no spark

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unknownsnake

unknownsnake

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I went to start car this week and I am getting to power no the coil. The msd box is getting power from the battery. Theres also a power wire from ignition to box not sure if I am getting power from there yet just got a tester today. Whats best way to test or location to test that? Any other ideas why I am not getting power to coil? Its all brand new msd 6al box and a new coil. All new wiring. :banghead:
 
Copied from msd :

No 12v present at Coil +
1.One common question in regards to MSD Ignition controls is “Why isn’t 12V power on the orange (COIL +) wire?”
The main reason 12V won’t be present at coil + is because your MSD ignition is a Capacitive Discharge Ignition. Like all CD ignitions they use a large capacitor to discharge 420-480 Volts to coil + and coil – will normally be connected to ground. (That’s why you wont see +12V on coil +)

2.Most all stock ignitions are Inductive Ignitions, these will normally be connected to the + 12V ignition switch to coil + and coil – is connected to Points or the Factory Electronic Module. (That’s why you’ll see +12V on coil +)


http://www.msdignition.com/page.aspx?id=3206
 
Has it run yet since you installed the MSD. If not you don't have 12v to the box in the start position, only in the run position.

Easy way to check this by yourself is to turn the key to run and go under the hood and jump the solenoid. If it starts, there is your issue.
 
everything on car has been rebuilt or new. The motor cranks just getting no spark.
I guess I dont understand what the MSD page is trying to say :/
 
unknownsnake said:
everything on car has been rebuilt or new. The motor cranks just getting no spark.
I guess I dont understand what the MSD page is trying to say :/
Click to expand...

The basics are that the MSD does not supply power to the coil constantly like a regular 12v system.
It stores up power in the box, and then suddenly discharges all of it to the coil.
This is why you won't see voltage at the coil (That's normal for the MSD)

I seem to remember that MSD has a test procedure, but I don't remember what it is off the top.
 
roccodart440 said:
Has it run yet since you installed the MSD. If not you don't have 12v to the box in the start position, only in the run position.

Easy way to check this by yourself is to turn the key to run and go under the hood and jump the solenoid. If it starts, there is your issue.
Click to expand...


You can also trigger the ignition to see if it sparks manually by jumping the purple and green distributer wires.

Oh, and did you delete the ballast resistor? YOu need to with the MSD.
 
unknownsnake said:
everything on car has been rebuilt or new. The motor cranks just getting no spark.
I guess I dont understand what the MSD page is trying to say :/
Click to expand...

Understanding what MSD has to say is going to be a key to this issue. You need to go to the MSD site and download everything you can find about their "box."

As said above: and........

There's a white wire used to trigger points. You can tap that to ground and produce sparks to test. Make sure the white is NOT grounded when trying to run normally. I can also be used that way (grounded with a switch) as an anti theft

There are "two" power wires. The "big red" is a heavy power wire and is intended to be wired "hot" at all times, like to the starter relay stud

The "small red" is a relay trigger wire. This is what is to be switched 12V. THE PROBLEM many have is they don't get the ballast properly bypassed, and DO NOT get power "in start." There are two original wires, one is "run" and one is "start bypass" Those must be connected together
 
I have the ballast resistor hooked up and the big red wire is hooked the the starter solenoid. Got a friend going to come trouble shoot it this weekend. He just put the same box on his blaser
 
Why are you using the ballast resistor? With the MSD you need to delete the ballast resistor. DId you read your instructions?
 
Actually the ballast should really not matter. All the "small red" does is to trigger the unit into action. It does not supply the main power. Make sure the "small red" is getting power in both run and start. You should be able to jumper 12V directly to the small red to isolate
 
hmm still trouble shooting think I am on to something. The guy that wired my car hooked wrong wire up I think. He has the ignition wire cut and capped off and it should go to msd box.
 
unknownsnake said:
hmm still trouble shooting think I am on to something. The guy that wired my car hooked wrong wire up I think. He has the ignition wire cut and capped off and it should go to msd box.
Click to expand...

There are only 5 wires that actually make it work.

Big red: positive terminal of battery
Big black: negative terminal of battery
Small red: switched power
Purple and Green: distributer
 
Well LOL seven counting the two coil wires.

I tend to think "in sections."

1....IS IT wired right? FOR SURE? Is it getting power, is it grounded? Getting power during cranking?

2....Is it getting triggered? Bad distributor? Wrong type (mismatched) distributor?

3....Is the coil hooked up correctly? Is the coil GOOD? ANY OTHER "wrong" stuff hooked to the coil? No tach or other wiring should be hooked to the coil. Only wires going to the coil should be the two MSD wires PERIOD

4....I always get down to checking spark right at the coil.......not using the coil wire because even the HT coil wire could be bad
 
67Dart273 said:
I tend to think "in sections."

1....IS IT wired right? FOR SURE? Is it getting power, is it grounded? Getting power during cranking?

2....Is it getting triggered? Bad distributor? Wrong type (mismatched) distributor?
Click to expand...

Red goes to battery, black goes to ground or battery.

Now, touch the green and purple to trigger it and test spark.

Last, turn key to on position, jump solenoid under hood to check if you have spark in start position.
 
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