My 160 (1965) slant 3 on tree

[67Signet]

I have a slant I am hoping to get a lil more performance from it.

Once warmed up seems to idle ok and on the road in first gear seems to do ok 2nd gear ok about mid way but loses power and 3rd never seems to get there,
Almost like the advance isnt working but Ive checked it.
I have not adjusted valves yet but I intend to and Ive located a super six set up as well as electronic ignition but before install I need to know .

(So if you see a better way please let me here from you)

Since I want more performance and I know it will need some parts to get it there I dont want to chase gremlins on a set up I wont use.
I am just looking for more power and I dont want to loose ay gas mileage

please help!

With a stock 160 slant and the three speed I would like to add a 225 slant head but I am not sure if that would be too much flow?
so would I leave it stock or should i mill the head a bit for compression?

and which head do I look for as I`read that the 73 head and up are considered along with the matching cam to be '''factory performance pieces'' plus hardened for unleaded gas. and if true should i mill it and bowl blend and port match as i will not be swapping pistons.

225 head on 160 stock block with super six set up and electronic ignition with a straight 2 and1/4 exhaust with the factory three on the tree and if i can find the correct 3 spd linkage (so I can loose the 3 on the tree).
Also I have the Kelsy Hayes calipers and the rotors so do I just need the bigger ball joints on the LCAs to run them I have the 9 inch drums so I use the 9 inch spindle with the KH set up

thank you for your attention and wisdom in advance!:thumrigh:

 

[slantsixdan]

There's nothing such as a 160 slant-6. The two slant-6 displacements were 170 and 225 from 1960 until 1969, then 198 and 225 from 1970-'74, then 225 only from then on up. Cylinder head differences are by production year, not by engine displacement (170 and 225 had the same head, for example). The stock cam was made slightly warmer in '65 and again in '71, but none of the factory cams is a "performance piece". Do not randomly mill the head -- you'd need to measure the combustion chamber volumes first to figure out just how much to mill.

You'll hear the name "Clifford" come up, but be very careful before you decide to spend any money with Clifford. They have a long and ugly reputation for being a bunch of clowns; see for example here, here, here, here, and here. Much of what they sell is inaccurately described, and a lot of it is not even slightly cost-effective. The good news is that you don't need to go to Clifford to get hot rod parts for slant-6s; there are lots of other, better options. See for example Dutra Duals and header options discussed in this thread and this one, Erson custom cams, HEI ignition upgrade, Mike Jeffreys windage trays, Hurricane intakes, other exotic intakes. Hi-perf engine buildup here, high-perf parts and build info here.

 

[62 Signet]

Anyone ever think about a /6 intake with 3 single barrels on top rather than the Webers and SU's on the side? Seems like the stock 1 barrels would be easier to adjust and make for a really cool setup.

 

[cudamark]

There's nothing such as a 160 slant-6. The two slant-6 displacements were 170 and 225 from 1960 until 1969, then 198 and 225 from 1970-'74, then 225 only from then on up. Cylinder head differences are by production year, not by engine displacement (170 and 225 had the same head, for example). The stock cam was made slightly warmer in '65 and again in '71, but none of the factory cams is a "performance piece". Do not randomly mill the head -- you'd need to measure the combustion chamber volumes first to figure out just how much to mill.

You'll hear the name "Clifford" come up, but be very careful before you decide to spend any money with Clifford. They have a long and ugly reputation for being a bunch of clowns; see for example here, here, here, here, and here. Much of what they sell is inaccurately described, and a lot of it is not even slightly cost-effective. The good news is that you don't need to go to Clifford to get hot rod parts for slant-6s; there are lots of other, better options. See for example Dutra Duals and header options discussed in this thread and this one, Erson custom cams, HEI ignition upgrade, Mike Jeffreys windage trays, Hurricane intakes, other exotic intakes. Hi-perf engine buildup here, high-perf parts and build info here.

X2.....and to answer some of your other questions....you may have a fuel delivery shortage to the carb that is causing your lose of power under high demand. Make sure all the components are free and clear of obstructions from the sender to the carb inlet. A fuel pump pressure/volume test will reveal that as a problem or not. It's not likely a timing problem as it would be a problem in 1st as well as the other gears. If you do much in performance enhancement mods, you'll usually get worse mileage. It's not likely you'll improve both unless your improvement repairs a basic problem the car has now. The 903 manual trans you have in it now won't hold up to perfomance use. Neither will the 7 1/4 rear end for that matter. On your disc brake changeover, you'll need the proper disc brake spindles for your Kelsey Hayes rotors and calipers. Your existing lower ball joints will work if you drill out the mounting holes for the larger, disc brake type, bolts. If your ball joints aren't in real good shape, just get some new ones for the disc setup.