My rust removal experiment - photos

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bighammer

bighammer

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Likely you've seen or heard of this method before. I just wanted to post up my results to show you how mine came out.

I had this old intake laying around so I decided to use it as my test subject.
 

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Here is the manifold after 1 1/2 days at 30 amps.

What I use was the "electrolysis" method of removing rust. You will need:

A plastic tub or bucket
A box of washing soda
A battery charger (plus battery cables if you're using two anodes)
A piece or two of scrap metal (sacrificial metal / anode)


If you have a sandblaster, it would be quicker, but messier, and will also remove some of the good, clean metal. This might be a problem if you are repairing sheet metal parts.

In a plastic tub or 5 gallon bucket add plain water. Add 1 tablespoon of "washing soda" (not baking soda) per gallon of water. Mix until dissolved.

Place your object into the bath and clamp the NEGATIVE lead from the charger to it.

Now place your anode (sacrificial metal) into the water, but don't let it touch the part you are cleaning. Attach the POSITIVE cable to the anode.

(Note, if you want to speed up the process, use one or more anodes, just use the jumper cables to connect the anodes together)

I set my charger at 30 amps, less than that will work, but may take longer. After about 1 1/2 days I pulled it out. Here are the pictures.
 

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This is what your sacrificial metal 'anode' will look like after doing its job:
 

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Wow. That works pretty good.


How much risk is there of "burning out" your battery charger while doing this?

Chance of electricution?
 
Dart_Doctor said:
Karl it looks like it could put a tingle in your dingle if you do it wrong .
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Yes, that's what I'm cautious about. I don't like when my dingle gets a tingle, unless it's from a woman.... :eek:ops:


Then I just noticed that the cover is off of his electrical panel in the picture of post #3.... :eek:ops:



I guess you could say that the results are "shocking".... :eek:ops:
 
I have yet to do this myself but have a friend that has restored about 25 case tractors and has 4 tubs of this method going. He hardly uses the sand blaster anymore just puts parts in the tubs and takes them out 24 hours later .

Posted via Topify on Android
 
I've been meaning to try this myself. I would think this makes hydrogen gas, IE water, H and O2 so a ventilated area..............
 
Another good way is to use the mollasses method it does a really good job and it wont give you a shock. I have done it with a rear end turned out great! SORRY NO PICTURES!
 
I may be missing something, but it seems to me the new chelating agents (like Evaporust) are a whole lot easier. A day in a tub of one of them and that part would be spotless. Super easy.
I do like that green effect though :)
 
There is another method that was discussed on Moparts. This shows very good results.

Mix up a Witch's Brew of 1/2 gallon of white vinegar with 8 oz of lemon juice concentrate and 1/3 cup of table salt. multiply this formula as needed depending on project size. Soak rusted parts for as long as needed (in most cases a few days) until rust is gone. This mix is cheap compared to evaporust or other commercial products. It can be stored in plastic a container and reused a few times until it looses it strength.

There are pictures of before and after results and more detailed explanation at Moparts

Russ
 
Idaho said:
I may be missing something, but it seems to me the new chelating agents (like Evaporust) are a whole lot easier. A day in a tub of one of them and that part would be spotless. Super easy.
I do like that green effect though :)
Click to expand...

The method above is extremely low cost vs buying a chemical. The mollasses method is low cost too.
 
Russ H said:
Mix up a Witch's Brew of 1/2 gallon of white vinegar with 8 oz of lemon juice concentrate and 1/3 cup of table salt.
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Hmmm........ I use this mixture on a smaller scale when I grill my baby back ribs.

No wonder they aren't rusty. :-D
 
krazykuda said:
Wow. That works pretty good.


How much risk is there of "burning out" your battery charger while doing this?

Chance of electricution?
Click to expand...

Lol, I don't think there is much risk of "shock" I put my hands directly in the water while it was turned on, no problems! As far as wear and tear on your charger, it is no different than if you were actually charging a battery.
 
ok , ill try again LOL, would this take the paint and grease off a set of hood hinges , any body know?
 
67Dart273 said:
I've been meaning to try this myself. I would think this makes hydrogen gas, IE water, H and O2 so a ventilated area..............
Click to expand...

Yes, hydrogen gas so ventilation...

"Another good way is to use the mollasses method it does a really good job and it wont give you a shock. I have done it with a rear end turned out great! SORRY NO PICTURES!"

Yes, molasses works well too, as long as you're not in a hurry. It usually takes about 6 weeks to obtain similar results.

"I may be missing something, but it seems to me the new chelating agents (like Evaporust) are a whole lot easier. A day in a tub of one of them and that part would be spotless. Super easy.
I do like that green effect though"

The green that you see is the paint that was originally on the intake. There was so much rust on it you couldn't see the paint. I've never used Evaporust, but I'm sure it works great too.
 
73AbodEE said:
ok , ill try again LOL, would this take the paint and grease off a set of hood hinges , any body know?
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No, it won't. It only reacts to rusted metal. The grease will probably prevent the process from working on the rust since it would be 'sealed' in.

You can see the green paint that was on my manifold after the rust was removed.
 
bighammer said:
No, it won't. It only reacts to rusted metal. The grease will probably prevent the process from working on the rust since it would be 'sealed' in.

You can see the green paint that was on my manifold after the rust was removed.
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that's what I was afraid of, but thanks for the reply :glasses7:
 
Something to keep in mind if you're going to try this... My first attempt yielded very little results. I discovered that my sacrificial metal was already too rusty to do its job. I took it out and cleaned it up to get down to clean metal, then it worked great. You will see the water 'simmer' around the anode while it is working.
 
bighammer said:
Lol, I don't think there is much risk of "shock" I put my hands directly in the water while it was turned on, no problems! As far as wear and tear on your charger, it is no different than if you were actually charging a battery.
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Even still it just dont look good lol
 
BIG DOG said:
Another good way is to use the mollasses method it does a really good job and it wont give you a shock. I have done it with a rear end turned out great! SORRY NO PICTURES!
Click to expand...


So you can say that you "barbecued your @ss in molasses"??? :bootysha:


Like referenced in one of the Smokey & the Bandit movies, when Bufurd T. Justice says to Bandit, "I'm gonna barbecue your @ss in molasses..." :D
 
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