New front and rear suspension: bolts to leave loose before it's on the ground

[str12-340]

I'm building a 1970 Dart. The whole front suspension is new with a variety of upgrades: tubular A-arms, beefed up lower control arms, 1.03 sway bar, heavy strut rods, 340 torsion bars, lower steering sector stabilizer, solid tie rod connectors. All the bushings are rubber. Everything is new.

Rear has new leaf springs, bushings, shackles, springs moved next to (not in) the frame.

Which bolts should remain loose prior to getting the car on the ground and bounced around, so as not to load the bushings? I believe they include rear shackle bolts, front leaf eye bolts, lower control arm pivot shafts and upper control arm eccentric bolts.. what am I missing? What should be tightened that I listed as loose?

Thanks for your help!

 

[Ironracer]

Any Rears that can bind, I'm thinking front eyes? leave the LCA pivots slightly loose, as well as the struts. Till ready for final touches w/ ride height set. Please don't take this as the Gospel! I'm sure a few more Mopar Brothers here will help out

 

[413]

Sounds like you have it correct. Get the height where you want it and then tighten them down. I would tighten the strut rods from the start.

 

[MoparMike1974]

The lower control arm pivots are critical to leave loose. The bushings can twist and ruin them.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

Here is the trick on the front bushings. Put it all together and do not crank the t-bar adjustment nuts up. Leave the upper and lower bolts loose then lift the control arms and hold them at the same space between the upper and lower control arm bump stops. This is the center of what they can travel. Tighten everything up while held in this position.

Usually when the k-member is assembled on the floor with lower and with the factory strut rods tightened . the arms are where they will ride. I put the adjusters on and turn them up until just the ball is sticking out of the threads on the adjuster . Push the lever onto the ball and that is the neutral position with factory parts. That is How I assemble them to sell or install.

 

[70dart340]

If you ever write a manual, please sign me up. I don't care what it costs. I bought and rebuilt my 1970 K frame(thanks, oldkimmer!) and have collected most of the parts for my 1970 Swinger. We plan on moving from Washington state to Florida this fall, but I'm going to have a bigger shop, and finish my Swinger 340. My FABO family is the best, bar none.