Jeff's 318 Thread

[MrJLR]

Well.....I've started.....got the hood off the car and started underneath disconnecting exhaust, starter wires, torque convertor etc.....

If Monday doesn't kick my *** too much I'm gonna drain and pull the radiator and get moving on the top.
Should do the lift in a day or so!



Reason is to add a little giddy-up and fix all the annoying leaks. Also I'll install my Doug's headers and off to the exhaust shop.

Plans are:

Carb
Intake
Cam & lifters
Core the radiator
Exhaust
Fuel pump
Oil pump
Gaskets and front and rear seals

Oh....and clean and paint....

Car:
1968 Barracuda Notchback
318
727
3:55 rear (brand new)
No AC (at the moment!)
Power steering
Manual brakes

I am going to pull the heads and change the head gaskets....

So.....thoughts, comments, suggestions?

Big fun coming my way!!!!!

:coffee2:

 

[krazykuda]

I recommend using a "refresh kit" from Mancini.

Kits A or B are basic with just main & rod bearings, complete gasket kit, and rings for $200. For $5 more kit B has moly rings vs kit A with cast iron rings...

You can get a federal mogul kit or michigan engine kit...

http://www.manciniracing.com/enrebkit.html

 

[MrJLR]

I recommend using a "refresh kit" from Mancini.

Kits A or B are basic with just main & rod bearings, complete gasket kit, and rings for $200. For $5 more kit B has moly rings vs kit A with cast iron rings...

You can get a federal mogul kit or michigan engine kit...

http://www.manciniracing.com/enrebkit.html

I can change bearings and rings without any machining?

:coffee2:

 

[krazykuda]

I can change bearings and rings without any machining?

:coffee2:

Yes, take out the ones that are in it and look on the back to see what size they are and order that same size and some plastic gauge. The bearings should be marked what size they are, STD, .010, .020....

If you can run your finger nail along the crank journals without catching any nicks or scratches, then you should be ok with installing a new set of bearings.


I would also be cautious on the bolts.

At the engine factory we would only use tighten the bolts 3 cycles. Fastener engineering says that max of 5 clamp cycles on the bolts before they become too stretched and then can fail. So we only used 3 clamp cycles in the plant and left 2 cycles for after the plant; one for a repair, and one for a rebuild, but that didn't take into account the clamp cycle to plastic gauge...

I would consider replacing the rod bolts, main bolts, head bolts, and rocker arm bolts. (I just found a rocker arm bolt that was stretched to where it was necking down just last week while chasing the threads with a die...

I always chase any threads with a tap and die, unless it's a new bolt. that way you get a good clean torque on the bolt and none of it is "absorbed" by any dirt or deformed threads from the previous use... This way you get the best torque and clamp load from them.

How deep are you going into the engine?

If you are going to use a 340/360 head on there, I would recommend getting a set of 10.5 compression pistons for it. If you get 10.5 318 pistons, then with the larger combustion chamber of the 340/360 head will work out to be 9.2... Perfect for a street engine on pump gas...

 

[MrJLR]

Yes, take out the ones that are in it and look on the back to see what size they are and order that same size and some plastic gauge. The bearings should be marked what size they are, STD, .010, .020....

If you can run your finger nail along the crank journals without catching any nicks or scratches, then you should be ok with installing a new set of bearings.


I would also be cautious on the bolts.

At the engine factory we would only use tighten the bolts 3 cycles. Fastener engineering says that max of 5 clamp cycles on the bolts before they become too stretched and then can fail. So we only used 3 clamp cycles in the plant and left 2 cycles for after the plant; one for a repair, and one for a rebuild, but that didn't take into account the clamp cycle to plastic gauge...

I would consider replacing the rod bolts, main bolts, head bolts, and rocker arm bolts. (I just found a rocker arm bolt that was stretched to where it was necking down just last week while chasing the threads with a die...

I always chase any threads with a tap and die, unless it's a new bolt. that way you get a good clean torque on the bolt and none of it is "absorbed" by any dirt or deformed threads from the previous use... This way you get the best torque and clamp load from them.

How deep are you going into the engine?

If you are going to use a 340/360 head on there, I would recommend getting a set of 10.5 compression pistons for it. If you get 10.5 318 pistons, then with the larger combustion chamber of the 340/360 head will work out to be 9.2... Perfect for a street engine on pump gas...

I wasn't planning on going that deep into the engine.....but now you've got me thinking...!

 

[Aaron65]

Are the head gaskets leaking? Is compression down or uneven? Is the oil pressure low? Is it making any noises?

If the answer to the above questions is no, put the wrench down and rethink all this. If you start tearing into the bearings and head gaskets, you will inevitably end up spending thousands of dollars when all you wanted to do is stop a few oil leaks.

Read up on Rusty's treatise from a month ago. If you just want to add a little snap, find a nice mild cam, put on a decent intake and four barrel, and go have fun! Just my opinion.

 

[krazykuda]

I wasn't planning on going that deep into the engine.....but now you've got me thinking...!

If you are going to yank it out, take care of everything before it goes back in....

Better than having to do it again later....

 

[krazykuda]

Are the head gaskets leaking? Is compression down or uneven? Is the oil pressure low? Is it making any noises?

If the answer to the above questions is no, put the wrench down and rethink all this. If you start tearing into the bearings and head gaskets, you will inevitably end up spending thousands of dollars when all you wanted to do is stop a few oil leaks.

Read up on Rusty's treatise from a month ago. If you just want to add a little snap, find a nice mild cam, put on a decent intake and four barrel, and go have fun! Just my opinion.

If he has a lower end oil leak, it's easier to pull the engine to replace the pan gaskets and such down there...

 

[MOPARMITCH]

Ahh , what the heck !! While you have it out, it's good insurance. I know I would, unles you really know the engine history.

 

[Aaron65]

If he has a lower end oil leak, it's easier to pull the engine to replace the pan gaskets and such down there...

Oh I agree with that, but it's always good to be realistic about what you want out of the car, too. Once things start coming apart too much, money is easily spent.

On the other hand, I just did the rear main seal in my Mustang in the car, and the worst part was the oil dripping on me.

 

[krazykuda]

Oh I agree with that, but it's always good to be realistic about what you want out of the car, too. Once things start coming apart too much, money is easily spent.

On the other hand, I just did the rear main seal in my Mustang in the car, and the worst part was the oil dripping on me.

Yeah, I did a rear main seal in the car once.... Just once....

Never again.... :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:


I have my own engine lift, it's not a big deal to pull it...

The guys in high school didn't trust me and accused me of changing engines more often than oil.... #-o

 

[MrJLR]

Are the head gaskets leaking? Is compression down or uneven? Is the oil pressure low? Is it making any noises?

No to all the above.
Good oil pressure, good even compression...no noises. Doesn't smoke or burn oil.

 

[Aaron65]

Yeah, I did a rear main seal in the car once.... Just once....

Never again.... :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:


I have my own engine lift, it's not a big deal to pull it...

The guys in high school didn't trust me and accused me of changing engines more often than oil.... #-o

Sometimes, it's just fun to pull stuff apart! Having five old cars, however, I try to be a little more zen about what I want to do and what I need to do.

 

[Abodybomber]

would just check it out n bearings/add a mild cam/intake combo( stock 340 cast iron/Performer 318/360, any good dual plane intake )/add a new oil pump /gasket kit. Put a double roller/pre smog timing chain on it, degreed would be nice,not mandatory. The Summit K6900 cam & lifter kit is close in spec,to what you need.( pick your favorite cam grinder) p.s.: new 340 style valve springs,as well.

 

[MrJLR]

would just check it out n bearings/add a mild cam/intake combo( stock 340 cast iron/Performer 318/360, any good dual plane intake )/add a new oil pump /gasket kit. Put a double roller/pre smog timing chain on it, degreed would be nice,not mandatory. The Summit K6900 cam & lifter kit is close in spec,to what you need.( pick your favorite cam grinder) p.s.: new 340 style valve springs,as well.

If I change a cam - do I have to change the valve springs?

 

[MrJLR]

Yesterday I got the radiator drained and removed, the battery and tray out, fan off and a few other things.....

Pull my engine stand down from the rafters and put it together.....


I think I'll replace this crap with a Lokar cable




Not getting it done as fast as I want (working a lot...) but it'll be out in a couple more days

:coffee2:

 

[krazykuda]

If I change a cam - do I have to change the valve springs?

It depends on what springs that it currently has....

I would get the recommended springs for the cam that you buy and run those to be safe...

 

[MrJLR]

Ok....found some energy after a 12 hour day and I've got most of the top off.....



Noticed this chain on the driver's side motor mount. ....



Lol....that can't be factory...?!!!!!

I'll do the lift Friday morning. ....football starts tomorrow night!

Hard to imagine my Doug's headers fitting in there....but you guys say they do!

Jeff

 

[RJK3]

Hard to imagine my Doug's headers fitting in there....but you guys say they do!

Jeff[/QUOTE]
Bring a friend and a few beers, you'll need them both!

 

[krazykuda]

Noticed this chain on the driver's side motor mount. ....



Lol....that can't be factory...?!!!!!


Jeff

Look closely and you will see why the chain is there.

If there are any oil or power steering leaks, it breaks down the rubber sandwich in the motor mount and it splits and the engine torques up when you load it up. It always pulls up on the driver's side from the reaction of the torque of the engine under load when the motor mount splits. That chain keeps the engine from torquing up and hitting the hood...

That was a common band-aid that they used. I've seen it before...


Fix the leaks, make sure that you have good motor mounts, and then get rid of the chain...

 

[MrJLR]

Hard to imagine my Doug's headers fitting in there....but you guys say they do!

Jeff

Bring a friend and a few beers, you'll need them both![/QUOTE]

That bad even with the engine already out huh ?!!!!

Look closely and you will see why the chain is there.

If there are any oil or power steering leaks, it breaks down the rubber sandwich in the motor mount and it splits and the engine torques up when you load it up. It always pulls up on the driver's side from the reaction of the torque of the engine under load when the motor mount splits. That chain keeps the engine from torquing up and hitting the hood...

That was a common band-aid that they used. I've seen it before...


Fix the leaks, make sure that you have good motor mounts, and then get rid of the chain...

Number 1 reason for the pull is fixing leaks!
10-4 !!!!

Jeff

 

[Ben Drinkin]

I'm doing the same kind of reseal on my teen. Gaskets, oil pump, timing chain,core plugs and paint. I say if the bottom end was happy before, leave it alone. Slap it back in and build a 360 while you drive the teen. If you're gonna throw money at a rebuild, start with more cubes..

 

[MrJLR]

I'm doing the same kind of reseal on my teen. Gaskets, oil pump, timing chain,core plugs and paint. I say if the bottom end was happy before, leave it alone. Slap it back in and build a 360 while you drive the teen. If you're gonna throw money at a rebuild, start with more cubes..

Yup....this is just to keep it going for now.....stroker is coming down the road!

 

[Ben Drinkin]

Yup....this is just to keep it going for now.....stroker is coming down the road!

Then make her pretty and leak free... I'm not planning to drive my teen hard at all so I'm sure it'll last until i get something with a bit more muscle built..

 

[MrJLR]

Here's my partial shopping list....
I'm trying to plan it so a lot of this will be usable when I build the stroker.....

Fuel Pump - $48.99
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar+Perform...3&cadevice=c&gclid=CInB9IjMsscCFQ-IaQodD2oHaQ

Complete Gasket Set - $57.97
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-ks2114?seid=srese1&gclid=CKWf363MsscCFQ-raQodjh0LvQ

Oil Pump - $62.97
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4286589?seid=srese1&gclid=CJWF3d7UsscCFQGqaQodpncHCA

Freeze Plugs - $12.99
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-381-8010?seid=srese1&gclid=CJeI1O7MsscCFQgtaQodjl8GGg


Transmission Kick Down Cable Kit - $150.00
http://bouchillonperformance.com/torqueflite_cable_kits

Motor Mounts - Call 206-440-5464 "Schumacher Creative Services"

Header Gaskets - $32.97
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/php-66037?seid=srese1&gclid=CJ_VjrPJpscCFYlafgodd2QAKw

Edelbrock Carburetor 1406 - $319.97
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1406

Edelbrock Air Gap Intake Manifold - $308.53
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7576?seid=srese1&gclid=CO2F7bLTsscCFQQHaQodjQkMLw

Electronic Distributor $100 (est.)

Timing Chain & Gears $37.99
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-kt3-160s/applications/year/1968

Plugs/Wires/Etc… - $150 est.

Crane Cam & Lifters $237.20
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-150052/overview/

Mini Starter $206.97
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-9513?seid=srese1&gclid=CImyktGBgcYCFQSUfgod_UEARw

Water Pump - $222.73 (WOW!)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8877?seid=srese1&gclid=CLLWwcP72scCFQGVfgod_eUGOA


:coffee2:

Jeff