line loc

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OUTLAW

Master of All Mopars
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ok i installed it just like the last time but it don't hold the car ...doesnt even feel like it wants to -but I can feel it in the pedal when i engage and disengage it

so now I have to ask where did you put the solenoid in relation to the master or the porportioning valve
 
Mine is between the proportioning valve and the front brakes with a t and a line to each front caliper. Out of habit I pump mine several times and hold it before i push the button. 1 pump should do, I just do several. I don't like creeping through a burnout. Possible you still have some air in the system?
 
if you have it set up with one line out of porportioning valve with line loc in it then a t to both front calipers ....how was it set up stock to get fluid to both front calipers or where did it split b4 you linee loc it ?


i have a single front to my porportioning valve and 2 conming out to the front brakes & one to rear that splits off after the porportioning valve



lineloc.GIF
 
thats the way mine is and the way i always do it ...might have a bad solenoid even tho I hear it kick in
 
OUTLAW said:
thats the way mine is and the way i always do it ...might have a bad solenoid even tho I hear it kick in

Are you sure its not holding?
At first I had a problem with pushing the front wheels even though
they were locked up.
I thought mine wasn't holding either till I had a friend watch.
 
no they not holding for sure ...i can rock the car back and forth but a new sympton has popped up
I can pump the brakes for an hour and they feel normal but turn the key on and 2nd pump they are rock hard like a power brake system with no vacuum to the booster ...but it still doesnt hold the car. I can flip the switch off and on and hear the solenoid kick but it doesnt change the pedal feel (in case I had the switch backwards )
I just got done re adjusting the rears and bleeding the whole system again ...checked I didnt hook the solenoid up backwards both electrically and hydraulicly ...never had this much trouble with a line loc b4 ...HMMMMMM
 
i got a biondo line lock on my car.
and the directions showed hooking it in between the master and valve.

also with the biondo there is no wrong way of hooking the wires up.

can't find my paper on it but i don't eevn think there was a in or out diredtion on it-not sure on this .

i do know that the hurst and the ones they make for summit and or jegs must be hooked up after the valve.

bill
 
thats what I have is a Biondo and no there isnt a wrong way on the electrical but on the valve mine was stamped brakes .... I found most of my problem ...it was my switch
 
abodybill said:
i do know that the hurst and the ones they make for summit and or jegs must be hooked up after the valve.bill

Not so Bill, mine is a Hurst roll control and its hooked btwn the master and the prop valve and it works fine.
 
I just went out and double checked mine, its been a long time since install. Its after the proportioning valve with one line out of the proportioning valve to the front brakes plugged, one line to the the line-loc then a T to both front brakes. I don't remember the exact reason for installing it this way but the line-loc holds fine and the car has no problems stopping from near 130 mph or on eighth mile tracks with short shut-down. Maybe not the prefered method but it works well for me.
 
The prefered position is after the valve, which is not only proportioning valve but it is a safety valve that will light the brake indicator light up in the dash should you have a leak in the system. when you apply the pedal, if the valve sees no pressure say in the rear brakes due to a leak in the systm, it trigger this valve to light the light indicating a brake problem. So if you hook the line lock up inbetween the master cylinder and the valve, when the line lock is applied and your foot is off the brake the dash light will come on.

Having said all that, in my old drag car (70 340 duster..now in storage) I installed it in between the m/c and the valve and it works fine. The added bonus is that you know that there is pressure being held in the front brakes when the light is on.

Plus it is asier to install there as you need less fittings etc and it is sometimes tough to get the fittings apart on the prop valve with the engine in the car
 
onehellofadart said:
abodybill said:
i do know that the hurst and the ones they make for summit and or jegs must be hooked up after the valve.bill

Not so Bill, mine is a Hurst roll control and its hooked btwn the master
and the prop valve and it works fine.

tony,i have a new instruction sheet on the hurst roll control and it has a picture showing that they want it inbetween the valve and front brakes?

now this maybe for the new ones out for the reason said above about the dash light but when i installed mine i had a lite in the kit but left it out knowing my dash light would come on so no need for 2 lites.

bill
 
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