Issue with lower rad hose rubbing on suspension

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phaelax

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I have a 440 with a 26" radiator and the lower hose rubs on the end of the bar (see pic). Years back, I wrapped that section of hose with fiberfix (to protect the hose, not patch a hole) and kinda forgot about it until now. Looks like it's worn through that now. Has anyone else run into this before? Suggestions on how to fix this going forward?

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It looks like your aftermarket radiator has the hose nipple too far outboard; but then, I don't precisely know where the factory BB radiator nipple is for comparison. But I used to have an A-body 383 radiator in my SB Barracuda, and the hose definitely did not rub the strut rod. It DID rub the ADDCO sway bar bracket which was mounted to the front of the k-frame, so I think that neck was maybe 3 inches toward the center. I did not have the oil filter to contend with, either.

My only suggestion would be to have someone weld on a new neck that had a tight 90º turn so it faced more or less straight up (slightly tilted toward the center and back). Then you would cut the hose slightly shorter, above the last bend — the vertical part would then be clear of the strut.
 
Fab up a stainless tube to use as your lower rad hose. Find a rad hose at the parts store that has a couple ends on it you can use to connect the stainless tube to the rad/wp housing.
 
Just cut 1.5" off the hose at the rad, that will pull it forward away from the K-member, it will still rub on the filter but it is round no sharp edges.
 
I would just cut the tip of the strut rod off with a whiz wheel. One and done.
 
I would ditch the radiator and get a OEM style with all the parts in the right places.

The bottom tube looks 2 inches too far to the drivers side. My bet is you are using a 26 rad that may not have been designed for your application.
 
I would ditch the radiator and get a OEM style with all the parts in the right places.

The bottom tube looks 2 inches too far to the drivers side. My bet is you are using a 26 rad that may not have been designed for your application.

I agree, that's the best way, but it's in there now. lol
 
Well that might be an option to replace the radiator. It's possible it's leaking, I'm not entirely sure yet. Car has been overheating and I saw it leaking from somewhere along the bottom, but that could be fluid that pushed out the top and ran down. When I stopped the car it was whistling like a tea kettle. I even added an overflow tank last year.
 
Sounds like your cooling system needs a good once-over.

Be sure all these parts are matched to AC or HD cooling
  1. Water pump
  2. Fan
  3. Pulleys
  4. Thermostat
  5. Shroud
  6. Rad cap (correct pressure)
Be sure you have all the air out of the system.
 
A couple years ago, the engine was replaced. I know the radiator was kept, but as far as water pump and everything else I can't remember if we took it off the old engine or not. So I'm not sure what the system is made up of. I do know the fan was replace during the engine swap. I'm thinking of just redoing the whole cooling system. Might sound like using a sledge to hit thumbtack, but this car has always ran too hot for my liking. Is it worth going to an electric fan?
 
Well that's a definite answer if I ever heard one! What's the issue with going electric on it?
 
Well that's a definite answer if I ever heard one! What's the issue with going electric on it?
The other issue is you are using a flex fan. That is a no-no, and will NOT provide enuf cooling. They have also been known to fail and cause injury/damage. Do what Dana67Dart said above!
 
Easy. Just move the radiator as far to the passenger side as possible. I have a 26 inch cold case and mine fits well. I did trim the edge of the flange and shroud a bit ( maybe 1/4") to line up holes.. I use the factory shroud and mechanical fan. Keeps it cool.
 
What's the issue with going electric on it?
Every " my engine is overheating" post starts with. "I just installed an aluminum wooopdedo radiator and electric fans"

What's wrong...

  1. Our cars were not designed to carry the load of proper sized electric fans
  2. Most aftermarket shrouds for electric fans block 1/2 to 1 /4 of the airflow through the radiator.
  3. The space between the wooopdedo AL radiator is typically too small for the fans to fit well.
  4. The engineers at Chrysler spent countless hours designing a cooling system that would keep a 440 in a dart from boiling over in most conditions. I think that know more than the electric fan sellers out there
  5. The system needs to be matched. Oddly the HP / AC cooling in some engines have fewer vaines on their impeller and the pulley ratios are different than the stock cooling
I could go on but I can only take so much flack at a time ( you will see...)
 
I have a 440 with a 26" radiator and the lower hose rubs on the end of the bar (see pic). Years back, I wrapped that section of hose with fiberfix (to protect the hose, not patch a hole) and kinda forgot about it until now. Looks like it's worn through that now. Has anyone else run into this before? Suggestions on how to fix this going forward?

View attachment 1715775350
Your lower hose attachment appears to be much lower than mine at the radiator.
On my 75 Dart Sport with BeCool aluminum radiator and a big block with left side water pump inlet the hose would barely touch the strut rod when the front end was raised but would barely clear it at normal ride height. My lower hose is a little more above the strut rod and would get touched from underneath. Current engine in picture will be a small block 360, but lower hose is in the same spot for reference.
AEAA4672-766F-46CB-84B0-4257554544D7.jpeg
 
cut 2" off pump side and stretch hose off that interference point. Then make a shroud. Let that fan pull through 100% of the rad. If you go electric get the Taurus style double fan and shroud assembly. It will cover entire rad and pull with 1 or both fans*. Wire it up directly to battery via a 50A relay as it pulls huge amps on startup, run the relay voltage to a cheap *Hayden rad thermoswitch so its not on while your cranking.
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Wire it up directly to battery via a 50A relay as it pulls huge amps
I learned a thing or two in a recent post about headlight relay and why it is better to come off the alternator post for high current devices. By going off the alternator post 99% of the time no current to the high current device is running through the cars OE wiring. If you go off the battery the alternator will have to generate enough amps to power the fan and keep the batt charged and all that current had to go through the cars wiring ammeter, bulkhead connector etc.
 
Move the radiator if possible, adjust the hose lengths, pad the rod end with a length of heater hose...
 
Your lower hose attachment appears to be much lower than mine at the radiator.
On my 75 Dart Sport with BeCool aluminum radiator and a big block with left side water pump inlet the hose would barely touch the strut rod when the front end was raised but would barely clear it at normal ride height. My lower hose is a little more above the strut rod and would get touched from underneath. Current engine in picture will be a small block 360, but lower hose is in the same spot for reference.View attachment 1715776326
your rad' looks to be crossflow so the hose can attach further up the tank. the op's rad is top an bottom tanks so the hose has to attach at the 'bottom'.
 
Get a early 70 water pump housing with the lower hose on the right side. Then get a radiator with the lower hose on the right side. Opens up a lot of room.
 
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