"Dart67"
Well-Known Member
My Cooling Improvement Project - Part 2
I decided to start a new thread to document the changes/mods that I have made since the unfortunate loss of the first radiator.
Here is the link to the first post for those that may not have followed this project:My Cooling Improvement Project (hopefully)
Some of these changes/mods were planned some were not.
While waiting for my new Wizard Cooling 1640-200 Radiator here is what I have done.
First I pulled and checked the thermostat.
I had thought that I had installed a 160* thermostat.
I had actually installed a 180* thermostat.That is what is now in the car.
One thing I do to the thermostat is to drill Six evenly space holes around the edge for trapped air bleeds. This insures that at least one or two holes are open should the gasket slip a little when installed.
The Second thing that I did was to tap the bypass hole in the aluminum water pump housing with a 1/2" x 24 tap.
I then cut about 3/8" off the end of a 1/2" x 24 bolt and drilled a 1/8" air bleed hole in it.
This was installed with thread sealer into the now threaded bypass hole.
I have read that this little mod helps keep water returning to the radiator from mixing with the "cooled" water coming from the radiator.
At this point I see NO ill effects from this mod other that the engine seems to take longer to reach operating temp.
The third thing was to install my "old" 6 blade aluminum air condition water pump with my "Home-Brewed" cavitation plate.
I had used this pump for a number of years and miles and am sure that it has no problems.
The fourth thing was to change the March Pulleys from the 1:1 ratio to the 1.4:1 Air Conditioning pulley ratio.
The pulley sizes for the 1:1 ratio are: Crank 5.875" Water Pump 5.875".
The pulley sizes for the 1.4:1 ratio are: Crank 6.875" Water Pump 4.75".
The fifth thing was to make a frame/shroud for the duel 11" Spall paddle blade electric fans that I had used in the past.
Once the new radiator arrived all I had to do was bolt the fans to the radiator and install the assembly into the car.
Prior to installing the new radiator, I power flushed the engine to make sure there was nothing in it.
The engine flushed clean.
After installing, I filled the cooling system with distilled water and about 4 to 5 ounces of Fleetguard DCA60L.
I have used this product in the past. It proctects the aluminum parts and also helps control cavitation.
The last thing I did was to install a new hood to core support seal.
This seal keeps the engine heat from being drawn back over the top of the core support and into the radiator.
This brings things up to date as far as changes and mods are concerned.
Now for the GOOD PART I HOPE!!!!
I took the car for a short drive on Saturday. The temp was 75*. I drove 2 miles from my house to the main highway and 2 miles back to the shop.
The road is hilly and curvy all the way so I drive it most of the way it first and second gear.
I tried to dog it to build as much heat as I could.
When I got back to the shop the temp gauge showed 160* -165*.
I took the car out again today on the same round trip with the temp at 93* and high humidity.
I stopped for a few minutes at the half way point and idled in gear while I talked with a neighbor.
When I pulled back into the shop, the temp gauge showed just above 180*. The thermostat had just opened.
At the present, I have the fans on a manual on/off switch.
I am driving the car with the F.A.S.T XFI removed. I am using my old MSD Pro Billet distributor and an old 850 Holley carb.
When I am sure that I have the cooling issue under control, I will go back to the F.A.S.T XFI and get it tuned.
I still need to take the car on a longer trip at highway speeds, BUT when I started this project, I could not drive this 4 mile round trip without being in the 250* - 260* range.
At this point I think I am on the right track.
Herb
I decided to start a new thread to document the changes/mods that I have made since the unfortunate loss of the first radiator.
Here is the link to the first post for those that may not have followed this project:My Cooling Improvement Project (hopefully)
Some of these changes/mods were planned some were not.
While waiting for my new Wizard Cooling 1640-200 Radiator here is what I have done.
First I pulled and checked the thermostat.
I had thought that I had installed a 160* thermostat.
I had actually installed a 180* thermostat.That is what is now in the car.
One thing I do to the thermostat is to drill Six evenly space holes around the edge for trapped air bleeds. This insures that at least one or two holes are open should the gasket slip a little when installed.
The Second thing that I did was to tap the bypass hole in the aluminum water pump housing with a 1/2" x 24 tap.
I then cut about 3/8" off the end of a 1/2" x 24 bolt and drilled a 1/8" air bleed hole in it.
This was installed with thread sealer into the now threaded bypass hole.
I have read that this little mod helps keep water returning to the radiator from mixing with the "cooled" water coming from the radiator.
At this point I see NO ill effects from this mod other that the engine seems to take longer to reach operating temp.
The third thing was to install my "old" 6 blade aluminum air condition water pump with my "Home-Brewed" cavitation plate.
I had used this pump for a number of years and miles and am sure that it has no problems.
The fourth thing was to change the March Pulleys from the 1:1 ratio to the 1.4:1 Air Conditioning pulley ratio.
The pulley sizes for the 1:1 ratio are: Crank 5.875" Water Pump 5.875".
The pulley sizes for the 1.4:1 ratio are: Crank 6.875" Water Pump 4.75".
The fifth thing was to make a frame/shroud for the duel 11" Spall paddle blade electric fans that I had used in the past.
Once the new radiator arrived all I had to do was bolt the fans to the radiator and install the assembly into the car.
Prior to installing the new radiator, I power flushed the engine to make sure there was nothing in it.
The engine flushed clean.
After installing, I filled the cooling system with distilled water and about 4 to 5 ounces of Fleetguard DCA60L.
I have used this product in the past. It proctects the aluminum parts and also helps control cavitation.
The last thing I did was to install a new hood to core support seal.
This seal keeps the engine heat from being drawn back over the top of the core support and into the radiator.
This brings things up to date as far as changes and mods are concerned.
Now for the GOOD PART I HOPE!!!!
I took the car for a short drive on Saturday. The temp was 75*. I drove 2 miles from my house to the main highway and 2 miles back to the shop.
The road is hilly and curvy all the way so I drive it most of the way it first and second gear.
I tried to dog it to build as much heat as I could.
When I got back to the shop the temp gauge showed 160* -165*.
I took the car out again today on the same round trip with the temp at 93* and high humidity.
I stopped for a few minutes at the half way point and idled in gear while I talked with a neighbor.
When I pulled back into the shop, the temp gauge showed just above 180*. The thermostat had just opened.
At the present, I have the fans on a manual on/off switch.
I am driving the car with the F.A.S.T XFI removed. I am using my old MSD Pro Billet distributor and an old 850 Holley carb.
When I am sure that I have the cooling issue under control, I will go back to the F.A.S.T XFI and get it tuned.
I still need to take the car on a longer trip at highway speeds, BUT when I started this project, I could not drive this 4 mile round trip without being in the 250* - 260* range.
At this point I think I am on the right track.
Herb
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