Motor Mounts

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danielb927

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I'm trying to put in my new exhaust and it won't fit, it looks like the engine is not sitting high enough off of the K-member so I'm guessing I need new motor mounts. Where do I get some? Not sure if there are a lot of differences but this is a 360 out of a 75 on a 73 Duster. Here's a picture of the driver's side, it looks like maybe it's pretty old and I could use some new ones? The TTI book said I needed 5.5" from the center of the crank to the K-member and I measured 4.5-4.75, and the idler arm is hitting the right headpipe coming off the manifold.

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NAPA is my local go to store, great counter men and good part's.
Yes you will raise your engine an easy 3/4'' whit a new one.
And if you need to you can shim it with thick large washers at the bottom
 
Do I need a hoist or can I do it with wood blocks and a jack under the engine? And I just buy the rubber piece there?
 
Let a good tec jump in on this daniel, remember to unbolt the trans mount and don't smash or loose a finger, But I could be wrong on how much your trans mount will move.
watch the other side as it goes up because the manifold will get close I think

I say let an experienced tec jump in and see where and how to lift that side of your engine. It should not have to move up very far, and do your wrenching with it resting on the motor mounts then jack it up if a tec here thinks it can be dun
Be very careful a hand or finger won't grow back
 
Shouldn't a 73 have the newer type motor mounts? Those look like the older ones. Just make sure you get the mounts that look like the ones you have now.
 
mancini racing mag mounts are stronger then stock and about $50 bucks i believe.
 
Can someone chime in on if I can do this at home without a hoist or should I just pop the old exhaust back on for a bit and drive it to a shop?
 
Shouldn't a 73 have the newer type motor mounts? Those look like the older ones. Just make sure you get the mounts that look like the ones you have now.

It appears he has the earlier 67-72 style K-member..My guess is that originally it was a slant 6 car, and the previous owner swapped an earlier style V-8 k-member.


Can someone chime in on if I can do this at home without a hoist or should I just pop the old exhaust back on for a bit and drive it to a shop?

You SHOULD be able to do it your self... without a hoist, but be very careful when jacking the engine up...
 
Last question before the new mounts get here: do I need to loosen the tranny mount when replacing the motor mounts or no? And after I have them in, do I need to do any checking of alignment or anything like that to make sure the drivetrain is straight? These will be adding a fair amount of height and so I know the tranny is going to have to at least rotate to line up, want to make sure I don't put too much stress on it or something like that.

Oh, and check out how flat the driver's side mount is! Hopefully I'll end up with a nicer ride after this is done too.

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Be sure to cut a nice wood block to fit your oil pan so you are picking it up on the edges not in the center. You shouldn't have to loosen the tranny mount. But you will want to remove your fan shroud if you have one. Just take the bolts out so it will move with the motor. You might need to remove your distributor cap also depending on how much firewall room you have. You will bust a knuckle or two since you will be working in tight quarters. Be patient.
 
I'm not sure if the new mounts will allow the exhaust to clear. Exhaust work needs to be done in a shop that can bend the pipes a bit and even cut and weld sometimes.

If the new mounts don't do the trick I would just unbolt the new exhaust, wire it up out of the way and let a exhaust shop make those pipes clear.
 
I'm not sure if the new mounts will allow the exhaust to clear. Exhaust work needs to be done in a shop that can bend the pipes a bit and even cut and weld sometimes.

If the new mounts don't do the trick I would just unbolt the new exhaust, wire it up out of the way and let a exhaust shop make those pipes clear.

That would be a pain, for 600 bucks I was hoping they would fit like they were supposed to...

Those of you that used shims, just large washers or something different? I am a little worried that even if it fits with new mounts, once they sag down it will hit the idler arm again...
 
Well, I got my motor mounts today. We changed the driver's side no problem and used 1 washer under it for a shim. There was absolutely no way to get the passengers side one off of the engine, so we just put three washers under it and now it clears. It wasn't too hard of a job with another set of hands and the right tools, but to get that passenger's side I'd have to unbolt the motor mount bracket from the engine. But, the drivers side still doesn't clear the kickdown linkage, shifter lever, and tranny lines, so I am thinking about taking dodge freak's advice and taking it to a shop. Other option is to get a new kickdown cable and tranny cooler lines.
 
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