Lube on cam and lifters.

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swifty

swifty

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I rebuilt a la 360 about 4 years ago with comp 262 cam and lifters. It was a complete rebuild with new pistons , bearings the works. At the time I was planning on running it that summer but this and that happened and it's 4 years later. I used the comp cam and lifters lube when I put it together. My question is should I reapply more lube now that the engine is ready to be broke in? The comp lube is pretty thin and cam looks dry. Should I remove lifters and lube or just pore it on cam while turning. I am ready to install intake and put engine in car. I do plan on priming oil system before installing to check for leaks and oil to rockers..
 
Pull the lifters and re-coat with lube, also coat the cam.........an ounce of prevention
 
swifty said:
I rebuilt a la 360 about 4 years ago with comp 262 cam and lifters. It was a complete rebuild with new pistons , bearings the works. At the time I was planning on running it that summer but this and that happened and it's 4 years later. I used the comp cam and lifters lube when I put it together. My question is should I reapply more lube now that the engine is ready to be broke in? The comp lube is pretty thin and cam looks dry. Should I remove lifters and lube or just pore it on cam while turning. I am ready to install intake and put engine in car. I do plan on priming oil system before installing to check for leaks and oil to rockers..
Click to expand...

Yup.
This is exactly why I like the paste instead of the liquid break in lubes, but after 4 years I don't think I would trust the paste either.
 
if your rockers are not on you can just pour/paint onto cam and pop lifters out and dab them too. how thick are we talking? the moly stuff sticks pretty the red pancake syrup is going to run off.
 
and spin the oil pmp with a hex shaft
what oil
all the light components have evaporated
do not zddp to SN oil
 
Rockers are on but intake is not bolted down. Pulling rockers and lifters should not be a big deal. Engine hopefully will be installed and broke in within the next month. Should I stick with the Comp lube or switch to a paste. What paste do you recommend. The bearings were lubed with Lubra-plate assembly lube so that still should be there.
 
swifty said:
Rockers are on but intake is not bolted down. Pulling rockers and lifters should not be a big deal. Engine hopefully will be installed and broke in within the next month. Should I stick with the Comp lube or switch to a paste. What paste do you recommend. The bearings were lubed with Lubra-plate assembly lube so that still should be there.
Click to expand...

The comp should be fine as long as it doesn't sit for a month before it's fired.
Try to lube it, assemble and fire it right away.
 
coat the body of the lifter will oil...you can put cam lube on the bottom ,.....you want the lifter to be able to spin...the thicker lube might....might cause added friction....


ZDDPlus Build Paste
 
Wyrmrider said:
do not zddp to SN oil
Click to expand...
Isn't that backwards? I thought the newer SN has the low ZDDP levels under 900 PPM (at least for the lighter weights 30W and lower).

OP, prime the engine as suggested. I personally prefer a moly loaded cam lube like the old Iksy cam lube; there are others. And as said above, putting a generous dab of the lube on the bottom of the lifter is sufficient; after the first full rotation of the cam, it is all wadded up under the lead side of the lifter anyway.
 
ZDDP actually lowers EP in SN oil
you need a calcium based EP additive
do not use SN oil for break in

rest of your post is spot on
I usually give the cam a spray of spray molly then do as you suggested
grind flats on the lifters Buick style too
 
nm9
I remember one place I saw the SN oil thing was in 340RATs stuff I had remembered seeing it before and thinking that at lest the Rat got that right
short duration high lift .904 lifter cams- I have a list somewhere
I did a numbers matching superbird that had a custom ordered 383 I made it into a 426 and used a custom from Crower- that was a long time ago- many more choices now
The Crower had about (less) duration as a 6 pack cam
I remember 218 @.050 and about 550 lift almost .100 more that the factory HP cam
ran good
This car had "show car" paint - no emblems lots of trick stuff 4 speed car
 
Wyrmrider said:
I've seen it several places will try and find it
read this
Oil | Richard's Corvair
corvair is a proxy for flat tappet Widman is an oil importer- knows his stuff
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot. that is a good read, and I will spend more time on it.

There may be some confusion about the calcium additives here.... the article states on page 2 that calcium and magnesium additives are for cleanliness (not EP wear aids) and are polar like ZDDP. I think the point he makes later is that these 2 sets of additives fight each other for 'space' on the surfaces so if you get too much of one, it reduces the effectiveness of the other (page 13). This seems to go hand in hand with the reports of excess ZDDP being bad. There have been discussions here on how much of how much of what additive to use to get the ZDDP levels to around 1300-1500 ppm with oils that start with the lower SN ZDDP levels, which this articles seems to point to as being a good target level (and which seems to be the widely accepted 'happy' level for ZDDP).

BTW, I look at 540RAT's test numbers on occasion, but no longer read his articles since I found one very glaring error in one article. Some if it is interesting (in a good way).
 
Loosened up rocker shafts and lubed cam and lifters. The cam was dry but there was some lube under lifters. Added a generous amount of the comp lube. Also primed oil pump and checked for oil to both heads. Had about 75 psi with drill running on low speed. Also checked fit of headers while on stand.

20180506_163446.jpg
 
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