Newbie need help

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1973 valiant

1973 valiant

1973 valiant
Joined
Oct 16, 2020
Messages
60
Reaction score
13
Location
Raleigh north carolina
Hi I just picked up a 1973 valiant I went to jump start it through the solenoid to get it on top dead center after checking the timing marks then after went to start the car it will only run on the starter turning when I let go of the key it will shut off what did I burn out
 
It's also a good idea to have a voltmeter if you plan on doing any work. It will tell you if your getting correct voltage at the right time. In key run about 8 volts at coil and in start position about 10 volts. This can sometimes eliminate buying parts and not getting the job accomplished.
 
Your rite I came back from buying parts and before I put the ballast in it started rite up I tested the ballast 6volts and the coil has 8volts Mopar wiring is pretty new to me alot different than GM but it runs which I can't figure out is there a circuit breaker somewhere I need to get a book and study this
 
Ignition switch in start position bypasses the ballast resistor ( I think a brown wire ). Coil gets as much battery voltage as can get there. Ignition switch in run position sends on ignition 2, still as much system voltage as can get there ( I think a blue wire ) through the ballast resistor lowing the constant run voltage to the coil so it doesn't overheat. So the ignition switch may be the fault. Voltage out on ignition 2 could be a intermittent fault too.
First, go to and disconnect the connector beneath the column and check that you do have 12 volts going into ( the red wire ) and out of the ignition switch. Cycle the switch repeatedly may or may no show a intermittent fault. Good hunting
 
RedFish said:
Ignition switch in start position bypasses the ballast resistor ( I think a brown wire ). Coil gets as much battery voltage as can get there. Ignition switch in run position sends on ignition 2, still as much system voltage as can get there ( I think a blue wire ) through the ballast resistor lowing the constant run voltage to the coil so it doesn't overheat. So the ignition switch may be the fault. Voltage out on ignition 2 could be a intermittent fault too.
First, go to and disconnect the connector beneath the column and check that you do have 12 volts going into ( the red wire ) and out of the ignition switch. Cycle the switch repeatedly may or may no show a intermittent fault. Good hunting
Click to expand...
 
in a pinch you can always bypass the ballast resistor to get you home. All it does is extend life of ignition consumables.
 
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