If I have to pull it from the top ?

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garyfish340

garyfish340

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I have a 1975, 225 /6, with a 88 b.h.p. I'd like to remove the engine, and trans in one fell swoop. Because it's designed to lean the way it is, I can't but imagine that it might be a bit unruly to yank, without scratching everything up. I'd love to hear the best ways of attaching chains to this thing so I could pull it up, and out of the engine compartment. I wish I could hand it off to someone who really needed it. It's like brand new. But I don't have the time to deal with shipping, and things. It's a bit big, and awkward. If you know exactly how I can pull this straight up, and out without damaging the pristine under hood condition, please add your insi:finga:ght ?
 

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Why pull it out? Please tell it isn't becoming just another small block car.

Last time I pulled one I removed the intake/exhaust manifolds and used one of the bolt holes near the starter(make sure it goes through block). I think for the front I used a chain bolted to the head at the alternator bracket front bolt location and also bolted to the block at the alternator lower bolt location. Regardless of where you attach it it is a long engine and you really need to have an engine leveler.
 
I forgot to mention it since I live in the rustbelt and isn't reallly possible here but you could (if it is a southern/rust free car) remove the engine through the bottom by dropping out the K-member.
 
There are 2 bosses in the head just above the intake/exhaust manifold assembly. They are tapped for 3/8 nc chaining off there should give you a very straight pull.
 
Drop the trans first, alot easier.
If you are determined to take them apart as a unit get the rear up as high as you can, remove the water pump it will come out with an engine tilter.
 
I pulled the /6 in my Duster out of the top with the transmission attached. You definitely need an engine leveler to do it. Raising the rear of the car would make it easier, although I didn't. I forget which points I used, but as long as you make sure that the chains are tight between the two points and there's no chance of the hook sliding on the chain it should stay pretty uniform. That last bit is key, if you do just use a single length of chain be sure to put a "loop" in it with a bolt to keep the hook from sliding, or the engine will end up on its side.
 
One guy here said that the two bolt holes on the top of the head are for lifting the engine. I know this was mentioned above, but the trick he said is that one lifts totally off the front hole for the engine alone and off the rear hole for the engine & tranny together. I also recall that someone posted photos of factory brackets for lifting. Still, I would use a leveler. Of course, remove the radiator, and if you plan to change the water pump now would be a good time to remove it.
 
I understand about trying to preserve a pristine engine compartment. I'm tempted to recommend removing it from the bottom. It will preserve the dent free, good paint environment you have. What I don't know is what kind of environment (and how much space is available) you're working in.
You won't need to remove the hood. Removing the engine from the bottom means also that it easier to re-attach to the transmission than in the car. It adds, as a minimum, however, the need to "re-clock" the torsion bars, disconnect the steering column, and to check the front end alignment. You'll also need a dolly to hold the engine while the body is being lifted off of the K-frame.
From my experience, the prep time for taking the engine out from underneath was much longer than over the top. Once I got to the actual lifting, the foul language and damage to the engine bay was much less. I also got to leave the hood on the car. The big drawback, as I see it, is that once the t-bars and LCAs are out, the car is immobile.
 
Removing and installing from the bottom is the way it was designed.
 
2 Darts said:
I understand about trying to preserve a pristine engine compartment. I'm tempted to recommend removing it from the bottom. It will preserve the dent free, good paint environment you have. What I don't know is what kind of environment (and how much space is available) you're working in.
You won't need to remove the hood. Removing the engine from the bottom means also that it easier to re-attach to the transmission than in the car. It adds, as a minimum, however, the need to "re-clock" the torsion bars, disconnect the steering column, and to check the front end alignment. You'll also need a dolly to hold the engine while the body is being lifted off of the K-frame.
From my experience, the prep time for taking the engine out from underneath was much longer than over the top. Once I got to the actual lifting, the foul language and damage to the engine bay was much less. I also got to leave the hood on the car. The big drawback, as I see it, is that once the t-bars and LCAs are out, the car is immobile.
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If he is swapping k-members to a small block K he has to remove it anyways so the bottom route would be superior
 
I've always pulled both out from the top with the hood still intact. I find if I take the hood off it always somehow manages to get damaged in some way so I leave it on. It also helps to completely drain the tranny first or you'll get a big mess.
 
I would take the hood off and lean it somewhere on a wall. Take off the trans. cross member. Drain all fluids and take out the radiator, would hate for it to get smashed by the engine and trans. Use the bolt holes stated above. I also hope you have some help on pulling this out. I have never done the k member drop out but it does look pretty simple IF you have the tools.
 
It you are switching the K or doing suspension - drop it out the bottom. Takes some planning, but I did mine myself that way(out and back in)first time no problem.
 
zkx14 said:
It you are switching the K or doing suspension - drop it out the bottom. Takes some planning, but I did mine myself that way(out and back in)first time no problem.
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There's more than one way to skin a cat.

These two old duffers did it the old-fashioned way and had zero problems (I am the idiot in the white coat.)
 

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Bottom is prety easy if you're swapping Ks anywway. But - the engine and trans will come out together, out the top ona chain. Been there- done that - several times.
 
I sure didn't see them two holes you guys are talking about on my 80 truck.

Coming out, I used the mentioned front of the head alternator bracket hole and the chain wrapped around the back of the manifold and bolted.

Going back in I did a three point chain to the other alternator bracket over the top to the bracket near the starter and one of the holes in front of the driver side motor mount. I chained it up, lifted, drop and adjust the hook til it hang pretty close to what I needed.

Those late 70's early 80's slants sure do need another hole in them somewhere near the back of the head.
 
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