New Fuel Tank - Prep it for electric fuel pump?

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MrJLR

MrJLR

Built, not bought
FABO Gold Member
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Before I install my new fuel tank I was thinking about prepping it for a return line for possible electric fuel pump in the future. I would just cap it off for now until I go electric in the future.

Yes? No? Bad idea?

Jeff
 
MrJLR said:
Oh.....that makes more sense!
Thanks

Jeff
Click to expand...

If you have a sender now with two tubes in it, the top one I think is the short one. That tube can be removed and a longer one soldered in that will extend down so when you do the return fuel isn't splashing all over in the tank. There has been a thread or two on here about how to do that.
 
MrJLR said:
Before I install my new fuel tank I was thinking about prepping it for a return line for possible electric fuel pump in the future. I would just cap it off for now until I go electric in the future.

Yes? No? Bad idea?

Jeff
Click to expand...

Have a sump welded on it with two 1/2" pipe nipples in it. That's what I did to mine, also I used an 8AN bulkhead fitting in the top of the front side for my return. My pump is mounted laying down on a bracket that bolts to the tabs that the tank strap bolt to on the spare tire well.
 
seems like a big hassle to save a few bucks rather than get a tank set up for it, one that you could put electric pump inside later on too. Also get benefits of no sending unit below fuel level and powder coating.
 
No real hassle, I have the tools to do it and like to fabricate. On my street/strip deal the pick up needs to be in the back.
 
Bad Sport said:
Prep the sending unit with a return tube in it, and cap it off.
Click to expand...
I would not recommend capping off a fuel line that is below fuel level if we are talking about the 68 in OP's avitar
Bad Sport said:
If you have a sender now with two tubes in it, the top one I think is the short one. That tube can be removed and a longer one soldered in that will extend down so when you do the return fuel isn't splashing all over in the tank. There has been a thread or two on here about how to do that.
Click to expand...
If we are talking 68 fish, the sending unit/pick up is in front of tank half way down side, below fuel level not in top.

justinp61 said:
No real hassle, I have the tools to do it and like to fabricate. On my street/strip deal the pick up needs to be in the back.
Click to expand...

I was talking to OP, who just purchased a new tank for $180 instead of a $200 tank that has its feed and return already designed for pump and includes baffles which are very important for in tank pump or even external pump.Just seemed like trying to reinvent the wheel just to save a couple of bucks and it might not work very well ie no baffles. We are a fab shop and make many parts for swaps, headers, pulley systems, intake plenums etc but I would not waste time doing this as I did it in 1998 when I put injection in a 68 fish and it was the only way back then but now its literally $20-$40 more, delivered to your door with improvements. You wouldnt need baffles with rear mounted sump in a straight line car. Personally, I would NEVER build a car with pick up below fuel level as its cheap insurance against fire and leaking....I think those lock rings are a lame way to seal tank but its your car, happy fabbing :D
 
magnummopar said:
I would not recommend capping off a fuel line that is below fuel level if we are talking about the 68 in OP's avitar

If we are talking 68 fish, the sending unit/pick up is in front of tank half way down side, below fuel level not in top.



I was talking to OP, who just purchased a new tank for $180 instead of a $200 tank that has its feed and return already designed for pump and includes baffles which are very important for in tank pump or even external pump.Just seemed like trying to reinvent the wheel just to save a couple of bucks and it might not work very well ie no baffles. We are a fab shop and make many parts for swaps, headers, pulley systems, intake plenums etc but I would not waste time doing this as I did it in 1998 when I put injection in a 68 fish and it was the only way back then but now its literally $20-$40 more, delivered to your door with improvements. You wouldnt need baffles with rear mounted sump in a straight line car. Personally, I would NEVER build a car with pick up below fuel level as its cheap insurance against fire and leaking....I think those lock rings are a lame way to seal tank but its your car, happy fabbing :D
Click to expand...

Like I said I enjoy fab work, figuring out what I need, making and installing it. The locking ring is probably not the best solution to sealing the sender but in the day it was cheap and effective and I've been messing with Mopars since the mid 70's and have never had one to leak, must be lucky. I guess I'm part of a dying breed of knuckle draggers who build their own stuff, hot rodders, not parts changers.
 
Not us, we are just lowly parts changers, not hot rodders that build custom cars like all the cool kids. We are not even cool enough to get to play with drum brakes or carburetors. we are not smart enough so we are forced to use 4 wheel disks and fuel injection. We drive to the parts store in a very short bus and get off the shelf parts that we bolt on. Our Bridgeport, lathe, welder, tube bender and plasma are just used to set shop rags on rather than throw them on the floor. Anybody want to buy a fab shop cheap? I am going to start a new business carving wheels out of stone. happy fabbing:icon_fU:
Good news it that the $20 OP saved will buy a nice fire extinguisher in case his Chinese lock ring leaks, I have never had one leak. mostly because I wont use them.
 
I have no idea of what that means. I think its ridiculous that you would insinuate you know what I do at my business.
The OP wanted info or different opinions on using electric pump and fuel tank. You gave yours and I gave mine.A big part of our building these mopars are safety upgrades, new lines for fuel and brakes,new cooling system. most are 4 wheel brakes, fuel injection etc. I feel the upgraded tank is worth a few bucks more. Looks like OP has a few opinions and options now so the rest is up to him, after all, its his ride. Since this piece I "fabbed" today bolts on, and I didnt use hand tools, does that make me a "parts changer"?

does cutting something out on water jet count as fab work?

One of our new plenum plates from the first trial run I am "changing" out for stock design that fails.

waterjet.jpg


plenum plate.jpg
 
Everyone likes to enjoy the automotive hobby wherever it makes sense to them.
There are guys out there that believe the only true
hotrods are 29 ford roadsters or 32 highboys with flathead v8s. You go strait to he'll if you don't have 3 pedals. Only oxy/acetyl gas weld construction and pre 1945 ford parts allowed.
"Get in where you fit in". Liked that one.
 
ssba said:
Everyone likes to enjoy the automotive hobby wherever it makes sense to them.
There are guys out there that believe the only true
hotrods are 29 ford roadsters or 32 highboys with flathead v8s. You go strait to he'll if you don't have 3 pedals. Only oxy/acetyl gas weld construction and pre 1945 ford parts allowed.
"Get in where you fit in". Liked that one.
Click to expand...
 
I installed my return top front center of tank with number #8 bulk fitting---I have electric pump in my tank in stock location with a stealth pump and running my atomic system with no problems---purchased aftermarket sender installed in top left of tank as a drop in
 
magnummopar said:
I have no idea of what that means. I think its ridiculous that you would insinuate you know what I do at my business.
The OP wanted info or different opinions on using electric pump and fuel tank. You gave yours and I gave mine.A big part of our building these mopars are safety upgrades, new lines for fuel and brakes,new cooling system. most are 4 wheel brakes, fuel injection etc. I feel the upgraded tank is worth a few bucks more. Looks like OP has a few opinions and options now so the rest is up to him, after all, its his ride. Since this piece I "fabbed" today bolts on, and I didnt use hand tools, does that make me a "parts changer"?

does cutting something out on water jet count as fab work?

One of our new plenum plates from the first trial run I am "changing" out for stock design that fails.
Click to expand...

I've reread my posts and didn't see where I insinuated anything about your business., in fact I didn't know you had a business. It sounds like you have a lot of nice stuff, I'm happy for you.

I don't see a problem with a guy buying a $180 tank and making it work for what he needs instead of buying a shop built $250 tank. If all I wanted was to own a hot rod I'd just buy one, but for me the journey is as much fun as the destination.

There are gear heads and there are parts changers, I'm a gear head.
 
"I guess I'm part of a dying breed of knuckle draggers who build their own stuff, hot rodders, not parts changers." sounded like it was directed at me for suggesting a "bolt on" tank solution rather than modify his "new" one. BTW the tanks inc part is $249 on their site but we sell to FABO guys for $200. It is vastly superior in every way. If he purchased a new sender for his new tank that's a wash on a new one for our tank. Only other thing needed is a pick up assy rather than a pick up/pump assy. They are about $20. I spoke with OP before he bought a tank and gave him a quote. He went with the less expensive choice from scummit but is now discussing modifying it to do what tanks inc does already....just seemed to be the hard way to go to save $20-$40.
I have seen way to many mopars roll through the shop with leaking sender, VERY dangerous in my opinion, specially in an accident. 3 tiny 1/8" wide tin tabs holding back 20 gal of explosives seems like pressing your luck to me.
We do have a business and make several parts in house as well as have several companys make our products for us. We sell others well made stuff as well. We build Magnum powered FI w overdirve A bodies using lots of parts including many "bolt ons" like our 4 wheel disk brake kits and FI tanks and filter/line kits. We also shorten 8.8 furds and build headers for early A's and 67+ A's that don't have all the problems that other headers have. Unfortunately for us, it seems the A body community is happier saving $20 and supporting scummit than a real shop that knows what they are doing. If this continues, we will just go back to concentrating on building cars rather than trying to support the A body community with quality parts and swap info.
I could have retired 10 years ago but would rather work on Mopars than go RVing or watch TV so though I would see if anybody wants to support an old school Mopar only speed shop. Time will tell.
First real hot rod 1974 55 Chebby 210 post, first mopar 1978 66 Fury III 383 SC ....I am old too:D
 
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