New Cam break in

[Shotgun]

Hi Guys,

Comp-cams recommends that:

Break-in Procedure

"Important: On hydraulic and solid (mechanical) flat tappet cams that require dual valve springs, the inner spring must be removed during break-in. This allows the lifters to establish rotation and develop a good wear pattern".

Is this really necessary? I understand the car needs to run at 2200 rpm for 30 min for break in and oiling reasons but spring pressure should not be a big factor?

Seams like a lot of extra work....

Any opinions on this? :?

 

[412 Stroker]

Hi Guys,

Comp-cams recommends that:

Break-in Procedure

"Important: On hydraulic and solid (mechanical) flat tappet cams that require dual valve springs, the inner spring must be removed during break-in. This allows the lifters to establish rotation and develop a good wear pattern".

Is this really necessary? I understand the car needs to run at 2200 rpm for 30 min for break in and oiling reasons but spring pressure should not be a big factor?

Seams like a lot of extra work....

Any opinions on this? :?

Boy there are many people on this site that could write a book on this subject, I have a comp cam Thumper in my car right now, comp told me that it needed dual springs, although I had a brand new set of single springs installed that were comp cams and supposedly good for up to .500 ( my thumper is .489) so the machine shop that built my motor told me I should be fine, and I am so far it runs fine, I broke mine in with comp cams breakin oil ran for 30 minutes actually it over heated at 20 minutes so I had to let it cool down then ran it for another 20 minutes, do you have the dual springs?? and what is your lift?? if its under .500 and your running 1 spring IMO your ok If you have the duals IMO you should pull one out, and MAKE SURE you use some breakin oil, I would use the comp cams stuff...

 

[Locomotion]

It's the best insurance to do it that way. I've even put worn OEM springs on in place of heavier single springs for break-in. Changing springs is a lot less work than changing the engine if the long-shot gamble doesn't pay off.

Comp Cams, Mancini and others sell a nice little tool that bolts on to a pair of rocker stands to remove 2 springs. Then just move it over to the next 2 stands.

Compressed air or a firm rope with the piston rotated towards compression works well to keep the valves closed during the swap.

 

[Wheel Chock]

You asked for an opinion and here it is; too much spring pressure during break in is a big deal and can contribute greatly to cam and lifter failure at this time. Sure, removing and later re-installing the inner springs is a big hassle, but nothing compared to the hassle of disassembling the whole engine to clean and remove metal filings from a failed cam. That being said, it really depends on the seat pressure, a stock or near stock spring shouldn't be much of an issue, but don't blame Comp if the cam fails and you didn't follow their procedure.

 

[Shotgun]

Thanks Guys, I figured as much, no short cuts! or pay the price in the long run.

 

[moper]

You asked for an opinion and here it is; too much spring pressure during break in is a big deal and can contribute greatly to cam and lifter failure at this time. Sure, removing and later re-installing the inner springs is a big hassle, but nothing compared to the hassle of disassembling the whole engine to clean and remove metal filings from a failed cam. That being said, it really depends on the seat pressure, a stock or near stock spring shouldn't be much of an issue, but don't blame Comp if the cam fails and you didn't follow their procedure.

Yup.