Off idle stumble Eddy Carb

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Ok put a brand new ballast resistor on the car and let it warm up ran for about 10 mins started sputtering and died. Also changed coils and nothing.

To recap, last night after swapping rods and running the car it finally got where it wouldnt even crank without backfiring. Cranked right up on the first try this afternoon.


I dont see this as a timing issue, 15 degrees should be plenty for a nearly stock 318?


Pulled the top to check jets, fuel is so hot I cant put my finger in to get the jet out. Again this is the first carb ive had to tune so kinda learning as i go.
 
Geez, the old 1407.
You can try to buy every kit and rods and jets that are made. Never get it ti work. Rich running POS will kill the plugs, and burn everyones eyes.
 
Its really not running too rich gas smell is non existent, I pulled a plug yesterday and they are burning tan/brown.....

I put one step up main jets in it to see if it would help. The performance is WAYYYY better, but.... cant even make a small trip around the block without it dying at every stop sign.

Think im going to get a known good carb off another car and see what happens.
 
I know you don't want to hear this but BUY A HOLLEY! I just took a brand new 600 Eddy carb off my lil 340 and put on a 700DP. What a Huge difference.

I can say this from experience.......... EDDY CARBS SUCK.
 
Kinda what im thinking too, carbs really ticking me off. Just dont understand why it seems to work so well till it warms up. Even with a 1" spacer. and the engine bay really doesnt get all that hot deff not anywhere near over heating. I am using a fixed fan with no shroud at the moment.
 
according to popular hot rodding the #1 mistake of the top ten carb mistakes is incorrect fuel pressure... "The head of Edelbrock’s tech department, Dave Stinson, recommends a regulated pressure of 5 to 5.5 psi on their carbs, with a max of 6.5 psi."

If you can see any fuel dripping at idle it's probably too much pressure.
Back in 86 I bought a new 1406 for my daily driver 71 318 and it did great, -10 degrees to 100+. I bought a used Edelbrock for my dad's pickup and after that unknown mess, I swore I would by the next brand new again. So far I like the new 1406 on my 360, the one on my dad's pickup is still a mess, although better then the quadrajet that came off of it.
 
oldkimmer said:
.........change the coil and ballist resistor........................kim......
Click to expand...

X2. I've had that happen before, off idle stumble, but timing, carb, plugs, wires, and dizzy cap were fine...... Turns out it was the craptronix flame thrower coil. It crapped out.....
Replaced it and it was fine after
 
I changed the resistor out and put a known good coil on the car but didn't help. I'm gojna pull the carb off the car and look at it better maybe I'm missing some trash or something. I've never had trouble with a eddy like this before.
 
check for timing chain slop by turning the crank back and forth while watching the rotor in the distributor. The rotor should move when the crank moves. to much play could cause your issue. Sounds like a timing problem.
 
I dont really notice slack while trying to turn the engine by hand and watch the rotor. By hand there is approx 1/8" L/R turn I can make on the rotor. Would make sense that something else is degrading. I have made longer drives with this carb before making any changes. When I say I have 15-18 degrees im really just guessing my timing mark disappears under the chain cover. Im thinking ill let the car warm up to where it starts trying to die and see what the timing does maybe that will lend some insight...
 
May need to start something new in the electronics sections, I put the timing light on and its spot on even when it heats up BUT when the car heats up the car starts to burble and the car starts missing, every few seconds there are moments the timing light shuts off.
 
Yeah it sounds like you got a wire loose. Have you checked the gap from the pick up inside the distributor to the Reluctor?? If it is to big of a gap that could be your problem right there. I would set it at no more than .040
 
Pulled the ignition module off the fenderwell just to check (old chrome module) the module had turned to jello.
 
Try this, fire up your car and let it idle untill its fully warmed up, take a can of carburetor cleaner and lightly spray some carb cleaner around the throttle shafts on this edelbrock carburetor, spray the throttle shafts on the drivers side and the passenger side and listen for the engine idle speed to change, does it slow down?
I'm just about absolutly positive that your idle will smooth out when spraying the throttle shafts with carb cleaner, and that indicates that there is a vaccum leak at your throttle shafts, wich is a very common issue with these edelbrock carburetors because edelbrock does not put any bushings on there throttle shafts.
And because Edelbrock does not put any throttle bushings on there throttle shafts, the shafts wear into the aluminum body of the carburetor and cause vaccum leaks.
I just went thru this mess with edelbrock, I had a vaccum leak at the throttle shafts on a year old 600 cfm edelbrock performer, so i bought a brand new edelbrock 650 cfm avs and 3 months later my vaccum leak at the throttle shafts is back, so i sent my carburetor to a shop to get teflon throttle shaft bushings installed. I'm still waiting to get it back, but i should have it back any day now and i can tell you how well of a job he did. I decided to try getting some throttle shaft bushings put on before i dropped anotgher 400 bones on a brand new carburetor, but if i ever buy a carburetor brand new again i will not buy an edelbrock mainly do to this issue. Quickfuel and holley use throttle shafts bushings and i do not understand why edelbrock does not??
 
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