Need some ID's

[garyfish340]

I'm in the midst of transferring most my 1969 barracuda, into a 1975 duster. In the duster there's a vent system hanging from beneath the dash. I like the way it looks as opposed to the bare 89 Barracuda. Although I think ( I stress ) some of the air doors are vacuum operated. I'd like to keep it for heat/ defrost use only. I don't intend to install air conditioning.
In the engine compartment are a few unfamiliar components. I figure if I can I.D. the stuff I can decide weather it stays or goes. Can anybody explain any of what's in the photo ? Thank you so much.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=250269

 

[triumphman]

I can id a couple of the items... Although I should know them all after dismantling my 75 Dart and a 74 Scamp...
Anyway the Vacuum item is a vacuum amplifier
The item near the front is the voltage regulator.
The other 2 I will have to look in my shed.... I have them tagged... However, I am snowed in today...Someone else probably knows off the top of their head..

 

[triumphman]

Oh! The item on the fire wall is the EGR timer....It has 3 wires

 

[triumphman]

Lastly:
The item mounted to the inside fender is the Electronic speed switch..
It has 3 wire also...1 tan which goes to the carb throttle position soleniod, 1 dark blue, 1 dark green with a red tracer...

 

[Pawned]

The black thing in the vacuum area is a vacuum reservoir and the other piece turns on and off the water to the heater core.
I am positive of this, I have been fighting them for the last two days

 

[BillGrissom]

Not positive, but I think the hot water valve on the heater hose only came on AC cars. My 65 Dart was non-AC and doesn't have one. Regardless, without AC I doubt you need it since turning off the blower fan stops the heat.

 

[Pawned]

Not positive, but I think the hot water valve on the heater hose only came on AC cars. My 65 Dart was non-AC and doesn't have one. Regardless, without AC I doubt you need it since turning off the blower fan stops the heat.

I believe you are correct. I do not remember these from my previous 71 duster. It was a stripped down model, no a/c

 

[garyfish340]

I'm in the midst of transferring most my 1969 barracuda, into a 1975 duster. In the duster there's a vent system hanging from beneath the dash. I like the way it looks as opposed to the bare 89 Barracuda. Although I think ( I stress ) some of the air doors are vacuum operated. I'd like to keep it for heat/ defrost use only. I don't intend to install air conditioning.
In the engine compartment are a few unfamiliar components. I figure if I can I.D. the stuff I can decide weather it stays or goes. Can anybody explain any of what's in the photo ? Thank you so much.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=250269

Very cool.
I've pulled the engine already, photo'd, and tagged everything you see. Right now a carbureted Gen III hemi is in the hole. I kept the wiring harness from my 1969 Barracuda wreck that I previously ran that engine in, with all the components still attached.
So now the next thing is. ( whowa ! ) The item furthest to the left is a voltage regulator ? I wish I had posted a photo of both sides of the engine, Cause, there's a voltage regulator by the brake master cylinder also. So I'm confused.
I need to remove the components I don't need from the 75 slant 6, I also need to adapt what I need. I really like the vent system/box that hangs from under the dash, and I want that to operate for heating, and ventilation but properly, I think the heater hose vacuum control valve in the photos opens, and closes, an air door on the interior side of the firewall. Can I just attach that valve to manifold vacuum. The rest of the component ??? Can I just trace the harness back to the firewall, and cut them ? Or is that short circuit hell.
For the hemi all I need is the start, and run wire, a ground. A big #4 wire from the starter relay to the alternator ( that draws the amps away from the ampmeter, I pretty much have that harness in one piece, and it's been fool proof since 2007.
By the way, I've kept most of the air conditioning components if anybody is in need of some illusive parts.
Thanks so far.

 

[garyfish340]

I don't have a firm grasp on the electrical thing. I know I'm confused, and wouldn't the alternator be confused also ? ( disregard the circled item on the firewall. That's a candidate for where I'm considering to feed the wires into the inside of the car for the MSD hemi6 box. )

 

[zkx14]

Can't see it good in pic, but behind the washer reservoir should be electronic ignition. The one directly opposite on passenger fender is your regulator. The one front most on passenger side was missing on mine, but I believe that is the 'speed switch' mentioned by triumphman ( just had those two reversed, firewall box is egr timer as he said)

 

[BillGrissom]

I doubt you have 2 Vreg's (read post #10). If you want to clean up the wiring, I think it is simplest and clearest to put the Vreg near the alternator, with dedicated wires between the two. Mine sits on the inner fender recess right beside the alternator.

Wire +12 V ignition power to one field terminal (either one, blue is "factory" color). I connect Vreg "sense" wire (blue) to that too. The Vreg's "low-side control" wire (green) goes to the other field terminal (verify I didn't mix up green & blue). Finally, I ran a dedicated ground wire (blk) to the case of Vreg since I don't rely on rusty screws like the factory did (causes many problems). I can sense right at the alt terminal because I supply it from a thick blue wire that is switched in from the battery by a relay. Ideally, you want to sense BATT+, but don't connect directly or it might drain down your battery overnight. Vreg tries to maintain whatever point you connect to the sense lead at ~14.3 V (relative to its case).

 

[garyfish340]

This is why I want to know what is what, with color codes. This all needs to be installed under the dash this time. I hate the mess, but it functioned for 7 years flawlessly. This photo won't explain the wiring, just the mess. I have the actual harness I created through trial, and error just across the room, but I've been warned not to give up my day job for photography. I bought my wife a nice camera for Christmas so, I'll try to get close up's of wires.
I'll photograph the wiring this week in depth, to show how it works. I've a feeling I might hear a bunch of " Why the hell would you do that!" or " That'll never work!" but it functioned as I said, flawlessly for 45 thousand miles. zero, to 100 plus degrees.

 

[zkx14]

Probably getting beyond anything I can help with, but just to clarify -where you are trying to go with this?... Maybe its me, but your questions seam to be kinda 'all over the place' Are you reworking one of the existing harnesses or starting over? Can't imagine anything from the 6 cyl ignition or emissions being of much use on the Hemi.
Oh, and just a thought -if your gonna use the wife's Christmas present before you give it to her, might want to stash a couple blankets in the back seat of the Duster so you have a warm place to sleep , lol.

 

[garyfish340]

I want to keep the interior vent system that hangs below the dash. I also want to remove any wiring for air conditioning. Can I just dead head it at the bulk head connector ? I also want to remove any of the old electronic ignition, and emissions. Can I just dead head those at the bulk head ? But I want to reuse wiring for the charging/alternator because the new alternator will be positioned in the same spot, using the same type of voltage regulator.
When you cut a wire at the bulk head are you creating future problems with corrosion in the plug ? is there a proper way to remove wiring ? That's what I really need the help with. If I know which items do what, I can discard them, if I need to.
When we get off the subject it gets confusing. I have a lot of the old stuff that works with my engine, and the red ignition box is getting installed under the dash for neatness. I really want a sanitary install. You pop the hood there's nothing excessive that you see.
My wife doesn't make me sleep in cars, or on couches, she sneaks up on you in an electric wheel chair, and barrels you over. Actually you should see what happens at the mall when they violate code by shoving racks in the isles. BOOM.

 

[garyfish340]

What I should have done is bought the service manual, used it to ID stuff, removed the unwanted items, and sold the manual to someone who needs a 1975 manual, because It wont be any good to me anymore. The car is almost delete of factory parts now.
I have the similar question to the electrical forum. This is really a easy harness to install. You need start, run, and ground. I did this like 7 years ago, so I'm not fresh on it, but I recall you can only wire it wrong one way, and you'll know because the start, and run will both try to power up, and the starter wont stop starting. Than the alternator is almost wired the same. With the exception of a big #4 wire, and giant fusible link.

 

[garyfish340]

I wish I read this post before the last one. Yep it's like those old orange, gold, and chrome boxes direct connection used to sell. Da ! Can you tell, I like aftermarket ignitions. I remember a guy had this potentiometer type system built into his gas pedal for the gold box, that would give it more juice as he increase the RPM's. Okay I've ID'd what I need and thanks. And hopefully if I keep the vacuum valve on that hose the interior vent keeps functioning.

Can't see it good in pic, but behind the washer reservoir should be electronic ignition. The one directly opposite on passenger fender is your regulator. The one front most on passenger side was missing on mine, but I believe that is the 'speed switch' mentioned by triumphman ( just had those two reversed, firewall box is egr timer as he said)

 

[zkx14]

That looks like a box full of fun.
Wish I had seen your 'budget Hemi swap' thread before. Makes a bit more sense now... (Since I am actually keeping my slant, I usually don't pay much attention to the Hemi threads) Sucks what happened to the 69, but I like where you are going with it.
I just put mine all back together over the summer, but still need to get it tuned up. Mine is staying original, so I did it the 'easy' way and just put everything back as it was. Still need to figure out what a lot of that stuff does and then figure out if it actually works. I'd bet there is a way to clean up that vacuum stuff. I know I've seen enough cars without it in the bay. For the bulkhead - the wire terminals will come out by squeezing the tab from the inside. I'm no wiring guru, but I'd just fill the holes with dielectric grease and should eliminate any corrosion issue. DMT has new seals for the bulkheed also.

I'm not too far south of you in York, so I'm sure your getting a fresh white blanket on the car today like I am (on top of the icy mess from the last couple days).
Keith

I wish I read this post before the last one. Yep it's like those old orange, gold, and chrome boxes direct connection used to sell. Da ! Can you tell, I like aftermarket ignitions. I remember a guy had this potentiometer type system built into his gas pedal for the gold box, that would give it more juice as he increase the RPM's. Okay I've ID'd what I need and thanks. And hopefully if I keep the vacuum valve on that hose the interior vent keeps functioning.

 

[garyfish340]

I'm glad your car is coming back to life. Cool looking car hope it tunes out good.
I don't mind stuff in the engine compartment, as long as it's stuff that functionally needs to be there. So vacuum hoses are good, if they are the ones that open, and close the door to the heater box.
This was a good post, I was able to get good info from cool folks. The big box of wiring isn't as bad as it looks. It'd the ignition, fuel pump, h4 head lights, charging system, and gauges. So it should look like a lot. Broken down into smaller jobs, it'll be do-able.

That looks like a box full of fun.
Wish I had seen your 'budget Hemi swap' thread before. Makes a bit more sense now... (Since I am actually keeping my slant, I usually don't pay much attention to the Hemi threads) Sucks what happened to the 69, but I like where you are going with it.
I just put mine all back together over the summer, but still need to get it tuned up. Mine is staying original, so I did it the 'easy' way and just put everything back as it was. Still need to figure out what a lot of that stuff does and then figure out if it actually works. I'd bet there is a way to clean up that vacuum stuff. I know I've seen enough cars without it in the bay. For the bulkhead - the wire terminals will come out by squeezing the tab from the inside. I'm no wiring guru, but I'd just fill the holes with dielectric grease and should eliminate any corrosion issue. DMT has new seals for the bulkheed also.

I'm not too far south of you in York, so I'm sure your getting a fresh white blanket on the car today like I am (on top of the icy mess from the last couple days).
Keith