Leaky adjustable proportioning valve

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22dog22

22dog22

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looking for help with a leaky adjustable inline proportioning valve, seems like the leak is coming from the brass bushing i was supplied with to but the steel brake line flare fitting into the adjustale valve i have started the bushing correctly , not cross threaded, and tighten it as much as possible with out breaking some thing, an idea what to try next??
 

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That fitting is bottomed out. I'd buy a new fitting and CAREFULLY use teflon tape

I'd also look up that prop valve by manufacturer / part no. and be damn sure it's U.S. pipe thread, not metric or some other thread.
 
Looks like the same valve I got with the same problem. I bought a SSBC valve to replace it with but haven't got around to replacing it yet.
 
I have a similar one (chrome) on my 65 Dart, but the logo differs. I have another with a Jegs logo, but both appear from the same factory as yours. The supplied fittings looked like 1/8" NPT threads. Mine had red thread compound on the threads. I agree that it shouldn't be bottomed out on the shoulder. Did you have to torque it real hard to do that? I agree w/ taking it off and adding ~4 wraps of thick teflon tape, i.e. the yellow stuff for natural gas (Home Depot). Don't over-tighten, and if you ever remove it you will have to suck out little pieces of frayed teflon.
 
Get AN fittings . Tony Hirshman should have what you need in stock. He has a race shop on Mud lane near the Copper Penny. I buy all my fittings from Him. Steve
 
throw the fitings away that came with it and get A brand name that's made in the USA !! and don't for get the Teflon tape I like using the tape for gas.its yellow.......Artie

and if it were me I would put a slite bend in the line so its strate going in.
 
Thanks for all of the information, i spoke with john down here in whitehall pa at whitehall auto parts, he very good with repairs, he told me to try using permatex high temp. Sealant it is good for hydralic parts, i was going to give that a try, question- if i put something [plastic/aluinum foil] under the lid of the master cylinder cover will that make a vaccum and hold back the brake fluid? Or do i have to drain the resiover to stop the brake fluid from leaking out on to the valve connection??
Dave
 
Some would have to leak out before the reservoir gets enough vacuum to hold it back. The fuller it is, the less will leak. I doubt any liquid sealant will work unless the port is perfectly dry and clean. Teflon tape would still work. It is used to seal 10,000 psi hydraulic fittings. Your brake system is <1000 psi unless you have a linebacker's legs.
 
What you might have there is a U.S. pipe thread valve and an import "metric" pipe thread. If memory serves (from years ago arguing with SW gauges) Jap metric pipe is SMALLER dia than US, which means a male Jap fitting into a US female would do just that......bottom out.
 
this adjustable valve came with the disc brake kit i got from the right stuff detail [www.getdiscbrakes.com,] the valve and brass fittings and brake lines so hopfully they are of the same thread type, i think i will try the yellow natural gas type teflon tape first before i try the high temp. Permatex thread sealant, i do know some of the brake lines they supplied also had what looked like some type of thread sealant.
 
"YOU" are not listening. NO pipe thread properly bottoms out like yours is doing. Either the male fitting is metric, or was manufactured wrong, or the female is manufactured wrong.

Pipe threads are TAPERED. This means that as you thread a fitting, the more you run the die down a male fitting, the SMALLER the fitting becomes. Likewise, the DEEPER you run a tap into a female fitting, the LARGER it becomes.

NO pipe fitting, properly made up, should look like yours does. You have 1/8 pipe. In many cases, 1/8 is "precision" enough in fit that they will seal with NO sealer.

That brass fitting should be available at ANY auto parts store. That would be female 3/16 inverted flare X 1/8" male pipe.
 
I see, I will see about getting new fittings, I did not really feel good about using a sealant anyway. thanks for the information
 
Don't get me wrong, pipe fittings are designed to be used with sealant. One of the few that are, in fact, maybe "the only."
 
I don't know what thread was on the 3/16" inv flare fittings I put in my similar-looking prop valves, since they came with the prop valve. They looked like 1/8" NPT and I recall using a U.S. wrench. I do have 1/4" inv flare fittings that came in the box that I didn't use, so might check those (if I run across them). If you find it was a design problem, I would complain to Right Stuff, since you paid big $$$ for a BBP brake setup.
 
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