Leaking exhaust flange

-
P

ppsi

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2009
Messages
133
Reaction score
19
I have been putting up with this too long. The flange for the head pipe to the exhaust manifold on my dart is pissing me off now. It is a 65 with a super six and the flange has not been flush with the manifold since I had the exhaust dozen years ago. Every 3 months or so the damn ticking noise starts and I ignore it for a while and then put on 2 gaskets and the cycle starts again. I don't drive it a lot but when I do my power steering conversion in the next few months I wold like to fix it. What are some recommendations? I was thinking of taking the gaskets off and bolting it back together and heating the pipe in an area near the fire wall red hot figuring the stress of the misalignment would configure the pipe properly. I won't take it anywhere because when I do things don't get done right.
Any other suggestions on a better way?
Thanks-Howard
 
Are your intakes and exaust level w/ a straight edge? If they are as close as you can get them, then donr use just any gasket.use a REMFLEX!!! They are the best for this!! I run them on my wifes street/ strip slant 6 car, and on my drag car.....they come w/ a new stove pipe gasket also.You will love them!! Themm them the guy w/ the drag car slant six told you about them.LOL
Andrew/Kidd
 
I have Remflex on the intake/exhaust but the exhaust to the head pipe is the problem area. The head pipe flange is cocked at an angle to the flange on the exhaust manifold so I am trying to find an easy fix.
Thanks-Howard
 
Check the flange between the pipes for warp. I have sawzalled them between, and then flanges stay tight.
 
I have gotten them straighter by removeing gasket and then tighten,,heat the down pipe red hot about 2 inches all the way around and retighten while hot,let cool.Now in stall your gasket.Mark
 
What I did to mine was to heat and hammer the flange so the ears are slightly lower than the center and then filed the center area smooth and flat. When bolted down it gives it a little more pressure right around where you need it to seal. I also added a good stiff strap from the bellhousing/block bolts to the pipe. It helps keep the flexing to a minimum. I used one of those expanded steel looking flange gaskets.
 
I like this idea! It would be easier for me that carting the OA torch set out of my incredibly cluttered shop. I wonder though about how bad the biding of the blade would be?
Thanks-Howard

green1 said:
Check the flange between the pipes for warp. I have sawzalled them between, and then flanges stay tight.
Click to expand...
 
Yep, that's annoying. If either side of your flange (headpipe, manifold outlet) is actually warped, then it does not matter what gasket you install, up to and including Remflex, it will leak. Flat flanges seal up fine.
 
AH, we are talking the stove pipe!! If you decide you need any stove pipe gaskets, I have some remflex ones laying around.....you are welcome to 1, or more if you have more cars that need them.
 
Don't see where we're talking about the stove pipe -- looks like we're talking about the headpipe-to-manifold-outlet flange, to me. There's no stovepipe on a slant-6 that has a gasket junction with the exhaust. '70-up engines got a sheetmetal stove around the central collector of the exhaust manifold and a flexible duct (sometimes called the stovepipe) running from the stove to the thermostatic air cleaner snorkel. The '70-'72 slant-6 exhaust manifolds do have an open stove rather than a cast-in pocket for mounting the automatic choke thermostat. These '70-'72 setups have a stainless steel cup sitting in the open stove, gasketed to the exhaust manifold and clamped by the hold-down bolts of the choke thermostat.
 
when i built my 2 1/2" system for my super six i cut a new flange out of 1/2" plate. cheapie gasket is holding up great.
 
LOL....Dan, I think you are right! Aparently I was focused in on the wrong info.I think I was just missing all the right info, bith times.LOL
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top