k frames

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66340SEDAN said:
Yes, they use the spool motor mounts which are better.
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Also, Doesn't the center link mount a little different on a 73-6 as opposed to a 70-2. I have a steering link that came from a 72 that is completely different from my 73. Like the pitman arm and idler arm mount at an angle on the center link
 
player1up said:
Also, Doesn't the center link mount a little different on a 73-6 as opposed to a 70-2. I have a steering link that came from a 72 that is completely different from my 73. Like the pitman arm and idler arm mount at an angle on the center link
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You have to use ALL the steering gear from the related year. You can't use a 73+ Idler and pitman with a 72 down center link and vice versa. The early/late arms attach to the center link from different directions (above/below).
 
That is exactly what I did with the Demon. It has a 75 K-member. All of the hardware is from the 75, save the cop car steering box from an M-body. I had to swap out the pitman arm on that.

Besides having the advantage of the spool mounts for the engine, the anti-roll bar passes through the K-member, not in front of it. This allows the use of the B-body LBP disk brakes without the caliper hitting the anti-roll bar on tight turns.

The work around for LBP disk on pre-73 models is to reverse the spindles which puts the caliper on the rear side of the caster axis.
 
72 Demon said:
That is exactly what I did with the Demon. It has a 75 K-member. All of the hardware is from the 75, save the cop car steering box from an M-body. I had to swap out the pitman arm on that.

Besides having the advantage of the spool mounts for the engine, the anti-roll bar passes through the K-member, not in front of it. This allows the use of the B-body LBP disk brakes without the caliper hitting the anti-roll bar on tight turns.
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Also the thru mount sway bars allow for greater than 4.5 backspacing rims with wide tires to be used. Otherwise at full lock the tire will hit the 72 down sway bar.

And some aftermarket 72 down sway bar mounting setups place the front of the sway bar very low where parts of the mounting can scrap the ground if the car is lowered.

The work around for LBP disk on pre-73 models is to reverse the spindles which puts the caliper on the rear side of the caster axis.
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No ill handling effect on rear mounted or front mounted calipers on any car on the street. I've seen them on racecars both ways also. More on the rear to allow for brake ducting.

Never heard of any bad vehicle dynamics from mounting calipers front or rear. Am I missing something?
 
Great info Autox! Being the suspension dumbass I am, I hope you could answer this question. Is it possible to mount 245 50 16 front and 285 50 16 rear tires on a '72 Duster? My engine will be a 4" stroker and I will want to use fenderwell headers too, lol!

Yes, I want it all. I want drag strip performance yet be able to beat a 170 hp BMW 2002 through the twisties.

In summation, can this be done with a stock K-frame or will I need an Alter-K? Is this a pipe dream or can it be done? 4 wheel discs are also part of the plan plus subframe connectors and a 8 point roll bar to stiffen the chassis.

This is personal. My X keeps telling me what a great driver she is but can't even back up a moving truck, lol! And yes, she races SCCA.
 
ramcharger said:
Great info Autox! Being the suspension dumbass I am, I hope you could answer this question. Is it possible to mount 245 50 16 front and 285 50 16 rear tires on a '72 Duster? My engine will be a 4" stroker and I will want to use fenderwell headers too, lol!
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Don't know about the rear.

Probably not with fenderwell headers. You need real short tires with those to avoid rubbing when turning the car very much. Also they aren't that great for ground clearance. There was a picture of a Dart here with fenderwell headers and he ran 23.5"? diameter tiny tire to avoid rubbing. Don't know which brand of fenderwells.

Disregarding the headers I think you might be able to do 245/50/16 but you would have to run 5" backpace rims and make sure you had the flat type upper ball joints. It will be close at the front bottom fender lip. It's gotta be 5" backspacing not 4.75"

I run 245/50/15 on 15x8 4.5 backspacing. With your 1/2" larger radius usually .5" more of backspacing will make up for that.

Yes, I want it all. I want drag strip performance yet be able to beat a 170 hp BMW 2002 through the twisties.

In summation, can this be done with a stock K-frame or will I need an Alter-K? Is this a pipe dream or can it be done? 4 wheel discs are also part of the plan plus subframe connectors and a 8 point roll bar to stiffen the chassis.

This is personal. My X keeps telling me what a great driver she is but can't even back up a moving truck, lol! And yes, she races SCCA.
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Don't need a AlterK to do it. But what are you missing or need to buy for this project?

Do you need to buy a: V-8 K-member ($125), sway bar ($130), lower control arms with sway bar tabs ($125), large ball joint upper control arms ($50) rebuild power steering box ($400), suspension rebuilt kit ($300), arengineering 13" Brembo kit ($1000), used viper calipers ($300), QA1 single adj shock ($200/pr). T-bars ($300) That's about $2850.

Compare that to a AlterK: basic kit $4250, Willwood 12.9" disk $1579 upgrade. That's about $5829

So a lot of the stuff that comes with the AlterK you would have to buy for the stock setup anyway.

Use the money first to buy TTI or Dougs header for better ground clearance. I think the www.arengineering.com viper/brembo caliper 13" disk conversions are the best bang for the buck. But you will need 17" rims. That's why I would avoid 16" rims alltogether. Choice is getting limited in 16" also.

Just step up to 275/40/17 with 5.5 backspacing on 17x9 rims for the front and run the same in the rear with the right B-body rear end. Then you can rotate tires and be able to upgrade to 13" in the future if you wish.
 
So I was just wondering something. I have already converted my frontend to a 74 disc brake setup. I was going to put the factory 74 swaybar on the 72, because it doesn't have one. But from what I'm reading here, that won't work, am I right? I should just go ahead and swap in the 74 K member, along with the steering box and center link etc, and use the swaybar on THAT K member, correct?
 
The only advantage to the old style K frame is that you could shim up the motor mounts. I had to do this to fit the TTI headers. There is a specific distance from the k frame to the center of the crankshaft.
 
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