

 

[downsr]

I can not get any washers on the top or bottom of the bushing.I think i just did not have the bolt tight enough.Do the washers have to be in there? I am sure it was not torqued at 60 before.I had another idler arm an placed it in there an tightened it without any of the linkage hooked up and could'nt move it .Should you be able to move it or do you need the steering linkage to give you enough leverage to turn it

 

[nm9stheham]

post deleted

 

[AJ/FormS]

If the washers are thin and hardened then yes they should go in there. Check the hardness with a small file. If the file cannot leave a mark, then they are hardened.By installing them,chances are better that the spacer tube inside the idler will not damage the K-frame over time, and chances are better that the bolt will keep it's torque. You may have to spread the tabs a hair.
Some brands of arms are very tight after the initial install. Sometimes it seems they need a boot to break them loose. But if yours is still very tight after breaking it loose, the car will steer strangely until it breaks in.This, firstly, is very annoying and secondly can take an annoyingly long time.
I have not had this kind of trouble with Moogs or TRWs.But I have had to un-install off-brand junk, for this reason. Off-brand BJs too.

 

[BigBlockMopar]

Too tight idler arms can hold the steering in position during cornering. Dangerous situation if you expect the wheels to return to straight.
The idler arm should make the exact same arc as the pitman arm on the steeringbox does.
I usually also check for a proper alignment of the steering link by measuring the distance to the torsion bars above them on each end.
Don't always assume the steeringbox is in the correct spot/angle either. A lot of things can be 'off' on these cars.

 

[Duane]

Here's the Moog instructions...

View attachment 1714997390

View attachment 1714997391

I just purchased this same moog problem solver idler arm. It is not of the same design as a stock idler. The instructions posted in the attachment clearly state that if only one washer is provided, it is to go to position B which in the picture shows the washer to go on the bottom of the idler bolt sleeve. The instructions have to be read carefully. It took me a couple of reads to understand.

Duane