Impact on Crank Bolt?? To Install HB?

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70DusterBob

70DusterBob

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I am working alone, I have no way to hold the engine still while I install the harmonic balancer. Can I use an impact, start out at like 30psi, then when it stop bump it up to 40, then 50? keep bumping it up till whatever it takes to get it to be fully installed? Then how am I to hold the motor still while I torque it anyway?

Up a tree.
 
You can rent a balancer removal and install tool from your local auto parts store. I would not chance using an impact. You could damage something.
 
You are really not supposed to use the bolt to pull the balancer on. Too easy to strip the threads. Best way to install the balancer is with the right tool, a balancer installer/puller.
OTC4531.jpg
 
Yep, you guys are spot on. Use the proper tool and do it right. No hammer and a 2x4 either. You can damage thrust bearings that way. A little Scotchbrite or Emery cloth will clean it nicely and it should slip on easier.
 
Use the proper tool. And by the way tight? You don't know tight till you try and install a after market FluidDampr on! I now hone the bore on them to make them go on easier.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Use the proper tool. And by the way tight? You don't know tight till you try and install a after market FluidDampr on! I now hone the bore on them to make them go on easier.
Click to expand...

You too? I've been usin that trick a long time!
 
I have used vice grips on the flywheel or flexplate, wedged against the block, pretty successfully in this situation. If the engine is in the car, you can do with with the clutch access cover removed.

I also have a couple of longer bolts used to reach well into the threads to get the damper started on; I pull it on a ways with the longest bolt, then go to the middle length bolt to pull it on some more, then put in the standard bolt to get it finally snugged and torqued.

Strive to get to the spec'd 135 ft-lbs of torque. That clamps the damper firmly to the crank, and that is needed for the damper to actually do its job of absorbing the internal crank vibrations.
 
I have always used a slightly longer bolt, jam the flexplate/flywheel with a small piece of wood to hold it.
Caution if aftermarket balancer, they may require honing to fit, throw a mic on it and measure.
 
RustyRatRod said:
You can rent a balancer removal and install tool from your local auto parts store. I would not chance using an impact. You could damage something.
Click to expand...
Thanks Rusty,

I didn't know they made installation kits. I will definitley get one.
 
sireland67 said:
I have always used a slightly longer bolt, jam the flexplate/flywheel with a small piece of wood to hold it.
Caution if aftermarket balancer, they may require honing to fit, throw a mic on it and measure.
Click to expand...
It is a the factory balancer I just took off to change the timing chain.
 
nm9stheham said:
I have used vice grips on the flywheel or flexplate, wedged against the block, pretty successfully in this situation. If the engine is in the car, you can do with with the clutch access cover removed.

I also have a couple of longer bolts used to reach well into the threads to get the damper started on; I pull it on a ways with the longest bolt, then go to the middle length bolt to pull it on some more, then put in the standard bolt to get it finally snugged and torqued.

Strive to get to the spec'd 135 ft-lbs of torque. That clamps the damper firmly to the crank, and that is needed for the damper to actually do its job of absorbing the internal crank vibrations.
Click to expand...

Do you mean that you use longer bolts that go into the crank to give the threads more bite as the dampener goes on? Sounds like that is what you mean. That is a great idea.

My Chilton's says 100 ft lbs on the crank. 135?

Thanks
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Use the proper tool. And by the way tight? You don't know tight till you try and install a after market FluidDampr on! I now hone the bore on them to make them go on easier.
Click to expand...

Please forgive my ignorance, what is a fluid dampr? Does it go in the place of the HB on some engines?
 
toolmanmike said:
Yep, you guys are spot on. Use the proper tool and do it right. No hammer and a 2x4 either. You can damage thrust bearings that way. A little Scotchbrite or Emery cloth will clean it nicely and it should slip on easier.
Click to expand...

Thanks
 
RustyRatRod said:
You can rent a balancer removal and install tool from your local auto parts store. I would not chance using an impact. You could damage something.
Click to expand...

Is the thick spindle looking thing with threads on either end the only part to use when installing?

Thanks
 
Just a stock replacement, just lightly tap the balancer on the crank, there should be enough threads on the stock balancer bolt to catch, and thread it on.
No tools needed.
 
70DusterBob said:
Do you mean that you use longer bolts that go into the crank to give the threads more bite as the dampener goes on? Sounds like that is what you mean. That is a great idea.

My Chilton's says 100 ft lbs on the crank. 135?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Yes, you are correct. I just went to the tractor supply store and bought a couple of longer grade 8's.... though grade 5's ought to be fine to just pull the damper onto the crank.

135 ft-lbs is what I have ('65 Plymouth FSM and other sources like MyMopar). I would take that over the Chilton's numbers. Your life just got 35 ft-lbs harder... LOL
 
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135 lb/ft is factory sb spec go with that. Obviously I've used the tool to remove.
For install I've used the bolt and be careful. No impact.
 
Borrowed the installation tool from AutoZone. Was there getting stuff anyway. Heard bad stories about using the bolt and an impact. Torqued to 135 foot pounds. To each his own.
 
I've seen too many stripped threads in crankshafts to try and ever use the bolt to pull the damper on. What a pain in the neck they are to fix.

To each his own.
 
My balancer puller (Lisle brand) jackscrew is the same thread pitch as the internal threads of the crank. I run a big nut and washer up the jackscrew and thread it into the balancer and crank snout. thread the jackscrew into the crank as far as it will go (about 2 inches) and then tap balancer into keyway and start turning nut. It will press the balancer on without even having to hold the crank steady as you use the 9/16 hex on the end of the jackscrew to hold it steady, wedge it against the framerail if it can reach. trouble with this is you cant get a torque wrench on it unless its an adapted crows foot. 135 ft/lbs is about as tight as I can get it with a big *** 1 1/4 wrench bending down over the radiator.... you can also stuff a rope into a cylinder to stop crank from turning.
As for the aftermarket balancers that are impossible to install without honing: put them in boiling water for a few minutes and hit the crank snout with nut freeze (invert a dust off and spray the white stuff) or an ice pack, The new balancer should slide on much farther than a cold install. You can shrink a cast iron snout .00040 by taking it down from 77F to 32F, goes the other way too by heating the balancer.
 
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The trick I was shown was to set a 100 watt lightbulb against the hub for 30 minutes then do the install. Works like a dream even on a Fluidamper.
 
The install tool is a free rental at most of the parts stores.

To stop the crank from moving when torquing the crank bolt I used a tool I had from a previous vehicle to remove a fan. You could make something similar very easily. I bolted it to the back of the crank and let it rest against one of the attachment posts on the engine stand. Was very easy to get the 135 ft lb this way. This is the tool (e46 Bmw fan removal tool $15-20 online):


299FEE88-92AC-490C-B341-E1CD5BEA66B6.jpeg


The cutout fit perfectly around the diameter between 2 holes on the Mopar crank (example but not Mopar)

579904E9-2F7E-4A4C-8C7D-9D14FD08A180.jpeg
 
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