Newbie With Engine(s) Questions...

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ToMang07

ToMang07

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So without writing a book, I've had a couple muscle cars over the years, but my favorite was a 1970 Dodge Dart Swinger I had in high school/college that I basically ruined. (Drove it year round in the north and rusted it out.)

Learned my lesson there. I've pined for one ever since. Have a house/garage now, much more versed in mechanical abilities, (still not much from that era however) and I would like to get back into it.

So I'm looking for another swinger. I like the 70-72 best with the flat nose, just the aesthetics are better IMO. Currently trying to locate a project car with a good body/frame and would eventually like to put a larger small block in, like a 340 or 383. (Manual preferred, but I'll get there eventually.) Seems all I can find are slant 6 cars right now, which would not be the final product.

I guess right now Ideally I'd like to build a 340 Swinger clone, but would like advice as far as what works and what doesn't. Would a 383 be a good choice as well? Seems there are more of them and they are certainly cheaper.

Ideally not looking to sink a ton of money into this, however I do want to do it right, not looking for a car show champion as much as a nice weekend cruiser.

I've pulled engines before, and I wrench a lot on newer stuff, (mostly my and my brothers' trucks/bikes) but never really done any swaps like this.

I did find a rusty 73 Dart Sport with a 340/4-speed that I could use as a donor car, (has posi, rally wheels, and disc brakes too) however the rust on the block has me worried.

Appreciate the input fellas.

(Avatar/Green one is the one I had in high school.)
(Gold/Brown one is a 70 Swinger and potential runner)

Dodge Dart Swingr Avatar.jpg


Dart Swinger.jpg
 
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Welcome and I hope you find the car you are looking for soon
 
ToMang07 said:
So without writing a book, I've had a couple muscle cars over the years, but my favorite was a 1970 Dodge Dart Swinger I had in high school/college that I basically ruined. (Drove it year round in the north and rusted it out.)

Learned my lesson there. I've pined for one ever since. Have a house/garage now, much more versed in mechanical abilities, (still not much from that era however) and I would like to get back into it.

So I'm looking for another swinger. I like the 70-72 best with the flat nose, just the aesthetics are better IMO. Currently trying to locate a project car with a good body/frame and would eventually like to put a larger small block in, like a 340 or 383. (Manual preferred, but I'll get there eventually.) Seems all I can find are slant 6 cars right now, which would not be the final product.

I guess right now Ideally I'd like to build a 340 Swinger clone, but would like advice as far as what works and what doesn't. Would a 383 be a good choice as well? Seems there are more of them and they are certainly cheaper.

Ideally not looking to sink a ton of money into this, however I do want to do it right, not looking for a car show champion as much as a nice weekend cruiser.

I've pulled engines before, and I wrench a lot on newer stuff, (mostly my and my brothers' trucks/bikes) but never really done any swaps like this.

I did find a rusty 73 Dart Sport with a 340/4-speed that I could use as a donor car, (has posi, rally wheels, and disc brakes too) however the rust on the block has me worried.

Appreciate the input fellas.

(Avatar/Green one is the one I had in high school.)
(Gold/Brown one is a 70 Swinger and potential runner)
(Motor is the 340/4-speed in the rusted 73)

View attachment 1715014594

View attachment 1715014597

View attachment 1715014600
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Must be a strong 340 looks like they had to chain it down to keep it from coming out of the car! I would buy the donor lots of good parts on it.
 
FYI - 340 is a small block, 383 is a big block. Anyway, anything is possible if you have the want and desire - and the $$$. I agree with the others here, verify that it IS a 340 and get it! All those rusty parts will need to be replaced anyway, so they aren't a concern.. it's what is behind and under it that you want. Through all that rust and crust - I bet there is a decent 340 in there. That gold car looks (from the one pic) like it has potential.. can you get more pics?
 
ScampMike said:
FYI - 340 is a small block, 383 is a big block - anything is possible if you have the want and desire - and the $$$. I agree with the others here, verify that it IS a 340 and get it! All those rusty parts will need to be replaced anyway, so they aren't a concern.. it's what is behind and under it that you want. Through all that rust and crust - I bet there is a decent 340 in there. That gold car looks (from the one pic) like it has potential.. can you get more pics?
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It's buried in snow right now, so depending on which way the winter weather goes it's going to be a few weeks before I can get out to it. If it's as good as the guy says it's a good deal.
 
If it's as good as the guy says it is, then you have to ask; Why has it been parked for so long?
But if it's an H code car, maybe it's too good to be a donor.And if it was an original 4-speed car, well then.....maybe, just maybe, you are looking at your dream car right there.
 
AJ/FormS said:
If it's as good as the guy says it is, then you have to ask; Why has it been parked for so long?
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Well he is a mopar bone yard, and has roughly 60 cars, mostly a bodies. If it's bad I'll just move on and keep looking. Not many rust free gems up here in the wintery north!
 
first welcome...in my opinion you are better off spending more for a solid car darts are still around for reasonable prices. it can become overwhelming to most people my self included when your car needs so much. it can take the fun out after months then years and the time it takes is sometimes hard to make available.don't get me wrong it is a great hobby but driving and cruising are the payoff. have fun K.O.
 
Well....I just did something stupid.

Found a '70 RB 440 with a rebuilt/fresh 6-Pack.
 
Good score on the motor...I believe pre '72 440's had the higher compression. Ie, non smog motor. You have any idea on the internals?? Start looking NOW for headers if you're looking for a deal. Hawk the classifieds section....every once in a while some BB A'body headers pop up...but go very quickly. Unless you got 700-900 to drop on new ones....

The BB A'body thing adds up quickly....everything needs addressed. Conversion Mounts, BB Xmsn, Rear End, Torsion bars, Manual brake conversion, possible manual steering conversion, Gonna need to cool that beast....on and on. I dove face first into it and figured out it's much more expensive than a simple small block upgrade. Cheers buddy!
 
It's a definite challenge to fit that beast between the fenders and still have any room to work. Jlcaptain's on the mark with all his statements for sure. The payoff is that it looks the balls and you can talk about how you made it happen for hours.
 
67dartgtgo said:
It's a definite challenge to fit that beast between the fenders and still have any room to work. Jlcaptain's on the mark with all his statements for sure. The payoff is that it looks the balls and you can talk about how you made it happen for hours.
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LOL...pretty much. Just the look people give you when they realize your dumb *** poked a BB in a dart is worth every penny and hour spent cussing it out.
 
Jlcaptain24 said:
Good score on the motor...I believe pre '72 440's had the higher compression. Ie, non smog motor. You have any idea on the internals?? Start looking NOW for headers if you're looking for a deal. Hawk the classifieds section....every once in a while some BB A'body headers pop up...but go very quickly. Unless you got 700-900 to drop on new ones....

The BB A'body thing adds up quickly....everything needs addressed. Conversion Mounts, BB Xmsn, Rear End, Torsion bars, Manual brake conversion, possible manual steering conversion, Gonna need to cool that beast....on and on. I dove face first into it and figured out it's much more expensive than a simple small block upgrade. Cheers buddy!
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I have no doubts. My focus right now is trying to find a car with good body/frame/glass. Then will come the 4-speed, then all the million little things. Not building a show car....just want a fun street car. Paint will be the last thing.
 
I get that with mine! I used the Schumacher kit and worked great, do the heater blower mod also when it is out, much easier.
 
Hang on I will find their site a bit pricy but a great kit, I bought mine with the headers sure glad I did.
 
At this point I'm planning on the Shumacker (SP?) kit, try-Y ceramic headers, torque strap, and A-body BB engine mounts. I know there's going to be a lot more to it than that, but it's a ways off, regardless.
 
Welcome !!
Big blocks in a- bodies make fun cruisers !!
They have the torque to boil the hydes at will !!
The low deck 383-400 make it a bit easier but rb still do work .
One thing you might try is finding a straight 73 they seem more plentiful, and cheaper, plus they still have the tail lights in the bumper . Then get a scamp 70-73
Bumper or 70 dart bumper nose and doors with wing windows and you basically have a 70 dart !!
This can be done pretty cheap if done right !!
It don't matter if it's a 6 car , just get Schumacher mounts .
As far as stick or auto it can be converted easily !
Good luck
Jim
 
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