I have some new gauges coming today, with a new circuit board. Is there anything I need to know. or to make sure is right before I hook them up? As far as grounds go and things like that?? I don't want to fry them.. Thanks!!
New Gauges
- Thread starter Plyscamp
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Different clusters are "different" but here's what all was wrong on my 67
First, the cluster PC board connectors were bad, loose, broken. mIne were so bad I abandonde them and bought "Molex" style connectors a Radio Shack, and soldered pigtails to the board traces.
Second, buy yourself a good quality aftermarket, solid state instrument VR.
Next, inspect the board carefully, or consider getting a repop On mine (non rally) the VR contact fingers in the board were NOT making contact with the board traces, and I had to solder jumpers between the contact fingers and the board.
The fake nuts on the gauge studs were not making contact with the board. Replaced them with real nuts, and loosen/ tighten/ loosen/ tighten them to scrub things clean.
The sender wiring may have troubles. The temp sender goes though the bulkhead connector, always a suspect
The tank sender may not be properly grounded.
The sender end connectors may be broken/ corroded inside the rubber molded ends.
Once you get good solid 12 to the board (fixed the harness connector / board pins)
Once you fix the VR connector and get a good VR
Once you fix the gauge stud connections.
THEN you can use resistances to check the accuracy in substitute for the senders. Temp, fuel, and oil (rally if used) are all the same.
If you go to Radio Shack, and buy 4 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistors, and wire all 4 in parallel, that should give you very close to 1/2 scale gauge reading. Allow sufficient time for the gauge to stabilize
The test resistors are:
L = 73.7 Ohms (empty)
M = 23.0 Ohms (1/2)
H = 10.2 Ohms (full)
First, the cluster PC board connectors were bad, loose, broken. mIne were so bad I abandonde them and bought "Molex" style connectors a Radio Shack, and soldered pigtails to the board traces.
Second, buy yourself a good quality aftermarket, solid state instrument VR.
Next, inspect the board carefully, or consider getting a repop On mine (non rally) the VR contact fingers in the board were NOT making contact with the board traces, and I had to solder jumpers between the contact fingers and the board.
The fake nuts on the gauge studs were not making contact with the board. Replaced them with real nuts, and loosen/ tighten/ loosen/ tighten them to scrub things clean.
The sender wiring may have troubles. The temp sender goes though the bulkhead connector, always a suspect
The tank sender may not be properly grounded.
The sender end connectors may be broken/ corroded inside the rubber molded ends.
Once you get good solid 12 to the board (fixed the harness connector / board pins)
Once you fix the VR connector and get a good VR
Once you fix the gauge stud connections.
THEN you can use resistances to check the accuracy in substitute for the senders. Temp, fuel, and oil (rally if used) are all the same.
If you go to Radio Shack, and buy 4 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistors, and wire all 4 in parallel, that should give you very close to 1/2 scale gauge reading. Allow sufficient time for the gauge to stabilize
The test resistors are:
L = 73.7 Ohms (empty)
M = 23.0 Ohms (1/2)
H = 10.2 Ohms (full)
Well thanks for all the helpful information 67 Dart 273.I just opened the box and there was a paper in with the circuit board saying that the voltage limiter is built in to the board. And the noise suppressor as well. I guess that helps alot?? Some pics...
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