Initial Torqueflite tear down findings

[440 Mike]

I'm new at this transmission rebuilding, but I finally have time to go through some 727's that I've had laying around for years. The history on this one is a B&M Transkit installed by a local "guru" more years ago than I can remember.

Fluid was burned when drained.
End play before disassembly was at .045
Front clutch clearance was a whopping .175 with burned/warped frictions and steels. (there were 5 frictions, I think part of the transkit)
Notice that the clutch springs were laid over, not good:

This is weird - the springs in the old Transkit are much taller than some new replacements that I have:

On to the rear clutch. Clearance measured at .048

More to come.

 

[71Demon528]

Jeez, what a mess.
I’m sure you’ll get er fixed up with some proper clearances, the correct high gear drum springs, amongst other things. Is this going in a street car?

 

[1WildRT]

I bought a B$M Transkit one time back in the eighties... I wasn't impressed with the quality & I went back to using the OE Mopar kit

 

[71Demon528]

I bought a B$M Transkit one time back in the eighties... I wasn't impressed with the quality & I went back to using the OE Mopar kit

I believe it!

 

[440 Mike]

Jeez, what a mess.
I’m sure you’ll get er fixed up with some proper clearances, the correct high gear drum springs, amongst other things. Is this going in a street car?

About 75% street 25% strip.

I stacked up 4 spare good steels, 4 frictions, the stock .060 snap ring and came up with .065 on the front clutch. I think I'll go with that.

 

[440 Mike]

I bought a B$M Transkit one time back in the eighties... I wasn't impressed with the quality & I went back to using the OE Mopar kit

This was from the 80's as well. I haven't got to the valve body yet, but I'm sure it's a dandy too!

 

[440 Mike]

Ok, the front frictions measured an average of .040, some cupped and burnt steels:

Lets see, 5 frictions at .060 apiece when new, lost .020 each................so .175 - .100 = .075 clearance when originally assembled.

 

[440 Mike]

The rear clutch was much better. Frictions averaged .0595, steels were mint:

 

[440 Mike]

Can anyone tell what lever ratio I have? The only marking is 1000022.

 

[VOETOM]

Guessing it may be a 5.0 from BM???

 

[440 Mike]

I better change that lever if it's a 5.0

 

[440 Mike]

Well this is a disappointment. I'd like to have tried this converter for street use but the snout has a lot of wear. Too bad, because the old Fairbanks probably isn't worth getting repaired. I'll replace the pump bushing with a babbitt one:

 

[71Demon528]

Well this is a disappointment. I'd like to have tried this converter for street use but the snout has a lot of wear. Too bad, because the old Fairbanks probably isn't worth getting repaired. I'll replace the pump bushing with a babbitt one:

View attachment 1716242757View attachment 1716242759

That’s a shame. Converters aren’t cheap. But yes there is a lot of wear on that snout.

Do you plan to just rebuild the valve body and put it back in service?

 

[440 Mike]

I'll take the vb apart and see what kind of mods were done. Not sure if the separator plate was modified or the B&M came with it's own plate. I might be better off if I can scrounge up a stock valve body.

 

[71Demon528]

I'll take the vb apart and see what kind of mods were done. Not sure if the separator plate was modified or the B&M came with it's own plate. I might be better off if I can scrounge up a stock valve body.

Gotcha. Being that you are sticking with a shift kit valve body, I would probably go 3.8 or 4.2 second gear lever if you think you have the 5.0, coupled with a late model kickdown servo (single spring 5/8” rod), heavy duty band strut, and a solid kickdown band. Just my own personal thoughts since you do have some intention of racing. You probably already have the correct servo and possibly a solid band.

 

[440 Mike]

I did find a 3.8 that I can use.

 

[qkcuda]

I recently had my torque convertor rebuilt and the fellow said they had problems sourcing "wide ring gear" cores. It might be worth rebuilding, or selling for a core.

 

[mopowers]

Anyone know what a converter shop charges to replace a scored hub? I wonder if they make repair sleeves for them like for harmonic balancers.

 

[440 Mike]

There are sleeves available, but I've never heard if they worked well or not.

 

[Charrlie_S]

Not recently, but I have had several converters repaired with a new pump drive. Used to have a problem (years ago) with the drive slot developing a crack.

 

[Bewy]

Burned clutch plates: I would be checking the clutch piston seals to see if they were damaged during installation [ nicks, cuts, rolled over ]...or if they have gone hard. Gone hard could be a before or after event.

 

[440 Mike]

Burned clutch plates: I would be checking the clutch piston seals to see if they were damaged during installation [ nicks, cuts, rolled over ]...or if they have gone hard. Gone hard could be a before or after event.

seals were all good, but will be replaced anyway. Note that the B&M clutch springs were found to be laid over in disassembly. I'm thinking that spring pressure was next to nothing.