Newbie with ignition question

[Ruadhd2]

I have just bough a 1975 Dodge Dart 4 door custom with 14,500 original miles on it ... a real old lady car story, garaged one owner Survivor car.
But age has its effects.

I need a replacement for Engine control box module: Part#4543874300

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for this or an improved version?

 

[memike]

I have just bough a 1975 Dodge Dart 4 door custom with 14,500 original miles on it ... a real old lady car story, garaged one owner Survivor car.
But age has its effects.

I need a replacement for Engine control box module: Part#4543874300

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for this or an improved version?

Any AUTO part's store carry what you need close buy 8)
I am sure NAPA and The zone, But if you are looking to have one sent to you, some other tec's can help you there :happy10::clock: Welcome to the site and there will be a tec' here soon. :happy10:

 

[1969dodgedartgt]

I have just bough a 1975 Dodge Dart 4 door custom with 14,500 original miles on it ... a real old lady car story, garaged one owner Survivor car.
But age has its effects.

I need a replacement for Engine control box module: Part#4543874300

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for this or an improved version?

congrats on the buy :cheers:, dont know about the part, sure someone does (just wait)....
what I do know is, we would love to see some pictures of the granny mobile

 

[slantsixdan]

Congrats on the low-miles find. My own '73 Dart Custom 4-door is a "high miles" unit compared to yours (50k original). It's not 100% clear what exactly you're looking for; that "part number" has too many digits. Chrysler part numbers in the applicable year range have seven digits. I am guessing your P/N is in fact 3874 300 and the "454" is a date code. I am further guessing this what you're after is mounted on the firewall, somewhere between the middle and the passenger side.

P/N 3874 300 is an EGR timer module. I'm betting it looks like one of the two boxes in this picture (disregarding the stamped P/Ns):

Please confirm or correct that guess.

A couple of questions:

1. Is this '75 equipped with a catalytic converter? Does it have "UNLEADED GASOLINE ONLY" labels near the fuel cap and on the dashboard? The '75 models came both with and without catalysts, depending on engine and other equipment.

2. What regulations does the state of Maryland apply to 1975-model cars like yours with respect to emissions? Do they do a tailpipe test? Do they specifically require that all original-equipment emission control devices and components be present? Please be specific, and check into it if you're not sure. It matters to what advice is given for your repair.

3. What is the trouble with the part you are trying to replace?

 

[Ruadhd2]

You have properly identified the part. I was over at the mechanic's garage today to look at the part and you have it nailed. Its the black one on the right on the driver's firewall. Apparently it controls the choke. It seems to have melted. A picture of mine is attached.

I need a replacement in order to have the mechanic finish the job. Don't know about the catalytic converter, but it does have "Unleaded fuel only" on it as you describe.

Would really appreciate knowing where to get it replaced, since it is holding up the general repair process. There is no issue with Maryland because it is registered as an historic vehicle and does not require a state inspection.

Thanks very much again. Steve

 

[Ruadhd2]

So, this came from the estate of a 98 year-old lady who was the only owner and kept it in her garage for 35 years. It has 14,500 miles on it. Slant Six 225. I have kept it as a true survivor and have only changed the tires, radio, battery, radiator, fuel pump, windshield washer bushings, and windshield washer t-connector. All parts are original. It needs nothing but some sealant on the rear window molding. I think there is some rubber that goes on the tie-rods but they are perfectly functional. Interior is perfect. Tiny tear at seam of driver's seat. Rolled pleats in cream from factory. Eat off the red trunk carpet liner. Headliner perfect. One ding on left front fender and two on trunk lid. Runs great, but I am looking for the EGR time delay module.

What does anybody think this car is worth?

P.S. My mechanic is pictured here. He actually built these cars at the Chrysler Factory.

 

[slantsixdan]

Nice car! Still need answers as to whether you are legally required to have the original emission control system intact and functioning in all respects in order to register the car where you live. If not, you will be very much ahead in time, money, and quality of result (driveability, fuel economy, performance) by disabling the EGR system altogether, which will render this timer redundant.

Also, you are getting a great deal of ignorant advice in this and your other thread; you cannot buy this part at Autozone or any other auto parts store. It was a dealer-only item and has not been serviced for many years. If for whatever reason you must have it, you will either have to find a working used one or a New Old Stock one.

 

[Ruadhd2]

Thanks for your interest.
1. Don't need the original emissions functioning to register the car. Historic cars do not require inspections of any kind in Maryland.
2. I have a couple of great forum members sending me some EGR modules from junkers because, you are right again, they are not available as new replacements anywhere except NOS and they aren't happening.
3. Great idea about disabling the EGR system if my junker EGR modules don't work.

 

[Ruadhd2]

I just spoke to my mechanic, who is an older gentleman who built these cars in the Chrysler Factory. He agrees that we should try to find a working module from the junked ones I am receiving and, if they don't work, then disabling the EGR system would not be a major crime, especially in view of the fact that this car has an historic tag and doesn't need inspection in Maryland. In fact, when I met my wife 35 years ago she had a 1968 slant six Plymouth Valiant, which, I believe, had no EGR system (just a sticking choke). Steve

 

[1969dodgedartgt]

nice car,
I'd like to know value too, me guess 3-7k

 

[Ruadhd2]

End of week it will need nothing. All standard Dodge Parts or legit replacements. New battery, fuel pump, radiator, fuel filter, brakes, AM radio,and tires.

 

[slantsixdan]

Thanks for your interest.
1. Don't need the original emissions functioning to register the car. Historic cars do not require inspections of any kind in Maryland.

Great! Quit straining your brain trying to find the EGR timer. Just disable the system. The car will run better and get better fuel economy.

 

[seatbeltinterlock1]

Hello-

I am a CA I/M Smog Mechanic from the 1980's when it started. I picked up a 1974 Plymouth Valiant for $300.00. I found out that the wiring had melted together under the dash at the firewall (ammeter). I am going in head first by R&R ing the entire wiring system with one from a 1976 Valiant. I is a fun project,I like electrical issues. This will be an ongoing conversion as I go along, needs a new paint job,may paint it yellow for fun as I used to drive as a Taxi driver in Santa Cruz, the Bay Area, New Jersey and New York City.:sign7::sign7:

 

[67Dart273]

You really might want to start a new thread with this. That way you can use a relevant title, etc.

 

[seatbeltinterlock1]

I found this on the web looking for an I.D. of the part. If anyone is out there with the same problem, they will find this page right away with all the info on it. I really am a newbie at the forum thing.ops: I will read up on starting a new thread. I had a 1966 Plymouth Belvedere II with the gold interior.:coffee2:

 

[seatbeltinterlock1]

:iconbigg:

I found this on the web looking for an I.D. of the part. If anyone is out there with the same problem, they will find this page right away with all the info on it. I really am a newbie at the forum thing.ops: I will read up on starting a new thread. I had a 1966 Plymouth Belvedere II with the gold interior.:coffee2:

:iconbigg: Just finished the wiring last night and primed the carb (tank was siphoned out and new gas with sea foam put in). Really a joy to see the great 318 fire up and run smooth as glass,tranny shifts thru the gears well, reverse tells me new U-Joints are needed. Yeh, I try to fix things, too, do a lot of research before I do. Have a Good One.:burnout:

 

[RedFish]

If you get a noise when shifting to reverse it can be the U joints but can also be looseness in the front yoke splines. Packing that with grease will cushion and silence.

 

[wjajr]

Red tenth wheel of odometer indicates this is not original odometer, and was replaced with Chrysler sourced new part reading 00000.0 miles; I would guess by dealer. How do I know this, I had a speedometer problem covered under warrantee in early eighties at ten thousand miles on a new KCar. When I traded that car I had to declare the actual mileage was 10,000 miles higher than odometer was showing.

 

[seatbeltinterlock1]

THANK YOU FOR THE SUGGESTION- THE NOISE IS DEFIANTLY TOWARD THE REAR, HOWEVER ONCE DRIVEN,I WILL BE ABLE TO DETERMINE THE SOURCE. I HAVE A 1992 CHEVY 1500 ALSO WITH A SLOPPY CLUNK IN THE REAR END. I JUST TAKE OFF THE LINE EASY FOR NOW,U-JOINTS WERE REPLACED.:burnout: