Oil pump priming question/concern

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Trevor B

Trevor B

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How tight should the oil pump feel when spinning it with a priming rod?

When I tested the oil pump on the floor before installing it, my little 12v drill spun it easily. Now, in the engine that I just finished buttoning up and dropped in, with oil in the pan, it is really stiff.

Torque wrench shows 9-10 ft-lbs to turn it counter clockwise.

Should it be this bogged down?

Thanks!
 
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It's gonna take some effort to pump that cold oil uphill and pressurize everything. I know I was surprised when i first hooked that drill up. How much pressure is it reading?
 
With oil in it, yup, it's gonna be a real drag.
 
Okay - first of all, THANK YOU. I had a horrible feeling in the pit of my stomach when contemplating the possibility of having to go back inside, either by pulling the engine back out or trying to drop the oil pan from underneath the car, which totally sucks.

I don't know how to measure the oil pressure. The oil pressure sending unit is the "light" type - I think it only triggers a warning light when something is wrong.

The 12v can't handle it and won't spin. My next-step up more powerful drill is the impact driver but that seems like it might be overkill... I think it's rated at like 700 ft-lbs.
 
Yeah a 12v drill may not be enough. A stock pump drags down my 18v drill. Don't worry about the pressure. You should have at least the valve covers off so you can witness oiling every rocker. Some cams only allow oil to the head every 180* or so, so you may need to slowly turn over the engine by hand and prime the engine til you find the sweet spot and can see the rockers receive oil.
 
It would be a real good idea to buy a mechanical oil pressure gauge and use it while breaking in your engine. I would also consider mounting one permanent inside your car. Even if its an electronic oil pressure gauge. I have a Mopar electronic gauge mounted in my Dart. And yes when I was priming the oil pump in my 416 I'm installing in my 68 Barracuda, I used a 18v Dewalt and it bogged it down enough for me to switch to a electric 1/2" drill.
 
Wonder if anyone has ever done a study on HP required to operate a factory / HP / HV pump at high RPM
 
67Dart273 said:
Wonder if anyone has ever done a study on HP required to operate a factory / HP / HV pump at high RPM
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I am sure there is horsepower to be saved. Likely why the current trend of 5W20 oils in the new vehicles. Closer tolerances made this possible, and fuel saving would help the corporate average fuel economy
 
How do you get the distributor drive in correctly after priming? That little guy spins quite a bit while it engages the camshaft teeth. If it drops in wrong, it is no easy task to pull it back out of there. Even when I disassemble a motor, I find it binds and I have to tap it out from underneath after removing the oil pump.
 
dibbons said:
How do you get the distributor drive in correctly after priming? That little guy spins quite a bit while it engages the camshaft teeth. If it drops in wrong, it is no easy task to pull it back out of there. Even when I disassemble a motor, I find it binds and I have to tap it out from underneath after removing the oil pump.
Click to expand...

Found the same thing when donig mine and wanted to reclock the gear. I took a long piece of dental floss and used a screwdriver to get it under a few teeth of the dist drive gear. Then i could put some upward pulling pressure on it while working the slot with the screwdriver. Works like a champ.
 
I use a long big blade screw driver, insert it in the distributor drive and turn it counter clockwise and they twist right out. I then use a pair of long handle noddle knees pliers and pull it right out. I've never had a problem removing the Dist/oil pump drive. Maybe on a older motor with a lot of miles it may be a little harder.
 
Another thing to be aware of is the bushing to oil pump shaft clearance. It might be too tight. Without the oil pump and cam in, the distributor drive should spin freely, if not it is too tight. Sometimes you will need to ream the bushing after it is installed in the block. I installed a tight one (back in the day) and hoped it would free up and it ended up gauling the bushing and shaft.
 
67Dart273 said:
Wonder if anyone has ever done a study on HP required to operate a factory / HP / HV pump at high RPM
Click to expand...

Yes but I don't remember who did the testing.

If you called Titan, I'm sure he could give you some info on it. Maybe the guy from System 1 as well.

I can tell you that in the limited testing I did on the dyno, if you are using the correct oil for your clearances, and the oil is up to temp, the difference is very very small. Like 4-5 HP.
 
Car Craft several years ago did testing on a SBC hv vs standard pump...as said above about 4-5 hp difference....they found more HP with changing the viscosity of the oil
 
BTW, OP for the drill, we use a large and powerful 1/2" AC corded drill, used to bore holes in framing for electrical work, and even that drill will slow down a bit when the pressure loads up the pump.
 
wow...i use a speed wrench ...and turn it over by hand.....just did one last week.....temporary gauge showed 60 psi.....by hand...
 
70aarcuda said:
wow...i use a speed wrench ...and turn it over by hand.....just did one last week.....temporary gauge showed 60 psi.....by hand...
Click to expand...
I too have used a speed wrench, but you run out of hands trying to use a speed wrench and turn the crank to line up the valve train to get oil to the rockers.lol
 
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