Intake/Exhaust removal

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Dizzydean

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Okay I need a little assistance here. I have all the bolts off except the main PITA under the exhaust. I am trying to get two apart seperate. Is this possible or do I need the one remaining off. Im thinking its holding everything on but....Appreciate any help with this.:read2:
 
it can be kinda fun to split them on the car but dont forget... u need to assemble them off the car so you can make sure they are straight...
 
Yeah I only started this because the exhaust cracked and the front half is completely off but still cant get to that last nut. Any tricks Im missing? Thanks Guys
 
Are you talking about getting the nut off the head studs that are tucked way under there? You don't need any special tools, just a ratchet and extension. If you can't see it, stick your hand in there and feel it so you get an idea where it is. Then feel around with the socket on the extension until you feel it hook.
 
Thats the one. I thought if the 1/2 the exhaust was gone since it was cracked and pretty much fell off during this time it would all come off. Wrong :munky2: It is stil hard to get to. Is the last stander holding both together under there? I tried a socket and ext first time at this and couldnt get any leverage. I may try some wobbleys and a universal socket next. Figured with half a monifold it would half as difficult not twice. :cheers: Of well I finally have my 14 yo son helping so its a learning time for us both.:read2:
 
I hope you shot it down with blaster liquid wrench or something, I would hate to see you post that the stud broke . here is a picture of the tuff ones to get to, and yes The intake and exhaust will need to come off, some time, because a new gasket will need to go on.

Hope this helps, I used a peace of stainless steel as a mirror to take the last picture
 

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A 1/2" deep 6 point on a long extension should be all you need to get to the center nuts.
A good quality thin wall socket is the key. Run a search for past threads on the subject for the procedure to reinstall everything. It's very important to follow it precisely or you'll crack another one in short order.
 
Thanks for all the help and advice. The reason I didnt want to do this is there is a broken stud already then the manifold developed a crack then my son all of a sudden is asking what does the car need to get it going?? So here we go. At least the broken stud is the first and easiest to get to.
 
Dizzydean said:
Thanks for all the help and advice. The reason I didnt want to do this is there is a broken stud already then the manifold developed a crack then my son all of a sudden is asking what does the car need to get it going?? So here we go. At least the broken stud is the first and easiest to get to.
Click to expand...
Keep in mind that the stud goes into the coolant passage so you'll want to drain down the system first.
 
Thanks for that Mark. I burned up a couple drill bits trying to get a hole started. Off to work out of town for the week but my son did help get the heater cables and tail lights replaced and helped to start the drilling.
 
Sharpen that bit or get a new one and turn it real slow with lots of cutting oil.
 
Well i took a while but the project is almost complete. New question the exhaust I got is a lot newer than my 67 was and has the ribs and flapper still working on it not sure what year it is but is this going to cause any exhaust pipe problems? Seems like the very center bottom stud is even harder to get to now with that flap in the way. We are still working on that one saving the best for last. Everything is just snugged down for now. Thanks again for all the help cant wait to install the new motor.
 
In case any of the studs/bolts that go into the water jacket leak when you start the car. get a tube of the silver powdered stop leak from any parts store and pour a little into the radiator when you start it up. Run it for 30 - 40 minutes and it will stop the leaking through the threads that go to the water jacket. Works for me on small blocks.
 
Thanks KrazyKuda I will keep that in mind. Just picked up the gaskets for the carb & exhaust and this weekend we get the replacement radiator mines so plugged I can't even see through the cores looking in. Hmmm no wonder it heats up real fast
 
A swivel on a 1/4 drive will reach and get to the one you are talking about, these nuts are only 35 inch lbs NOT foot lbs so be carfull putting them back on.
I will look that up and be back here tomorow, I had to do this not long ago and not sure how tight and the patern to put every thing back on.
A 1/4 inch drive is the way to go :)
 
Thanks Mike were already past that. I tried the torque wrench and it seemed like it as to much so I stopped short. I noticed the book doesn't show a pattern for tightening. Well see what happens after it runs a while. Anything should be better than a leak at the stud and cracked exhaust. Might even smell better :headbang::thumbup:
 
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