Mopar HEI GM style distributor

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340wedge1971

340wedge1971

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Has anyone tried or heard of these new GM style HEI mopar distributors that are on ebay?I guess they have the module and ballast resister built in them....they are only $45 also,pretty cheap upgrade if it works...any thoughts?
 

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I'd hit it! Gut it and put you favorite advance and pick up in it. But the HEI module is superior to the Mopar ECU anyway so it could be a winner.
 
What happens if your in a bind and you need a part to get it running? every thing fails at one time or another. where can you go ?
 
i have a buddy that ran one in 383 said they are junk due to getting to hot. ive never ran one but i dont care for anything gm on my mopars. my mopar performance electronic ignition set up works flawlessly and i have tons of spare parts...just my $ 0.02
 
Oldmanmopar it is for that reason why i never put on in my car .These have been around for at least 7 or 8 years that i know of or i have been looking at for at least this long and i think DUI was the first to offer it.I use a gm HEI set up in my sons 71 fj40 with straight six.
And i was a good move.Hey just order a back up here's a link

http://www.performancedistributors.com/dodgebbdui.htm
 
Oldmanmopar said:
What happens if your in a bind and you need a part to get it running? every thing fails at one time or another. where can you go ?
Click to expand...

Agreed.

At least with the stock Chrysler setup everyone carries a spare box & ballast in the glovebox (along with a spare voltage regulator) LOL

On my '74 I've got an Accel 300+ Ignition & Coil, plus the stock ignition system & coil just in case. It's a simple matter of unplugging a few things and plugging the stock stuff back in if it lets me sit somewhere. Provided the Pickup Coil isn't the problem, of course.

In regards to the HEI Distributors from Ebay, There's a guy on RamchargerCentral that bought one and it failed shortly after he got it. Not that I'm surprised, the same problem plagues the "self contained" HEI/Distributor setup on the Chebies too. Too much heat with nowhere to go, at least with most HEI Conversions, the module is mounted outside of the Dist (usually on a heat sink) so the heat issue is taken care of.
 
I don't like the fact that what ever goes wrong your pulling that distributor. On the chrysler set up all can be diagnosed with it in.
 
There is another thread here about the same unit:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=166982

Like I said there, it is not a bad part for the price. The term "HEI" gets tossed around a lot, but really that is only a GM item. That unit is more like a Pertronix is electrically. The trigger is bigger with more iron, so the electronics are mounted under that chrome cover.

The old mopar box on the firewall is similar in function to the GM HEI, the Pertronix, Ford TFI, etc. They are all electronic "switches" that replace the points. None of them are CDI ignitions.

Since the Pertronix is mounted inside the distributor, it runs close to engine temperature. They seem to work fairly well in that location.
The HEI in a GM car is bolted to the distributor body for a heat sink - they will fail if they don't have a big sink. I know GM owners that carry a spare & the tools to change the module because they crap out all the time.

Plenty of people here have had the mopar box or pickup fail too. As I said in that other thread, the mopar box you buy today is made in china just like this distributor...

Be thankful for mopar distributors. You can yank one out, do what you need to do & drop it right back in. Other makes have a bigger challenge.

B.
 
I've got another thread going on the same topic.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=166982

I've contacted the vendors to ask questions and posted the answers. I've ordered the distributor and now I just have to choose and order the coil to go with it.

I guess if you're really worried about reliability you could buy two of them and carry the spare in the trunk. You'd still be in only around $100, $200 if you double up on coils too. From what I've read, aftermarket coils seem to have a pretty high failure rate.
 
I bought one from skipwhite on ebay, plus his $20 E-core coil. Haven't installed yet. The distributor looks rugged, with a more robust looking pickup than the old Mopar. The ignitor is the standard looking GM HEI or Accel after-market type. I will carry a spare.

The guy who mentioned one failing on a 383 must be referring to another HEI distributor. SkipWhite's site says they only have for RB currently. BB is expected in the future.

I already had a set of plug wires from a Grand Cherokee Magnum that fit the cap. Those are nice, silicone w/ each wire labelled, and real cheap at PickNPull. I also got the Magnum's E-core coil that mounts on the front of the right head somehow (long coil wire). I also got a GM HEI "external coil" and connector in a box of parts. I may try all 3, though a Blaster 2 round coil would fit better.

I got an MSD Stacker ignition cheap off ebay that I may try too. I would like to open my plugs to 0.060" gap so I can run leaner for better mileage. You know when too far since it will start missing when you go wide throttle at 40 mph on a freeway ramp. That started happening in my 2.4L until I lowered the gap to 0.050". My eventual plan is LS1 coils for each cyl, in which case this distributor will be in the trunk as backup.
 
Rather than do that, I'm simply running a Mopar breakerless distro, with a GM HEI module. So it's all off the shelf parts, and I'm not using a ballast with my unknown stock coil.
 
Rather than do that, I'm simply running a Mopar breakerless distro, with a GM HEI module. So it's all off the shelf parts
Click to expand...

thats how i'm going to do it also. seems to me to be the best way. something breaks ya can get parts pretty fast and easy.
 
Ok, let's post the more important pics - what is inside:

NingBo1.jpg


NingBo2.jpg


Under that chrome cover is a small module. You could probably replace it with a GM module if you wanted to, or just connect the pickup wires to your mopar box or MSD. Or buy a spare module for the glovebox if you are worried about it.

The important thing here is picture two. The magnetic reluctor. A big improvement over OEM. The speed at which the tip of the trigger passes the stationary point has a lot to do with output. The larger ring means that the tip is moving faster at cranking speeds. More signal at low speeds. Better.
Eight points too.

I don't work for Skip White. I don't work for anybody involved in making or selling this unit. But I can say the few I have had in my hands were well made. All new parts. Good bearings. A decent part for the price.

The instructions that come with them are poor. I would bet most of the failures people have had were installation mistakes. It should hook up just like a Pertronix if you need instructions written in english.

Later this month I will drop this one in & have a look at things with the scope. I may hook the trigger up to an MSD 6 for fun.

B.
 
I have one on my 354. I was told by a freind of mine that has a auto shop that hes never seen one go bad. He said that there very well made but they are mechanical. even the best of stuff breaks down. I got mine from Hot Rods USA.
 
i will run 1 in my duster with all msd stuff
this 1 here is a procomp
i would rather have a msd dist for my small block
but owell
 

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That Procomp one looks just like the ~$45 one I bought on ebay. It also has the "plug hold-down" cap, not in the O.P. photo. I would guess from the same factory. I'm betting that Procomp charges a bit more for branding it.
 
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