Injection system

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slowdown

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So I've been looking on summits an jets sites at a retard set up for boost, but they all seem to say they need to be ran with msd ignition. Am I reading this wrong? I have the mp ignition an the orange box, will I have to switch ignitions to mad to get a retard system to work?
I've also been looking at the 1stage for low boost water methenal injection kit in case I have to switch. I'm only going to be running 5lbs boost but my comp may be a tad bit high. 9.5 maybe.
 
Okay so you have the mp box same as a msd and the Orange box? If your running the mp box same as a msd then the Orange box isn't even needed. If your on just a factory ignition system it is always better to have the hotter spark especially in boosted engines, yes 5lbs isn't that much which is a good thing since your comp is a tad higher not much. The 9.5 comp is fine for boost you just can't go as high as say a 8.5:1 but it's a toss up, I knew guys on their srt4 with big turbo that ran 10:1 comp and kept boost down low and make good power or you can run lower comp 8:1, 8.5:1, 9:1 and go higher boost but make about the same power it just boils down to the tune. Meth is always a good thing keeps the intake charge and combustion chamber cooler thus making a little more power plus it takes your pump gas say 91 octane and makes it 116 which again better for boosted applications as well.
 
Okay so you have the mp box same as a msd and the Orange box? If your running the mp box same as a msd then the Orange box isn't even needed. If your on just a factory ignition system it is always better to have the hotter spark especially in boosted engines, yes 5lbs isn't that much which is a good thing since your comp is a tad higher not much. The 9.5 comp is fine for boost you just can't go as high as say a 8.5:1 but it's a toss up, I knew guys on their srt4 with big turbo that ran 10:1 comp and kept boost down low and make good power or you can run lower comp 8:1, 8.5:1, 9:1 and go higher boost but make about the same power it just boils down to the tune. Meth is always a good thing keeps the intake charge and combustion chamber cooler thus making a little more power plus it takes your pump gas say 91 octane and makes it 116 which again better for boosted applications as well.
Yeah I meant mp distributor and orange box sorry. And I was typing on a little phone so I could'nt really read what I was writing. Thanks for the reply. So I'm thinking by your reply the meth/water injection is the way to go for now. I have'nt got it up and running yet as the super charger is still in transit according to the ups tracker. But I am hopeing to get this thing up and running without detenatioin and hopefully without problems.. Thank You.
 
Just checked out the snow performance stage one injection system on the jegs site. I think i will order this one tomarrow. The charger may show up before the injection system, do you think I'll be alright getting it on and fire it up before I install the snow kit? Or should I just wait till everything shows up and install it all at once?
 
Just checked out the snow performance stage one injection system on the jegs site. I think i will order this one tomarrow. The charger may show up before the injection system, do you think I'll be alright getting it on and fire it up before I install the snow kit? Or should I just wait till everything shows up and install it all at once?

II think that any kind of intercooling is waste of time and money at 5 pounds of boost. It's generally accepted that under ten pounds, no intercooling is needed.

Check it out; I didn't make this up...
 
So I've been looking on summits an jets sites at a retard set up for boost, but they all seem to say they need to be ran with msd ignition. Am I reading this wrong? I have the mp ignition an the orange box, will I have to switch ignitions to mad to get a retard system to work?
I've also been looking at the 1stage for low boost water methenal injection kit in case I have to switch. I'm only going to be running 5lbs boost but my comp may be a tad bit high. 9.5 maybe.

THE msd BOOSTMASTER is one-piece stand-alone unit that does a couple of things; it replaces your orange/chrome box (is an gnition module) entirely, monitors your boost and retards your timing 1,2, or 3 degrees for every pound of boost it "sees" (the amount per pound of which is adjustable from the cockpit.) Up to a total retard of 15 degrees. You just have to buy a coil.

I use one on my Vortech-blown street-driven 360 and it works well.

Hope this helps.
 
II think that any kind of intercooling is waste of time and money at 5 pounds of boost. It's generally accepted that under ten pounds, no intercooling is needed.

Check it out; I didn't make this up...
I was thinking more along the lines of the 9.5 compression and maybe upping the timing later. I agree 5 lbs don't seem like much, but some day more maybe.
 
The OP is running a Roots blower with a cam that has 110LSA. The overlap should keep the combustion chambers cool.
At 5PSI start tuning with the carb/ ignition you have. Keep the total timing at 28° for a safe start.
I'd bump the timing up to 30 or 32° max in small increments, listening for knock under load.
Learn how to tune the carb (idle, cruise, WOT) before adding W/M injection. Keep it simple.
With your 3.55 rear gears, you will be in and out of boost and I can't imagine you being under boost for extended periods of time.
 
The OP is running a Roots blower with a cam that has 110LSA. The overlap should keep the combustion chambers cool.
At 5PSI start tuning with the carb/ ignition you have. Keep the total timing at 28° for a safe start.
I'd bump the timing up to 30 or 32° max in small increments, listening for knock under load.
Learn how to tune the carb (idle, cruise, WOT) before adding W/M injection. Keep it simple.
With your 3.55 rear gears, you will be in and out of boost and I can't imagine you being under boost for extended periods of time.
Thanks.
 
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