Need help, Dart won't start...

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Doubtful. Search "Packard 56" terminals. Caveat. Some of them are made differently for other applications. "Generally" Mopars must have the female type where the "sides" "wrap around." I got mine from "clips and fasteners" but last I checked there, the prices had gone up some

Check what your's "are" These here are generally incorrect for older Mopars, these "wrap over" the top

1599x1__87449.1272584851.168.168.jpg


At least for the older cars, this type is what you want

305fspades_lock.jpg


You will get some argument, I don't like to depend on the crimp. I solder mine
 
Am I the only one who gets a chuckle out of this thread...and the OPs screen name?
 
Replaced the broken terminal and I'm getting the same voltage readings. Would the ignition switch be next?
 
Did you check to see if you were getting spark?

Ignition 1
Ignition 2
Brown and blue wire issue?

I’m just throwing stuff out there.
 
skep419 said:
Did you check to see if you were getting spark?

Ignition 1
Ignition 2
Brown and blue wire issue?

I’m just throwing stuff out there.
Click to expand...
I'm trying not to turn it over because of the new cam so I'm just taking voltage readings. It'll crank but that's all. I should be getting at least 9 volts to the positive side of the coil but I'm getting about 7.2
 
Turn the key on
Pull the number one plug
Connect it back up to the plug wire
Use a pliers and hold the spark plug ground strap up against the block.
Use a flathead between the starter relay big post and small post and give it a bump.
Shouldn’t hurt anything.

Did you try and run a jump wire from the battery to the coil like posted earlier?

Air,fuel,spark
 
skep419 said:
Turn the key on
Pull the number one plug
Connect it back up to the plug wire
Use a pliers and hold the spark plug ground strap up against the block.
Use a flathead between the starter relay big post and small post and give it a bump.
Shouldn’t hurt anything.

Did you try and run a jump wire from the battery to the coil like posted earlier?

Air,fuel,spark
Click to expand...
I'm trying to find the problem though. A 2 volt drop somewhere should be an issue, correct?
 
How can I test where I'm losing voltage specifically? As in, where do I plug in my voltmeter to test what connection or wire is the culprit?
 
LivewireBlanco said:
How can I test where I'm losing voltage specifically? As in, where do I plug in my voltmeter to test what connection or wire is the culprit?
Click to expand...

You have to follow it just like a road map, standby............
 
67Dart273 said:
You have to follow it just like a road map, standby............
Click to expand...
I know, but I've been reading several posts that you have helped people with similar problems. I guess I need it dumbed down. As in, plug this in here and this here. I definitely don't want to fry anything.
 
Also, remember this car has an ignition bypass as well. The previous owner installed a button under the dash that is connected to the starter relay. Be said you have to use it to start but the ignition key cranks also...
 
Sorry I got hung up on the phone. Be back later. The resistor bypass is in the ignition switch, if someone did away with that you will not get a hot starting spark. There is a couple ways around that

Just for testing, you could apply power direct from battery to coil + (jumper wire) BUT DO NOT leave that hooked up much longer than to crank and start, or test spark
 
I've been using the key to start it since it works. Actually I've tried both but mainly key.

I really appreciate the help. I've read so many help responses on others with similar issues from you. I wouldn't be too concerned if this cam was already broken in. Even I could try things and crank away.
 
Ok, ignoring the wiring modifications, you need to do "some stuff."

1...Got to MyMopar and download a factory service manual, AND the aftermarket wiring diagram on that site. Those diagrams are sometimes easier to follow, BUT sometimes leave out connectors and options

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - MyMopar Tools/Reference

Closest one is for 71 Plymouth chassis:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1971_Plymouth_Chassis_Service_Manual.zip

Aftermarket diagram:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1971/71DartA.JPG

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1971/71DartB.JPG

2...Read the "MAD" article which goes over some of the pitfalls of the power distribution wiring
Catalog
This diagram is from the MAD site and shows the basic power distribution:

amp-ga18.jpg


This diagram can be useful if you are not familiar with the way these are wired, and gives you points to look up in the service manual. This is the FUNCTIONAL description, not electron flow I'm describing

From the battery power ends up at the "big stud" on the starter relay. This stud acts as a JUNCTION POINT.

From there the FUSE LINK feeds to a terminal in the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR. Through that terminal RED goes to the AMMETER. Through the AMMETER, to the BLACK which goes back out to the alternator

BUT THE BLACK, NOTICE!!!! has a "WELDED SPLICE!!" This splice is wrapped up in the harness, a few inches from the ammeter, under the dash. This branches out and feeds several places depending on year and model.

Feeds:

HEAD LIGHT SWITCH NOTICE THIS IS NOT FUSED!!

Ignition switch

Fuse panel hot buss

So already you have a few places you can "lose voltage" But I would start RIGHT AT the ignition switch. Find the main power into the switch, and compare that reading with the switch "in run" to the IGN1 wire

(Now it's time to read the shop manual......................)

Page 368 is the wiring index

Shows instrument panel, Valiant, standard cluster, page 8-160, 8-160, you end up on page 382 (8-161)

............and you end up with this...........

71switch.jpg
 
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Ok, so basically I clamp a long positive test lead onto positive battery terminal then probe along the ignition circuit path until I see something .5 volts or more?
 
^^That will work I was uploading and typing. Refer to the switch diagram above, right out of the shop book.

Read J1-12R (no 12 RED) which is the main power to the switch in the "run" position which will put a bit of a load on

Then read IGN1, J2-16DBL, a no. 16 Dark BLue

If both those look good, check where the dark blue goes through the bulkhead connector. Again, look at 8-160/ 161 of the manual
 
Ok so I think I found the problem... The previous owner connected the radio to the red ignition wire I believe... How should I fix this?

20180628_202537.jpg
 
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