Keg intake to 4 bbl m1 intake

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cudaFS

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Hello, will a throttle body work with the p451008 4bbl intake? I want to replace the keg and use it on a 94, 5.9 magnum
 
No pic?
I find nothing on a Mopar P451008 manifold- do you mean the P4510018? It's for carbed applications.
Do you want to use the factory throttle body or an aftermarket 4bbl. throttle body?
The factory one will require an adapter plate, and you will still have to drill the manifold and weld in bungs for the injectors and fuel rails.
If you're looking to use the factory stuff, look for the P5410016 manifold- everything bolts up.
1712956544865.png
 
No pic?
I find nothing on a Mopar P451008 manifold- do you mean the P4510018? It's for carbed applications.
Do you want to use the factory throttle body or an aftermarket 4bbl. throttle body?
The factory one will require an adapter plate, and you will still have to drill the manifold and weld in bungs for the injectors and fuel rails.
If you're looking to use the factory stuff, look for the P5410016 manifold- everything bolts up.
View attachment 1716235672
Thanks for the info Professor
 
The amount of work to use that manifold with the factory efi will not be worth it. Buy the efi edlebrock rpm from Hughes engines and it’s a direct swap.
 
The amount of work to use that manifold with the factory efi will not be worth it. Buy the efi edlebrock rpm from Hughes engines and it’s a direct swap.
I'm still not sure about the efi's out there, you see so many used ones for sale, makes me wonder how well they actually run. lots of complaints and technical problems, all brands
 
No pic?
I find nothing on a Mopar P451008 manifold- do you mean the P4510018? It's for carbed applications.
Do you want to use the factory throttle body or an aftermarket 4bbl. throttle body?
The factory one will require an adapter plate, and you will still have to drill the manifold and weld in bungs for the injectors and fuel rails.
If you're looking to use the factory stuff, look for the P5410016 manifold- everything bolts up.
View attachment 1716235672
That’s a good intake if you can find one.
But damn they’ve gotten out of control on price.

6B0D71B2-779A-492E-9FAC-37EBE60E37F6.png
 
I'm still not sure about the efi's out there, you see so many used ones for sale, makes me wonder how well they actually run. lots of complaints and technical problems, all brands
With the factory magnum cam and springs there will be little to no gain changing intakes from the beer barrel to really anything. It’s a pretty good match for what the magnums were designed to do. Now, if you upgrade the cam and springs there is lots to be had.
 
I'm still not sure about the efi's out there, you see so many used ones for sale, makes me wonder how well they actually run. lots of complaints and technical problems, all brands
if the hughes is used with the factory ecu thats a different story, the self learning efi set ups are the ones I'm not convinced on yet
 
I'm still not sure about the efi's out there, you see so many used ones for sale, makes me wonder how well they actually run. lots of complaints and technical problems, all brands
Most of those are TBIs, the Magnums use multi-point injection. Different animals.
 
if the hughes is used with the factory ecu thats a different story, the self learning efi set ups are the ones I'm not convinced on yet

Ok tell us what you’re trying to do.
 
With the factory magnum cam and springs there will be little to no gain changing intakes from the beer barrel to really anything. It’s a pretty good match for what the magnums were designed to do. Now, if you upgrade the cam and springs there is lots to be had.
I have a 209 duration cam I'm going to put in it agree on the factory cam, although it works well in 4 low, and surprisingly up to 60 mph if you floor it and keep your foot in it
 
I want it to run more efficiently ve wise, and have a little more pep 0-60, while keeping my obd1

“More efficiently ve wise”
Not even sure what that means.
You are not going to get any more efficiency with anything other than the factory efi. I like the obd2 better than obd1 but only for its tuneability. For a little more grunt 0-60 a small cam and springs and the rpm Hughes intake and you’ll be there.
 
“More efficiently ve wise”
Not even sure what that means.
You are not going to get any more efficiency with anything other than the factory efi. I like the obd2 better than obd1 but only for its tuneability. For a little more grunt 0-60 a small cam and springs and the rpm Hughes intake and you’ll be there.
VE means volumetric efficiency obd swap is too much of a can of worms for me, I'll throw in a better cam and call it good
 
VE means volumetric efficiency obd swap is too much of a can of worms for me, I'll throw in a better cam and call it good
I’m all too familiar with what VE means. What I didn’t understand is your statement about “wanting to run more efficiently VE wise”.
 
The amount of work to use that manifold with the factory efi will not be worth it. Buy the efi edlebrock rpm from Hughes engines and it’s a direct swap.
I agree...Those manifolds are also total pieces of casting nightmare *****.
The port windows are a mess all of them are too low.

Now the Hughes you post a link to, that's a nice piece
 
I agree...Those manifolds are also total pieces of casting nightmare *****.
The port windows are a mess all of them are too low.

Now the Hughes you post a link to, that's a nice piece
I just bought a Magnum crate engine (300hp) from a dyno shop local to me. Going from a stock cam to a small comp (212/218 .480 114) and switching from an M1 dual plane to an RPM Air gap, the thing picked up 65hp and lost no torque anywhere.
 
The factory Magnum kegger manifolds are easy to modify & will make pretty good horsepower if they are modded right. Unless you're doing high RPM drag racing, they are great manifolds for the street, easy & dirt cheap to get + they make good low-down torque. Check out Utawsome Performance for mods to them.
 
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