Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
Google it and you should find a You Tube video that will show you step by step.
times 2 man, there are a bunch of videos , step by step
Google it and you should find a You Tube video that will show you step by step.
BTW a miss will cause the engine to smoke, and more after deceleration.
Dammit, I said I wasn't having anything to do with this thread and now you guys made me.
There's no way you can "buy" a distributor curved for your engine unless someone installed on YOUR motor and tuned it. Mail order? Not tuned for your motor. No way, no how.So i just bought a brand new one that was already curved and phased to my engine.
lol
This guy here nailed it.There are several articles on ported vacuum advance from Mopar Action and Mopar Muscle. All say that ported vacuum advance is necessary for proper street performance. Richard Ehrenberg said that properly set up vacuum advance will increse FE by 30-50%. Enough to justify the time to get this right. I have run up to 60° total adance (initial+mechanical+vacuum) with no detonation on a 9.8:1 CR 340 with a 284/484 cam. Hooking up to manifold vacuum will only increase vacuum advance at idle beyond what is desired or needed to run the engine properly.
Good Luck!
ok, i'm taking it to a shop then because i dont know how in the hell this engine could possibly have a miss?? Brnad new distributer curved and phased. Brand new cap and rotor brass contacts. Plug wires are fiarly new borg warner select 7mm's, plugs are fairly new ngk v-powers and i have triple checked my firing order it is correct.
And when you drive it there is no miss at all, i can go all the way to 6000rpm and it dont miss a beat???
But while its at an idle, you can hear the thud thud thud out the exhaust, i'm really starting to think this broken intake manifold stud has aot to do with whatever the hell is going on with this thing.
I will set up an appointment with my buddys shop to have a compression test and a leak down test done. And i will go from there, depending if everything checks out good? then what could be causing this engine to smoke when backing off the gas? bad valve seals or valve guides? or both? I just read that the valve guides and the valve seals can be replcaed with the heads still on the engine. I guess i will need to get a second opinion on this.
Maybe i should get the broken bolt out, then get a new intake manifold gasket, get the broken stud drilled out put a new bolt in it, bolt the intake back down and if i still have this thudding out the exhaust issue and smoke coming out the exhaust when backing off the gas i will have to think its ehter valve guides or valve seals then, correct?
you can fix the guides yourself with the heads on the engine.
No! Unstable vacuum is an indication of valve trouble. As in a burnt valve. Since you hear it out the exhaust, my guess is that it's an exhaust valve.my vaccum gauage moves around a little bit, it does not stay steady while at an idle, wich i have been told indicates a vaccum leak, i'm wondering if it is too small of one to really change the idle when spraying carburetor cleaner on it.
Here's another explanation of ported vs. manifold vacuum.
Thank you for posting that Mike. I personally don't care which source ya'll use for your vac advance, i'm happy with what i do. But there were some posts earlier which really made me have to bite my tongue.
Here's another explanation of ported vs. manifold vacuum.
Thank you for posting that Mike. I personally don't care which source ya'll use for your vac advance, i'm happy with what i do. But there were some posts earlier which really made me have to bite my tongue.
I agree. Really there is no proper answer. Each engine has different timing needs. I think I'll play with mine this morning to see if there is a difference. Mine seems to like a lot of initial advance and runs cleaner when I give it that. Manifold vacuum may help that. I notice that mine runs hotter with less initial and ported vacuum. Manifold vacuum may help that too. As to what is causing the popping noise in the original post, I don't have a clue. Could be something as simple as spark plug heat range. That fixed mine. tmm
I agree. Really there is no proper answer. Each engine has different timing needs. I think I'll play with mine this morning to see if there is a difference. Mine seems to like a lot of initial advance and runs cleaner when I give it that. Manifold vacuum may help that. I notice that mine runs hotter with less initial and ported vacuum. Manifold vacuum may help that too. As to what is causing the popping noise in the original post, I don't have a clue. Could be something as simple as spark plug heat range. That fixed mine. tmm
I posted early here and tried to convey to the op, if it was ok and you changed/touched "X" ( dizzy, ign.wiring, plug wires, etc.) and have a problem the you have to look at "X" as the source. Then other issues slowly surfaced and it kinda got out of control after that.
I like vac adv on engines that produce 12" vacuum or more. Anything less i do away with it. I figure the cam, converter and gearing required to make a engine like that work well kinda throws economy out the window anyways. Not recommending anything, just what i do.
Good luck with your experiment, never hurts to try something. I actually get enjoyment out of tinkering.
I'll send $500 to the charity of your choice if you post how to do this on Youtube. .
Prioritized?
Carb.
Timing.
VA.
Oil burning.
In that order.
If it were mine.
ok, i'm taking it to a shop then because i dont know how in the hell this engine could possibly have a miss?? QUOTE]
This is the wisest thing you have said since this thread started. You are obviously in way over your capabilities and are taking a lot of chances with destroying a prefectly good engine. More parts you don't need will just throwing more money away. Find a real pro that knows these engines and take it to be repaired. Don't take it to a ricer shop either.
Here is a question that you should be posting... "Does anyone know a good Mopar mechanic near Drummond, Montana".
The main thing i wanna find out right now is where tht oil is coming in at. And lot of you have suggested the valve seals? Or valve guides, Some have mentioned pistons, but i dont think i hurt my pistons. i can start it up and shut off 10 times in a row and watch the exhaust and it never smokes upos start up. It only smoke when driving down the road relatively hard and backing off the throttle then the light blue smoke comes out the exhaust, and mainly only on the drivers side exhaust pipe.
I know the leakdown test will give more answers, but i have a feeling i will be replacing the cylinder heads. You guys gotta remember too this motor is 11 years old and my old man didnt exactly abuse it, but he ran it hard a fair share of times too. Granted he knew what he was doing when he worked on the engine, but he never really had to repair any hard parts on the engine its self. And this engine was fuel injected for most its life. My old man bought it as a crate hooked fuel injection too it and ran the crane cams fire ball ignition on it and ran it that way for 8 or 9 years.
The oil was always changed with synthetic and its always had premium fuel ran thru it, who knows maybe the valve seals or whatever is letting the oil by was messed up when i got the engine and i just never noticed it? But whatever it is, i will get it fixed.
ok, i'm taking it to a shop then because i dont know how in the hell this engine could possibly have a miss?? QUOTE]
This is the wisest thing you have said since this thread started. You are obviously in way over your capabilities and are taking a lot of chances with destroying a prefectly good engine. More parts you don't need will just throwing more money away. Find a real pro that knows these engines and take it to be repaired. Don't take it to a ricer shop either.
Here is a question that you should be posting... "Does anyone know a good Mopar mechanic near Drummond, Montana".
Just take it to a shop that is known for being able to diagnose & repair dirveability issues. Chances are if you waste your time looking around for a guy who just knows old mopars you'll be probably getting more of the same as here. You may just end up with Bubba who used to work on his Duzder & dat ran good. Not much business in that anymore. Any good qualified technician with skills in driveability should be able to diagnose this in a couple of hours or less. I've been a foreign car specialist most of my professional career, now I own one of those so called "ricer shops". Muscle cars are my passion & hobby though, & I can tell you I've solved more than my share of problems caused & made worse by guy who were the so called "experts" on these older cars. It doesn't matter what brand of car it is the same rules apply to diagnosis & repair.
Take it to a qualified shop.