Is this a thrust button and can it be removed?

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jawbone

jawbone

Cuda_queer
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Hi FABO. It's me again. Engine is in. Working on replacement of 7 1/4 with 8 3/4. Have a narrowed housing and axles with green bearings from Moser engineering. Comments came up regarding thrust button or thrust block removal. Research tells me the cone style sure grip, which I have, does not use a thrust button. If that's the case, what am I looking at and can it be removed. I assume it's used to help set the axle preload as performed on passenger side. Will this item interfere with the new axle install? Would like to remove it and have tried but unsuccessful. Appears it would just fall out. Does anyone have any suggestions?
 
On Cone type you have to split the cases on the suregrip and Remove pin the thrust button slides off. Round button and pin circled in Red.
Pic borrowed from How To Recondition a Sure Grip Cone







1715788046627.png
 
when switching to large bolt pattern axles in a stock abody housing and using moser axles i never hat to touch the button. not sure since your housing has been narrowed. may be best to call moser.
 
abodyjoe said:
when switching to large bolt pattern axles in a stock abody housing and using moser axles i never hat to touch the button. not sure since your housing has been narrowed. may be best to call moser.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your suggestion.
 
I pulled my axles and went green bearings. A year later my rearend was making some grinding and other noise. Well this is what happened.
Quoted from another article.
Upon axle removal the button will get stuck on the axle shaft end with a little film of gear oil and when you pull the axle out it will surely fall off and land into the bottom of the rear end housing as the axle end clears the spline.

Rear gears were all chipped up. Found the 3 button pieces in the housing. Changed my gears and luckily no other damage.
1715793041768.png
 
Kendog 170 said:
I pulled my axles and went green bearings. A year later my rearend was making some grinding and other noise. Well this is what happened.
Quoted from another article.
Upon axle removal the button will get stuck on the axle shaft end with a little film of gear oil and when you pull the axle out it will surely fall off and land into the bottom of the rear end housing as the axle end clears the spline.

Rear gears were all chipped up. Found the 3 button pieces in the housing. Changed my gears and luckily no other damage.
View attachment 1716250141
Click to expand...
Interesting to here and sorry it happened. I cannot draw mine out even with a very strong magnet. Was yours a cone sure grip, disk or open style?
 
Kendog 170 said:
I pulled my axles and went green bearings. A year later my rearend was making some grinding and other noise. Well this is what happened.
Quoted from another article.
Upon axle removal the button will get stuck on the axle shaft end with a little film of gear oil and when you pull the axle out it will surely fall off and land into the bottom of the rear end housing as the axle end clears the spline.

Rear gears were all chipped up. Found the 3 button pieces in the housing. Changed my gears and luckily no other damage.
View attachment 1716250141
Click to expand...
This pics shows the pin
 
Just slide the axles into the empty banjo, and snug them down with a couple of bolts. Then, measure the distance between the axles on the splined ends. If it is less than the dimension of the spacer, then you have three options.
Eliminate the spacer, or
Shorten the axles, or
Do what I did; fabricate a spacer or two, to install between the backing plates and the flanges. Now you can use the adjuster again.
 
Don’t understand why anyone would put “green” bearings in their car.
Overall unreliable POS.
The factory bearings are WAY better.

A buddy had fairly new ones and one let go on the hiway while we were going to a car show 90 miles away.
Blew gear oil all over the entire back end of his car and that side brakes were soaked.
Then it cost him $300 to get his car hauled back home.

I tried to tell him when he was putting the car together, but all the green bearings hype got too him already.

If you have floating caliper type brakes you can use factory bearings and end play adjuster.
 
Big.J.007 said:
This is only applicable to clutch type powr lok sure grips.. Does yours have springs? if so its a cone type..
Click to expand...
I have cone style sure grip. Green bearings are fixed thus if axle too long, will hit thrust spacer. Only way to get it out, that I know of, is to disassemble SG. Don't want to find out after everything installed.
 
Last edited:
TrailBeast said:
Don’t understand why anyone would put “green” bearings in their car.
Overall unreliable POS.
The factory bearings are WAY better.

A buddy had fairly new ones and one let go on the hiway while we were going to a car show 90 miles away.
Blew gear oil all over the entire back end of his car and that side brakes were soaked.
Then it cost him $300 to get his car hauled back home.

I tried to tell him when he was putting the car together, but all the green bearings hype got too him already.

If you have floating caliper type brakes you can use factory bearings and end play adjuster.
Click to expand...
I won't disagree with you. I wanted to keep my old style tapered bearing setup. Was lead down the garden path by Moser to use green bearings. The axles I provided could not be shortened and re-splined. If I have a hint of something going wrong, it's $500 for another set of axles that will accept the tapered bearings.
 
jawbone said:
I won't disagree with you. I wanted to keep my old style tapered bearing setup. Was lead down the garden path by Moser to use green bearings. The axles I provided could not be shortened and re-splined. If I have a hint of something going wrong, it's $500 for another set of axles that will accept the tapered bearings.
Click to expand...

Have you seen Chris Birdsong’s video on green bearings?
He REALLY hates them.

Junkerup on YouTube.

Found it.

 
TrailBeast said:
Have you seen Chris Birdsong’s video on green bearings?
He REALLY hates them.

Junkerup on YouTube.

Found it.

Click to expand...



bla bla bla... i've run them for many years and have never had an issue. hell the set i took out of the dart a couple years ago were in the rear since the mid 90's and are still fine.

as far as birdsong goes, you don't know what the hell he has done with things.. he does some real hach **** at times.

that bullshit is so over blown.. probably as bad as the B,F,J,M,R body spindle debate was over tthe years.
 
abodyjoe said:
bla bla bla... i've run them for many years and have never had an issue. hell the set i took out of the dart a couple years ago were in the rear since the mid 90's and are still fine.

as far as birdsong goes, you don't know what the hell he has done with things.. he does some real hach **** at times.

that bullshit is so over blown.. probably as bad as the B,F,J,M,R body spindle debate was over tthe years.
Click to expand...

Is it possible that the bearings you got years ago were better quality?
Maybe.

I take all the YouTubers with a grain of salt, and some are so hack I have to change the channel, so please don’t think I fall for everything anyone else says or does.
Speaking from first hand knowledge on the bearings but it’s great that you don’t have problems with them.

Oh, and the main point of posting Birdsongs video was that he hates them so much it was funny how passionate he was about it.
 
TrailBeast said:
Oh, and the main point of posting Birdsongs video was that he hates them so much it was funny how passionate he was about it.
Click to expand...

he has to have a rant every so often to up his views. did you see the one on aftermarket parts? he does some cool **** and has some knowlege but does some real hack **** too..
 
Here we go again.

While I personally prefer to use tapered bearings, there’s nothing wrong with the green style bearings. There are two versions, and the earlier version is actually more problematic. @DoctorDiff covers this on his website

Why Green Bearings? - Quality Body Shop Drivetrain

Ultimately there are millions of cars on the road with green style bearings.

As for the E-body axles, they can’t be re-splined to A-body width. That’s because E body axles are not a continuous diameter from flange to spline, there’s an area that’s stepped down that then steps back up for the splines. If you shorten them to A body length it puts the splines in the stepped down section.

C-body and truck axles are what you need to have cut down and re-splined if that’s your goal. Or just buy new axles from DoctorDiff for not that much more money.
 
abodyjoe said:
he has to have a rant every so often to up his views. did you see the one on aftermarket parts? he does some cool **** and has some knowlege but does some real hack **** too..
Click to expand...

Yea, I saw that video.
The thing is, if I was working with some of the stuff he does I would hack some of it too.
 
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