Intake gasket Help

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73_Dart

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Okay, so i have a 318 that I am swapping a 4bbl intake and carb onto. I have a set of gaskets from my brothers rebuild kit for the motor, but wasnt sure whether or not to use them. They are the metal ones for where the intake meets the head, and cork for the front and back of the intake.

I didnt know whether to use them, or if I should just use some RTV silicone to seal it all up..

Give me your guys opinions on what to do..
 
Make sure the metal ones are correct and use them, but put a thin bead of RTV around the water/coolant passages on both the heads and the intake. Also its personal preference as to whether to use the cork or not. If you dont use it, put a good amt of RTV on and make sure that it will squish down when you bolt down the intake. Oh ya instead of RTV I would use "The Right Stuff"...but its personal preference...heres a link for the goop
http://www.permatex.com/brand_right_stuff.htm
 
felpro 1213 gasket use the cork if you know how to install them properly if not use a good rtv silicone many will argue to use the cork but most will say to use rtv just whatever you like jmo
 
If you're running a stock cast iron intake, the metal ones will work good. I fit's aluminum, don't use metal gaskets. Use the composition style. Toss the end seals in favor of a bead of high temp silicone.
 
I am going to be using an aluminum edelbrock performer intake. I was asking cause I wanted to see what others liked because I have never done this before.
 
I'm not to sure it's a personal preference to use the cork or not.
I set the intake on dry without the cork and it got apparent really quickly that there was not enough clearance for the cork.
Bolt holes were way off, so I used silicone (which I intended to do anyway)

I used the metal intake gaskets with a little red RTV arounf ALL sealing area's
Intake ports, water jaket ports and bolt holes with and aluminum eddie.
Dry as a bone and zero leaks of any kind.

But them I am the RTV master. :)
 
dont forget to take out the old intake locating pins out of the block. i use the end gaskets on some and not on others, with no real preference
 
73AbodEE said:
i use the end gaskets on some and not on others, with no real preference
Click to expand...

It will NEVER even get damp on the outside like cork does.
I like the dry as a bone forever part.
I hate cork for anything because of that.
 
Im pretty sure I am going to just use permatex for the intake. I hope to get it all put together today sometime, depending on time.
 
The metal and cork is what the factory used. It works fine when everything is clean as new. If the heads and intake surfaces are clean and flat, no problem.
Oil will migrate through the cork very slowly. The cork blows out if the pcv system gets clogged. Silicone will blow out too if conditions are right but at least it doesn't get saturated and look bad. :)
I use the Felpro print-a-seal gaskets and silicone when working under the hood. On a motor stand I would use the steel mainly because they are in the rebuild kit :)
 
Well I got the intake put on, and I ended up not using the cork end seals. I used the right stuff sealant. And apparently something went wrong on the back of the intake and it didnt seal right or something.. Because I am sucking air in.

Now my problem is.. I cant get the intake back off. I have all the bolts out and everything, but I cant get the sealant to let loose. Anyone have any ideas how to get this thing off now so I can reseal it?
 
Gently pry it up from the corners, GENTLY, it will come eventually, Start at one corner and work across the front to the other corner. It helps if you have something to wedge under it as it moves up so you can get a better bite on it. I just pulled mine a couple of weeks ago and could not believe how stuck it was.

Is it a cast intake or aluminum?
 
73AbodEE said:
dont forget to take out the old intake locating pins out of the block. i use the end gaskets on some and not on others, with no real preference
Click to expand...

I warped my first LD 340 by not removing the locating pins,, and have seen several aluminum manifolds with the marks of said pins... hope you remembered to take them out..
 
I have not figured out why some put them in and some don't. My Weiand 8007 had the pin locator dimples in it.
 
Yes, I took out the pins.

I tried to pry on the corners. It would not give at all on any of the corners. It is an aluminum intake.
 
73_Dart said:
Yes, I took out the pins.

I tried to pry on the corners. It would not give at all on any of the corners. It is an aluminum intake.
Click to expand...


It may require a small pry bar, wedge type tool and a hammer, tap the bar gently under it. If and when it starts to move stick something under it to hold it and move the tool over and repeat process.

Take your time, it will come off. Since it's aluminum I would start on the bottom in front right where it starts to bend up to mate to the head. You will want to be careful so you don't take an ear of the head surface. Start from the bottom, the flat area in the front move side to side.
 
Do not use the top of the timing cover as a floor for your pry bar. Thats how the timing covers get cracked on the top. The aluminum is quite thin in the flat area.
 
Try using Mopar Performance intake gasket set. They are a composition gasket with foam rubber end rails. Use Right Stuff to glue the end seals to the block and a little dab in the corners but dry on top. I've never had good luck with silicone alone for end rail sealing long term, but these things stay dry forever.
 
I ended up getting it loose. It was interesting.. I ended up hooking my engine hoist up to it, and lifting it off. I had the car about 8 inches in the air, and I began pushing down on the car. It finally came loose.

Before that I had tried just about everything. I could not get it to let loose by prying or anything that was suggested.
 
WHAT???????
Holy cow was it put on with super glue or somthing?
I have never seen one that hard to pull loose.
 
73_Dart said:
I ended up getting it loose. It was interesting.. I ended up hooking my engine hoist up to it, and lifting it off. I had the car about 8 inches in the air, and I began pushing down on the car. It finally came loose.

Before that I had tried just about everything. I could not get it to let loose by prying or anything that was suggested.
Click to expand...


Funny you say that, I had that thought when posting last night.
 
It was put on with permatex "the right stuff" I have never had one that hard to pull either!!

I had the engine hoist idea last night, but was too lazy to pull my hoist around to my garage.
 
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