Ignition just cuts out.

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barracudadave67

barracudadave67

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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Help i have been stranded twice. Cruising down the road at 2500 rpm, after car gets warm, when all of a sudden igignition just dies, then it is real hard to start, and sometimes it just cranks with no spark. When you do get it started it will only run a short time. When you try to start it and let off the key, it kind of trys to start. I have the FBO ignition on it, and have had no touble for 6 yrs. It is a 69 B-Cuda with a 340. Have tried diferent ECU, coil, and ballast resister, still does it. coud it be the coil pick up in the distributer,??.

Barracudadave67
 
Distributor reluctor gap?

pickup coil?

supply voltage?
 
Reluctor gap is .008
I don,t know what the supply voltage is.
I have not changed the pickup coil
car runs at 15.2 volts at battery

barracudadave67
 
I'm seeing more and more guys with these old girls having troubles with mostly the bulkhead connector. I'd pull it apart, clean, and inspect.

Turn the key to run, engine off. Measure the "dark blue" ignition run supply line, either at the regulator or at the ballast resistor.

Make sure you are getting the bypass circuit. This is the brown wire going to the coil side of the ballast, should be same as battery voltage in "start." You should have at least 10.5V or more at the battery and at the brown (coil +) when cranking.

I had a tune - up guy claim that he thinks some of these pickups are losing magnetism. They aren't that expensive, would not hurt to change the picku and reluctor wheel.

ALSO pull loose the connectors on the regulator, the ECU, and the distributor and work them in/ out to scub them clean. Especially if the dist. connector seems at all loose, I'd pay particular attention to it.
 
It sounds like a possible ignition switch problem. Check the voltage at the coil positive teminal while cranking there should be 12 volts while cranking and about 10 volts after you let off of the key. There are 2 different contacts inside of the ignition switch, one that sends a full 12 volts to the coil positive teminal while cranking and another that sends the 12 volts to the balast resistor to lower the voltage after you let off of the key so you don't fry the points. It seems like when you crank the car the one pair of contacts are bad and when you let off of the key the second contacts are appying the voltage so it tries to start. A volt meter on the + side of the coil will answer the question.

Good Luck!
 
My Duster used to just quit. It had a VERY sketchy connection in the bulkhead connector. I found it when I tore the car down. No problems anymore - I replaced the whole works with a Painless kit and eliminated the bulkhead connector.
 
I had a similar problem that I couldn't find. The car would just Die. I traced the bulkhead and right at the back of the firewall someone had Hacked the wires there. Took awhile to crawl up in there and fix it, but that was the problem. Never happened again.
 
Thanks for the replys guys. I am leaving for Deer hunting in the the AM, so I will not be able to work on it. I will let you all know what happens, and what I find when i get back to work on it.

Fabo Is great.

barracudadave67
 
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