oil?

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Torch

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Hello from Ontario. Still lots of snow, but might as well start getting ready for April, May? Last summer I had this annoying Lifter and or rocker tick. I installed new rockers and lifters and put 10w30 oil instead of synthetic oil in the 340, and the tick was gone.
Yup for 5 minutes, oil warms up tick returns. Start it up next day and same thing. This year guess I will drain the 10w30 and install ??!
I was thinking 15w40, or 50? Any idea;s out there?
Thanks Guys,
Lar.

DSC01592.jpg
 
Three questions.
Has your engine gone 8-10K miles before this started?
Have you tried going back to the oil you were using before?
And exactly what oil were you using before?
 
Three questions.
Has your engine gone 8-10K miles before this started?
Have you tried going back to the oil you were using before?
And exactly what oil were you using before?
I got this auto with the tick at 5000 miles on it after my 69 Barracuda was destroyed. Most people said the noise is barely there. I hated it.
It had synthetic oil in it. 10w30. Tick, tick, tick.
At leased conventional oil stopped the tick till engine and oil heat up.
No exhaust leaks.
 
If I read it right you already had a noisy lifter and replaced all of them? Did you isolate the bad lifter the first time and again now? If it's the same one you might have bigger issues.
 
In the 60's I always used Quaker State oil. I bought a new 71 Duster 340 and started using Castrol GTX and had a lifter noise. I switched to QS oil and lifter noise was gone.
 
If I read it right you already had a noisy lifter and replaced all of them? Did you isolate the bad lifter the first time and again now? If it's the same one you might have bigger issues.
I agree. Before hoping different oil fixes the noise, I'd check lifter preload.
 
>You know that 340 rocker arms are different from the rest of the SBMs, Right? They are factory milled for the larger diameter valve spring retainers. If you have the big retainers they can hit the underside of the rocker arms whenever the valve closes. This will get worse over time if the valves move up into the ports.
> you have adequate oil-pressure, right?
>Have you got enough lifter preload?
>Are the cam-lobes ok?
>Did you check your pushrods for rubbing in the tunnels?
>Ima guessing that you installed the rocker shafts .
correctly; notches down and to the right?
>Unless you have modified your oiling system, the rocker shafts only get oil once every cam rotation, which is half crank-rpm, and only for a few degrees.
> IMO, what oil viscosity that you install should have no effect on any of this unless the tic is caused by a faulty lifter.
BTW: If your engine does NOT have the 90* oil-filter adapter, AND, your cold viscosity is too thick, it has happened that oil-pressure will lift the oilfilter off the plate and make a mess. If it gets onto the headers, it could catch fire.
>Have you isolated which one(s) are noisy?

Have you considered to
Install a 3" full-length dual exhaust system? My engine ticks too, but I know why and don't care, and I can't hear it from the driver's seat, over the exhaust..... lol.
Just kidding.....
 
I would be a bit apprehensive about straight 50.
Might not get enough flow even though you would have great oil pressure.
Nice high oil pressure is kind of comforting, but flow volume is super important.
20/50 would be ok though.
I have used straight 50 in old worn motors that had low oil pressure, but not in anything I really cared about.
 
Here's a dumb thought, what kind of valve covers are you running ?

(I had a Ford once with an aftermarket valve train and fancy valve covers. That thing sounded like a sewing machine...turned out the valve covers didn't clear all the rockers)
 
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