[WANTED] kelsey hayes part and proportioning valve

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mopower440 said:
not sure what your saying?
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Just look at the pics and you can see the differences.

I had to massage my pre-fabbed lines slightly to make it work. It was simple. Little bends here and there.

I don’t see why you can’t make the heat shield fit. Nothing about the newer style valve obstructs the shield, it’s easy enough to adjust the lines imo. It just slightly longer on the bottom.

I dig the shield. Pain in the *** I bet to move if you are looking for brake line leaks.

If you want easy plug and play. Get a pre-made set for a 1970 a-body. Your choice of mild steel or stainless. The stainless requires a bit more torque to seal properly.
 
1969383S said:
I ordered the wrong one for my pre 73 and went to plumb with all the correct 69 lines and it sits at different angle and not plug and play. Re-ordered. It can be adapted but I was going for stock! Here are pics of a pre 73 factory BB setup that also has the heat shield to cover the distribution block found only on BB cars. Note the separate hold off valve down lower on the frame.

View attachment 1715311448

View attachment 1715311449
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I see you’re missing the little s-clip that holds the lines coming from the MC together. I have one if you need it. My lines don’t touch like that obviously.
 
1969383S said:
The distribution block, lines and hold off valve all came from inline tubes. I opted for the standard lines and not SS. Direct Bolt on plug and play. I did not trust any of it as being nearly 50 years old when the resto was done.
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Well, just went and looked and now im REALLY confused..My car seems to already have this proportioning valve..even though it has 4 wheel DRUM brakes..SO, does this mean im good to go with the disk conversion without changing that stuff?
block.jpg
 
daves66valiant said:
Just look at the pics and you can see the differences.

I had to massage my pre-fabbed lines slightly to make it work. It was simple. Little bends here and there.

I don’t see why you can’t make the heat shield fit. Nothing about the newer style valve obstructs the shield, it’s easy enough to adjust the lines imo. It just slightly longer on the bottom.

I dig the shield. Pain in the *** I bet to move if you are looking for brake line leaks.

If you want easy plug and play. Get a pre-made set for a 1970 a-body. Your choice of mild steel or stainless. The stainless requires a bit more torque to seal properly.
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Oh but it does! Your combo valve is about 1” lower than the frame rail while my stock distribution valve is above or even with the rail. You can certainly can fab a shield but not the same as plug and play! Ease of access like we have makes all of it easier. Trying to retro with the engine in makes it a bit harder to boot.
 
mopower440 said:
Well, just went and looked and now im REALLY confused..My car seems to already have this proportioning valve..even though it has 4 wheel DRUM brakes..SO, does this mean im good to go with the disk conversion without changing that stuff?View attachment 1715311474
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Looks like a standard distribution valve to me.
 
mopower440 said:
so i dont need to do anything then? Why would the car already have this being its factory drums all the way around?
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It is a standard block not a disc setup. Unless you have the separate hold off as previously shown.
 
1969383S said:
It is a standard block not a disc setup. Unless you have the separate hold off as previously shown.
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ok..i think everyone has been telling me wrong then..so all i need is that small hold off valve that has 1 line in and one out and then im good to go? Everyone keeps saying i needed the proportioning valve that looks just like what i already have so..and i ordered on a few hours ago before i discovered i already had it..
 
Notice how daves66valient combo block has the rear line input/output staggered with the Texas valve built in and how the one I posted is straight across. Yours is like mine and not a disc block without using the separate hold off valve.
 
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Like said don’t fret you can use the other block as shown, just have to do some tweaking.

Also note how your block is at frame level on the bottom and not below it as dave66valient is.
 
ok, n
1969383S said:
Like said don’t fret you can use the other block as shown, just have to do some tweaking.
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ah ok, i think i see what you mean..i didnt realize the difference there..Ok, so tell me if this is correct, Either get the disk/drum prop valve like Daves and swap it in place of my current on, OR, Keep my original one and just add the hold off valve? Is this correct?
 
Yes!

Or and aftermarket adjustable one that is plumbed after your original block on the rear line.
 
I have a new combo one that I incorrectly ordered if you go that way.
 
1969383S said:
Yes!

Or and aftermarket adjustable one that is plumbed after your original block on the rear line.
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Thank you!! I do believe the one i ordered is correct for the disk and drum setup, and just realized Dave is the one i ordered it from..Ha! BUT, wouldnt it be simpler for me to just splice in the simple hold off valve like you have being its just 1 line in and 1 line out? If so, i think i would rather do that than trying to rig the combo valve in there..
 
Likely, but if it was me and originality was not and issue I would do the adjustable one for better rear control. The factory ones where not the best in that respect and offer no adjustable control.
 
1969383S said:
Likely, but if it was me and originality was not and issue I would do the adjustable one for better rear control. The factory ones where not the best in that respect and offer no adjustable control.
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Really? shoot, i was hearing the opposite so thats why i wanted the factory stuff..heard that they were hard to get correctly adjusted..Dang it. Anyways, If i did use the new combo valve, what do i have to do to make it work..does it take different size brake lines or something that makes it tricky ? I was hoping it just swapped in place of the original and the lines all screwed right back into it..I figured i may have to bend the lines a little if anything but thats no problem..
 
Here is the easiest, simplest way to do it.

Remove your stock drum brake distribution block you have pictured.

Leave the old brake lines in place.

Install proportioning valve in its place.

Hook up old brake lines.

DONE!

Hope that’s simple enough for you
 
383

It looks like the shield hangs down an inch below frame rail in the picture?
 
daves66valiant said:
Here is the easiest, simplest way to do it.

Remove your stock drum brake distribution block you have pictured.

Leave the old brake lines in place.

Install proportioning valve in its place.

Hook up old brake lines.

DONE!

Hope that’s simple enough for you
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If thats all it is to it then ya, thats what i will do! Sounds good!
 
1969383S said:
Agree but more difficult when you have an engine in the bay!
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ya, especially since i have fenderwell headers! thats the reason i was considering just doing the hold off valve instead, but i will give it a shot though being i ordered one..
 
mopower440 said:
Well, just went and looked and now im REALLY confused..My car seems to already have this proportioning valve..even though it has 4 wheel DRUM brakes..SO, does this mean im good to go with the disk conversion without changing that stuff?View attachment 1715311474
Click to expand...
As said this is just a Distribution block with a safety switch
 
Adding a new adjustable prop valve involves cutting the lines and flaring them to attach to said valve. It is easy to do. With plain old drums in the back it’s not something Uber critical. Hell you could simply not use a prop valve at all. People have done it without issue. The main thing you are trying to do is prevent rear lock up before the fronts engage. Majority of the braking power is in the front discs. These cars are freaking dinosaurs with 50 year old brake technology. The factory made it work just fine with OEM parts. Aftermarket prop valve has its advantages but not necessary. I have one of them sitting In a box if I ever decide to put rear discs on my car. Only then will I switch out the later proportioning valve and reinstall my old drum distribution block.

Try not to make this more difficult than it needs to be. You are not getting misinformation. You are misunderstanding the information given. Take your time and read up. We are happy to help fellow members so please don’t take this the wrong way.
 
daves66valiant said:
Adding a new adjustable prop valve involves cutting the lines and flaring them to attach to said valve. It is easy to do. With plain old drums in the back it’s not something Uber critical. Hell you could simply not use a prop valve at all. People have done it without issue. The main thing you are trying to do is prevent rear lock up before the fronts engage. Majority of the braking power is in the front discs. These cars are freaking dinosaurs with 50 year old brake technology. The factory made it work just fine with OEM parts. Aftermarket prop valve has its advantages but not necessary. I have one of them sitting In a box if I ever decide to put rear discs on my car. Only then will I switch out the later proportioning valve and reinstall my old drum distribution block.

Try not to make this more difficult than it needs to be. You are not getting misinformation. You are misunderstanding the information given. Take your time and read up. We are happy to help fellow members so please don’t take this the wrong way.
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no,no, i absolutely didnt take it the wrong way at all..I am happy you all are helping me with this!
 
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