jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
I'd definitely go with hemi 71x's parts over those qa1's.
I'm a little lost. What's the washer being welded on for?
Lca
- Thread starter CRUZE 418
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I'd definitely go with hemi 71x's parts over those qa1's.
I'm a little lost. What's the washer being welded on for?
Cheapsunglasses
In rust we trust!
In theory you weld a washer on the bushing to help press it out. Sometimes it works, some times it doesn’t. Here’s an internet picture if it helps
Ma Mopar invented the 1 3/8 tap method for the removal of the LCA bushing shells, back in the dinosaur days.
This is scanned out of my 1963 maintenance manual.
This is scanned out of my 1963 maintenance manual.
Cheapsunglasses
In rust we trust!
Wow, I never knew Chrysler did that. Excellent example of what these forums are for, thanks!
I prefer the 1 3/8" tap method myself. For a "one off" the chisel or welded washer method definitely can work but you do have to be careful. I bought a tap off eBay using @hemi71x 's recommendation, I forget exactly what I paid for it but it was only around $20. Well worth it, especially since the LCA rebuild and Delrin bushing install is something I'm doing more than once.
As for the QA1 tubular LCA's, I use them on my Duster. Great parts, the old style added some suspension travel although the current version no longer does without modification. But not really necessary, other than the suspension travel the only real advantage is that they're a few pounds lighter. They also come with rubber bushings for some reason, which seems kinda silly to me. I installed Delrins from @BergmanAutoCraft in mine
The whole process of removing the rubber bushings and shells and installing the Delrin bushings is in my build thread here...
[URL="https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/my-new-74-duster-or-why-i-need-a-project-like-a-hole-in-the-head.198098/page-9#post-1971782629"]My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head[/URL]
As for the QA1 tubular LCA's, I use them on my Duster. Great parts, the old style added some suspension travel although the current version no longer does without modification. But not really necessary, other than the suspension travel the only real advantage is that they're a few pounds lighter. They also come with rubber bushings for some reason, which seems kinda silly to me. I installed Delrins from @BergmanAutoCraft in mine
The whole process of removing the rubber bushings and shells and installing the Delrin bushings is in my build thread here...
[URL="https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/my-new-74-duster-or-why-i-need-a-project-like-a-hole-in-the-head.198098/page-9#post-1971782629"]My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head[/URL]
I too have learned from others in the rebuilding of these LCA's, to make life lots easier, in getting this done.
I learned from member Jim Lusk, who i have known for decades, a method in removing the "shell" that's left on the pivot shaft, without having to cut it off.
Somebody always seems to invent a better mouse trap, in getting things done.
I would bet that buying the tap is less expensive than replacing the LCAs after butchery!
Ironracer
Gearhead
Eh, Sometimes, when you get pissed off enough, you get the "Edge" on what Yer working on and whip it! And other times you smash Yourself with a BFH.... then, after jumping around and screaming cuss words, you can REALLY get after it!That’s why I suggested a more helpful cold snack break. Have a nice drink, go to the joke and funny stuff section of this great forum, and cool down a bit. Nothing good comes from anger.
Vinny
Well-Known Member
The tap method is perfect. I bought my tap on ebay also, years ago. Press it after threading it in a bit. No hammering!
Ironracer
Gearhead
Lol, yeah, A Hammer and A high carbon steel tool with cutting threads turned in a darn near immovable object ain't cool
Update The tap was the way to go. Borrowed one, turned it in about halfway through the bushing and pressed it out.
Next problem was after reassembly of the front end, I now have a bull frog croaking on both sides. After asking questions again, turns out that the aftermarket struts or lower control arm anchors are out of adjustment. They were on the car when I bought it. Loosened them up and the bullfrog left. So that was my problem all along, but I now have new delrins and shafts. Will try and get them adjusted per advice from 72bluNblu.
Thanks again to all!
Next problem was after reassembly of the front end, I now have a bull frog croaking on both sides. After asking questions again, turns out that the aftermarket struts or lower control arm anchors are out of adjustment. They were on the car when I bought it. Loosened them up and the bullfrog left. So that was my problem all along, but I now have new delrins and shafts. Will try and get them adjusted per advice from 72bluNblu.
Thanks again to all!
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
Strut rods, you mean? Can you elaborate on the lca anchors?
The rod that goes forward from the lca and anchors in the k-member. It's a solid rod with rubber bushings and washers at the k-member end. Aftermarket It's a hollow tube with aluminum bushing/washer anchors at the k-member. Adjustable with a heim joint.
Will try and take a picture, but you can look at one on PST site. I have been told that it's really an anchor for braking, but it's gotta help stability for the lca as a whole.
Will try and take a picture, but you can look at one on PST site. I have been told that it's really an anchor for braking, but it's gotta help stability for the lca as a whole.
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
No need. That's the adjustable strut rod. I have those also, just wasn't sure exactly what you were talking about based on your last post description. I got it now. So all good, no noises?.
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