[Found!] Mr Gasket Verti Gate A-body shift rods and Mount.

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You'll have to cut some out of the front and back or possibly the side of your 4-speed floor hump to make it fit. If I'm not mistaken a little bit of the Cross frame as well...
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Yes I do. But I want to secure the shift linkage before I make the mount.
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the idea is once you make the mount then you know the straight distance between the two throws. You put the lock pin in the vertigate and put the ears in neutral and then you know how long you have to make you're all thread between your hem joints..
 
Roy, if I remember right, aren't the two main rods the same for the Vertigate and Ram Rod? I'm almost positive that's right. There's a seller on ebay that's always selling different linkage kits. Maybe you would have some luck there. I've never seen them cheap, but they are bonifide Hurst linkage.
 
When I made mine at Ace hardware I cheated and used my cheap h/f welder to save money and not buy another expensive hem joint. At one end of the all thread I welded tabs to put a small bolt through. A couple more hemp joints to screw on the other end would have probably just cost me another 30 or $40..
I'm sure I could have and still may get stock linkage but I've been running this homemade stuff for about 3 years and had a really nice drive with it yesterday. You can never beat that second to third shift with a V- gate....
Really this should be fab-work 101. Cut that piece of cardboard out for the bracket and get a piece of quarter inch steel and cut that out and center punch the five holes and drill them. Once the shifter is mounted it's a simple measurement from point A to point B and 45 minutes at Ace Hardware putting together couplers and such and maybe having to cut down a piece of all thread.
I can get up under my car and take more pictures and I could probably even give you pre measurements of both lengths of rods eye hole to eye hole? As I recall I was able to use the adjuster part of a regular shift rod set, and couple it on to all thread to a hem joint to the ear on the trans. (But like I said I cheaped out and welded tabs to the other end of the all thread instead of a hem joint to the transmission ear.)
 
I think you'll need the plate and a couple standoffs for between the plate and shifter mechanism, along with the shifter levers.
My 1-2, 3-4 are basically two straights with 3/8"-24 threads (I believe) and pivots at the shifter. The reverse runs under the trans crossmember. I'm not keen on it but that's the way it came and it works.
Some pictures I dug up.....

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Daves69 said:
I think you'll need the plate and a couple standoffs for between the plate and shifter mechanism, along with the shifter levers.
My 1-2, 3-4 are basically two straights with 3/8"-24 threads (I believe) and pivots at the shifter. The reverse runs under the trans crossmember. I'm not keen on it but that's the way it came and it works.
Some pictures I dug up.....

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I’ll have to crawl under the car and look to be sure, but I believe I turned my reverse lever around and upside down and it now goes over the crossmember. I think I remember trimming the floor pan just a wee bit to make it fit this way but now it’s tucked up out of the way.
 
SSG_Karg said:
I’ll have to crawl under the car and look to be sure, but I believe I turned my reverse lever around and upside down and it now goes over the crossmember. I think I remember trimming the floor pan just a wee bit to make it fit this way but now it’s tucked up out of the way.
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Yup, now that you say that I did have to turn the reverse lever upside down as well as switch my first second - 3rd 4th shifter ears...
Lord willing I'll be changing my oil tomorrow and I'll try to remember to get some real close up pictures of my homemade stuff. Maybe even some measurements if I want to get real tricky.
 
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My homemade bracket. Looks like I got new bolts and used 2" spacers to align with the shifter levers.
 
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I put an ad on here looking for someone who had a bracket they could throw out on a piece of paper and trace out for me. It took a couple months but someone finally seen my ad and did so. And in very nice fashion as well. I wish I could remember that members name to give them full credit...
 
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I took those stock pieces that go through the shifter ear and found at the hardware store a piece threaded Rod something like carburetor studs. Where one end is fine thread and the other end is coarse thread. I was able to twist the fine thread into the stock end peace and then the coarse thread I was able to use a coupler to get it onto some allthread. Like I was saying I welded tabs on to the other end of the all thread, but I could have easily coupled some hem joints on... If that makes sense?
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The first second shifter measured right at about 7 and 3/4 in and the third fourth shifter was right at 12 and 1/2 in from Center to center of eye.
 
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SGBARRACUDA said:
I'm building a car around a Verti gate, As such, I don't own a 4 speed. Hence I can't build the rods?
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Well then have patience Grasshopper when you get the transmission bolt the shifter up and measure...
That's how I did it, that way it's all sorted out before it goes in..
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
I'm building a car around a Verti gate, As such, I don't own a 4 speed. Hence I can't build the rods?
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Also you can connect the transmission crossmember on to the bottom of the transmission to make sure you're going to clear that with your reverse rod and the forward gears are just straight rods..
 
Also it's hard to remember when I switch 4 speed controllers every couple of years but like I was saying I'm pretty sure I switching the leavers around. With the regular Hurst 4-speed I need the ear with the bend in it on the first second lever and the straight one on the third fourth lever, but it's the opposite with the vgate. I need the one with the bend in it on the 3rd 4th leaver and the straight one on the first second....
 
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