Not charging AGAIN

-
WildCat

WildCat

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2007
Messages
3,448
Reaction score
165
Location
Central Indiana
Guys need some assistance

My 67 Dart quit charging last year and I covered it up and said the hell with it for the winter.

When I built the car I switched from the old points regulator to electronic so it now has a 2 wire alternator.

It is the second time and the other time I took it to a guy that just does electrical work. He found some bad connections and corrected them. But last year it quit again and so now I'm trying to figure it out

Had the alternator rebuilt the last time and guy did it wrong so had so done else go thru it again, doubt there was anything wrong before the 1st guy damaged it.

Changed the voltage regulator.

Checked with ohm meter between the alt. and the voltage regulator and the wires have good continuity.

Tighten the connectors on the alt & reg

So checking the wiring diagram it shows the wire going to the headlight switch then the regulator, so could a bad headlight switch cause it not to charge?

Have a new switch since the rheostat for the dash lights is bad and they aren't working, but all the other lights do,

COULD THIS BE RELATED?

Bought a new engine compartment wiring harness but would like to find the problem before I change it just in case it doesn't fix the problem.

I used crimp connectors when I built it I KNOW I SHOULD HAVE SOLDIERED IT ALL, John did soldier the connections that were bad when he worked on it. But since I have connectivity between the alt and reg doubt it is in the connections there.

HELP

Ready to get it out but cannot take it anywhere without it charging. Have an electric fuel pump and fan so running it draws more current than if all stock and when the battery is dead so is the car.

any suggestions?

Thought about pulling the alternator and having it checked again. But it only has a few HUNDERD miles on it since it was done last. I know new doesn't mean good!

Problem is it has a serpentine belt drive so cannot just check it with another alternator due to the pulley

DAMN DEMON, possessed engine has went into the electrical system.

The 340, rear end and front suspension is out of a 71 demon parts car...... LOL
 
WildCat said:
So checking the wiring diagram it shows the wire going to the headlight switch then the regulator, so could a bad headlight switch cause it not to charge?
Click to expand...

This is absolutely not true. The VR is not connected to the light switch. Either your diagram is wrong, or you misread it

WildCat said:
Have a new switch since the rheostat for the dash lights is bad and they aren't working, but all the other lights do,

COULD THIS BE RELATED?
Click to expand...

No not related, before you replace the light switch, check WITH lights in head or park, and BE SURE that the park / tail lights are working, twist the dimmer several times back and forth, then leave it "mostly to the left"

Now go to the fuse panel and find the inst. fuse, usually all the way to one end of the fuse panel. It should have power on both sides of the fuse. It will have power ONLY with the above conditions, as this fuse is fed power FROM the dimmer control on the way TO the dash lamps


WildCat said:
Thought about pulling the alternator and having it checked again. But it only has a few HUNDERD miles on it since it was done last. I know new doesn't mean good!
Click to expand...

I believe in testing on the car. But that might be one option. THERE IS NO REASON to assume that just because any part is new, or fairly new, that it is "good" as in functional

=================================

A FEW simple tests will tell you what you want. First, let's review "how this works, refer tot he simplified diagram, from MyMopar:

Dual_Field_Alternator_Wiring.jpg


Look at the top of the ballast resistor. This is IGN 1 or "ignition run" voltage from the ignition switch. THIS CAN BE a problem, as it is subject to voltage drop due to bad connections in the switch or switch connector, or bulkhead connector More on this later

NOTICE that this branches off and feeds (blue) to the IGN terminal of the VR. Also note that it goes off and feeds (blue) one of the two field terminals of the alternator.


NOTE!!!!!! The VR MUST BE MUST BE GROUNDED. Before you do ANYTHING else, remove it from the firewall, scrape the VR and firewall clean, and remount using star lock washers. It MUST be tight. If the bolts are stripped, you must take measures

OK............NOTE that there is a second field connection (green) which only goes ONE place-------back to the regulator.

The field is a simple electromagnet. The "key" feeds power to one field terminal, and the VR controls "the amount of ground" through the green wire.

Let's do some tests:

Run the car at a fast idle

Note battery voltage. If it's not charging it will be 12.6V or lower, if charging, it should run "somewhere" around 14

NOW check voltage at the alternator large output stud. If it is "way high" then you have a break in the wiring between alternator output and the battery.

If it is ALSO at about 12.6 or lower, then not charging.

Shut off the engine

REMOVE the GREEN field wire from the alternator

Turn the key to "run."

Hook a clip lead to the disconnected alternator field (not the wire) and with the key in "run" touch the wire to GROUND in low light. You should see a small spark. Clip the wire to ground.

Start the engine, run up RPM "gently" and watch battery voltage or your ammeter

Does it charge?

If so, we have troubles in the VR or VR wiring

If not, a couple more checks

With the setup above running, compare battery V to alternator output stud V. Are they both low, 12.6 or lower?

If so, not charging. Did you get a spark when you grounded the wire? Not sure?

Measure voltage with the key "in run" at the BLUE field wire. You should have "same as" battery voltage. If not, wiring trouble

If you have this voltage, then it's looking like the alternator is bad............(brushes)

This should keep you busy. Post back with results when you get time, and we'll go onwards
 
Thanks 67dart273

Have some checking to do

I know for sure the light switch rheostat is bad. Should have changed it before reassembly of dash but forgot it wasn't working correctly. Have been able for years to get the lights working playing with it. But 2 years ago it got to were I had a real hard time getting them to work. Last year couldn't get them on at all. 47 year old switch, could have burn out wire on rheostat or corrosion either way have a new switch just have to take time to change it.

Got stopped last year on the last time it was on the road before it quit charging at night. Cop said I was speeding, I don't know because I was going from 2nd to 3rd in a 45 mph zone and once I would get it into 4th would shine flash lite on it to see speedo. I think he just wanted to look at the car. He lied saying it was a 40 mph zone which in fact was 45 and then after giving me a warning then wanted to talk about the car. Never would tell me how fast I was going.

So will go out and try your suggestions on checking the output.

So far nothing from the back of the alt. fulling charged battery before I started and had just under 12v with car running. Have started it several time fuel pump drawing power. Off it is 12.6

Guess I should have used the magnifying glass when looking at the wiring diagram..... LOL
 
Ok

Did the checks

Still no charging

Battery 12.5v not running 12.1v running

Alt. 12.5 not running 11.75 running

Ground clip to neg on battery and to green field term alt

Running

11.07v to blue field term

11.7v at + stud alt.

11.03v @Ballast resistor input side 4.72 output

11.1v VR blue wire

March brackets might have alt mounted different than factory brackets.

The battery terminal is on bottom 4oclock have the positive field (blue wire) closest to + 2oclock and the - (green) field wire @ 12oclock

Looking at the post on wiring diagrams might have had the fields backwards so I switched then but it made no difference.

With ground wire to green field could not see spark, but it is kind bright in garage right now. With ground from battery to green field term. not green wire but to alt term still does not charging

View attachment image.jpg

Wish it was a standard alt. so I could put another on to check.

The bad part is my dad & I worked at Chrysler and I even inspected those in the mid to late 70s. Have some brushes but think they are for the newer style alt. even have some new alt with v drive pulleys

So not sure next step

Since I went with higher output alt was wondering if the extra current caused the problem running it at night on the interstate and might of overheated something but the wiring looks ok everywhere.
 
Might be the brushes. Do you know how to set up your multimeter for current? What model is the meter. As I said it's a simple magnet. Most fields draw "about 3-4A some of the later ones are up around 5-6 amps

In either case it sounds to me like it's time for the alternator to come off there

Cannot help you on the pulley, LOL.
 
67Dart273 said:
Might be the brushes. Do you know how to set up your multimeter for current? What model is the meter. As I said it's a simple magnet. Most fields draw "about 3-4A some of the later ones are up around 5-6 amps

In either case it sounds to me like it's time for the alternator to come off there

Cannot help you on the pulley, LOL.
Click to expand...


Well took it off and took it to have checked at 2 different places, 1st said the VR was bad since it wasn't charging, well IDIOT, it was in the machine he was using


So since I didn't want to take that answer went somewhere else and the kid had no idea what it was off of but it was good looking alternator. He checked it and it showed no output

So I felt confident it was bad and sent it to the people that worked on it 2 years ago after the 1st guy that I took it to check and told me it was bad when he didn't have a clue and messed it up.

They said it was the rotor so $50 and it should be good to know.

Will re install sometime this weekend and hope for the best

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top