intake manifold gasket and installation

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i did only use silcone on the ends where the cork goes, and i let it sit for 18 hours before firing the engine, i drove it around for about half hour and checked the ends and there was no leaks anywhere. The second time around i used a healthy bead of ultra black permatex front and back, used a line as big as my pinky finger front and back and put an extra dab of rtv in the corners.
Then i also used edelbrock gasgacinch on the heads after i cleaned them and then i used it on the head side of the gaskets and on the intake side of the gasket and i used the gasgacinch on the intake too, and i used all brand new bolts and torqued it to 30 ft lbs, no more studs to break, and i got both broken studs out with an easy out. I can tell you that my vaccum leak was the cause of all my problems, that vaccum leak was why i was fouling plugs and it is why i coul never get it tuned.
I set my initial timing at 16 degrees and my total timing at 34 degrees and i have an additional 10 degrees of timing at idle from my vaccum advance on manifold vaccum, so i have 26 degrees of timing at idle and it idles smooth as glass. And it runs so much better, crusing down the highway i can tell a tramendous difference in how smooth it cruises down the road. I can for sure say that vaccum leaks cause all hell to break loose and that it is impossible to tune an engine with a vaccum leak.
 
Not trying to hijack the tread, but today I installed my intake(stock 2 barrel on 273)and used the cork end gaskets and after it was installed I noticed that the front cork extends past the edge of the intake about 1/4 inch or so is this right, or did I do something wrong, it was on the locating pin and was in the head gasket tabs. If this is right is there anything wrong with trimming it back a little?
thanks
 
This is coming from my own experience with installing an Edelbrock air-gap intake on my magnum. At first I thought I was supposed to use a nice bead of silicone on the front and rear rails but there is a big gap between the intake and block. What I wound up finding out is that the stock type seals for the beer barrel intake are required, so I bought a complete intake kit for a magnum engine that came with the intake to head gaskets, end rail gaskets, and the plenum gasket for the stock intake. I used The Right Stuff on the intake to head gaskets (NOT recommended, just use Ultra Black), and a dab of Ultra Black rtv on the edges of the end rail gaskets. Sealed up no problem.


This is the gasket set I used.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-ms953921/overview/make/dodge
 
This is the instructions I use from summit.

[ame]http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/edl-intakes2.pdf[/ame]
 
Having fought small block intake leaks since 1970, I came up with this. Scrape , clean with acetone. Head side- spray coppercoat runners, right stuff around water passages. cork vs sealer= cork with right stuff, or just right Stuff, thicker than you want ( have pulled pieces of it from oil pump screen not cured upon fire-up); watch the dowels with alum intake, remove ,or drill intake.

Right stuff at corners @ heads. Throw all that SILLYCONE in the trash. Cure 24 hours. When I was young, dealership was clean and glob permatex (in and out).

Torque to 35? some bolts will break (and never do that too the rocker shaft). An 8" long wrench with one hand; 3/8 ratchet, as stated earlier. While the intake is off, and found to be true, with flat edges; replace the heater hose nipples; easier on the bench.
 
I thought the magnum intake bolt torque was around 12 ft pounds, no wonder you are breaking studs. Over torqing bolts is a good way to damage expensive parts. :eek:ops:
 
i was told the torque on intake manifold bolts bwas 20 to 30 ft lbs, 12 seems extremely low?
 
Don't know which intake you're using. I've had problems with Edelbrock manifolds sealing properly. I used a thick, soft gasket at the head and a cork gasket on the ends of the block, red RTV applied judiciously. The thin metal intake gaskets that typically come in re-build kits would not let the Eddie seal up properly.
 
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