Lakewood Bellhousing Headaches HELP!

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684door

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I am working on my 68 Dart 383/4 speed conversion. I mounted my 15330 Lakewood bell yesterday, used the starter adapter kit provided. What happened. The starter engage the flywheel, but won't retract. Took the mopar mini starter off, tested, and worked fine. Back on adjusting the starter position, same problem. Wondered if anyone else had this problem.

Next, I have all the mechanical linkage for the setup, but after reading several posts on the nightmare of lakewoods and linkage, I am considering an American powertrain hydraulic unit. I would love to run the mechanical stuff, but would love to know the pros and cons of each.
Please help anyone! Losing the excitement of the swap quickly. Thanks.
 
Is your MP starter bolting up flush. Evidently there has been clearance issues with mini starters and engine block.

What sort of problems do you anticipate with standard clutch linkage and the Lakewood?
 
I clearance the block for the starter. I am concerned about the ball bivot location on Lakewood scattershield
 
I clearance the block for the starter. I am concerned about the ball bivot location on Lakewood scattershield


So at this point you are cranking the engine but not starting it?

Did you happen to indicate the shield with the crank? Maybe the block to bell alignment pins are wrong for the Lakewood.

I'd bolt the pivots /z-bar in. If it's straight across in any view it should be fine.
 
I have had this same thing happen with more than one Lakewood.
One I was just able to remove the starter nose insert and not use it.
Starter was no longer in a bind and it worked fine like that.
Others I have modified the starter mounting position by welding a stud in the correct
place rather than use the starter bolt. Placed it so the starter teeth engage the flywheel properly.
I didn't care for all the little bits and pieces Lakewood has in the kit. The precision of these parts just wasn't up to the task most of the time. Causing the problems like your having.
I like the Lakewood's but have never found them to be a bolt on and go type
part. Always ended up doing some welding on them for z-bar or starter issues.
I may have been a bit quick to start modifying or welding just because it seemed
easier than dealing with the small parts.
 
I had issues with my Z-Bar lining up also. I wound up making an adaptor to get it to be in the correct location. Here's a shot of it.
I heard once that the Big Block Lakewood bells only worked properly on B bodies. I cant say if this is true or not.
Ted
 

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My American Powertrain kit will be here next week. No way in hell I am willing to screw around with headers, tbars and clutch linkage.
 
DusTed74, so you just modified the z bar? The pivot seams like the stock big block a body with the spacer. Am I seeing this correct. thanks
 
DusTed74, so you just modified the z bar? The pivot seams like the stock big block a body with the spacer. Am I seeing this correct. thanks

The Z bar is a 6 cyl one that I made to fit a big block but this is the spacer/adaptor that I made to line up the pivots.

Ted
 

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Thank you DusTed74. Your info and pics have been extremely helpful. If I have anymore questions I hope you don't mind but I will probably pm you with them.
Thanks, Steve
 
Thank you DusTed74. Your info and pics have been extremely helpful. If I have anymore questions I hope you don't mind but I will probably pm you with them.
Thanks, Steve

I'm glad this helped you out Steve.
Feel free to contact me any time.

Ted
 
I had issues with my Z-Bar lining up also. I wound up making an adaptor to get it to be in the correct location. Here's a shot of it.
I heard once that the Big Block Lakewood bells only worked properly on B bodies. I cant say if this is true or not.
Ted
What sort of angle did you measure at to make that work? I’m guessing it cleared the headers?
 
I would have to look up that print for it. If you want I look for them.
As far as headers go I have wheel well headers so there is no problem there.
Ted
 
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