My heat sucks

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I'm so lost. I'm having the exact same issue. I've read a few posts about leaves in the heater housing....where exactly would these leaves be?? And what are the little doors on each side of the vehicle on the inside, that you can open and air comes in from? Stupid, amateur questions, I know!
 
I'm so lost. I'm having the exact same issue. I've read a few posts about leaves in the heater housing....where exactly would these leaves be?? And what are the little doors on each side of the vehicle on the inside, that you can open and air comes in from? Stupid, amateur questions, I know!

the 2 doors you can open by hand a fresh air vents.
The heated air enters through the vents in the cowl below the windshield. That air must pass through a heater core ( similar to a radiator ) to pick up warmth. So leaves and stuff collect on the incoming side of that heater core just like bugs in your radiator. To pull that heater core is the same chore wheather you clean it or replace it. Ask me which I would do. Yes I'm going to replace it.
 
Had a 75 Duster, that put out no heat when I bought it(was -32 that day, and a 60 mile drive home)took it to station across the street, heater controls unhooked, I hooked them back up, still no heat. Took it to another shop the next weekend, the tank heater(plug in heater to warm up engine coolant, so it doesn't have to run as long to warm up)was plugged, had them replace it, after that it would about drive a person out of the car.
 
If yours is not a factory AC car, it is fairly easy to remove the heater box in your Dart. First remove the glovebox inside shell. Be careful since that is cardboard (replacements available). As I recall, the wiring and cables are so simple you don't even need to label them (no vacuum hoses if non-AC). Once you pull the box, everything will appear simple and obvious, and a great chance to clean out the dead rodents and candy bars that give that "old car aroma". I am basing that on my 65 non-AC box. My 69 Dart's was complicated, but that was factory AC. One trick is the nuts at the bottom of the long rods that run up the fresh air vents to hook the cowl at the top. Use WD-40 once you find them.

I like 65-440's explanation of his blocked water flow experience. At first, I braced myself for another strange "too high water velocity" type theories people throw out that conflicts with Physics, but it make sense that the water might not be flowing but the hoses could still get hot on both sides from natural convection within the hose on each side. Of course, testing the heater core alone with a garden hose could easily determine if plugged, but be careful since home water runs 60 psi and can break a perfectly good heater core. New ones for a Dart are pretty cheap ($30 for mine), much better than my Mercedes 300D (~$400).
 
Switch the heaterhoses at their fittings on the waterpump, or at the firewall. Whichever is easier.

Most likely the flow of water is the wrong way around through the heatercore, trapping air in it, instead of expelling it.
 
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