Ok here goes benifits of degreeing cams?

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bdusted440 said:
Im doing it like the video above,
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The positive stop is a waste of time.

As said before, I don't back the engine up, even to find TDC.

And, I never degree a cam at .006 and not verify the ICL. That's nuts. I've seen them right on at .050 and be off at max lift.

Just my thoughts on the above video.
 
yellow rose said:
Ok. Thought maybe comp was showing a different method.
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No, it's the intake center line method. I simply recommended it because it's a nice kit and everything including instructions is all in one place.
 
bdusted440 said:
Thank you guys im ripping it down now.
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You have been told to find exact TDC, are the heads still on? If so, You need an insert/positive stop to install in place of the spark plug(w/#1 safely before TDC say 90deg), then
roll the engine easy w/all the other plugs out up till it just stops. Mark the degree wheel Then roll counterclockwise till it stops again, halfway between that point & the 1st mark
is it-TDC. You could(& should) do this on the damper also to make sure it is marked correctly, or if the ring may have slipped.
 
No way would I do it exactly like the guy in the video.

You could use the same approach except at higher lift points .050 or .200.
 
Killer6 said:
You have been told to find exact TDC, are the heads still on? If so, You need an insert/positive stop to install in place of the spark plug(w/#1 safely before TDC say 90deg), then
roll the engine easy w/all the other plugs out up till it just stops. Mark the degree wheel Then roll counterclockwise till it stops again, halfway between that point & the 1st mark
is it-TDC. You could(& should) do this on the damper also to make sure it is marked correctly, or if the ring may have slipped.
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This is correct. My statement about the positive stop was doing it without a head on like in the video. With the head on you need a positive stop.
 
I turn them backwards all the time when doing this stuff.

The KEY is you have to go backwards further than the number you are looking for. It's not like the chain is going to go slack or skip a tooth. Going back further and coming back to your number removes the slack from the set up. Not a big deal with a timing chain. Checked afterwards heading one direction, no change in readings.
 
crackedback said:
I turn them backwards all the time when doing this stuff.

The KEY is you have to go backwards further than the number you are looking for. It's not like the chain is going to go slack or skip a tooth. Going back further and coming back to your number removes the slack from the set up. Not a big deal with a timing chain. Checked afterwards heading one direction, no change in readings.
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This is true. But it seems I can do it faster without all that going backwards, using a positive stop deal and all that. Guess maybe I should make a video showing how to degree a cam from the beginning and show exactly how little time it takes. Hell I could even show a gear drive correctly.
 
yellow rose said:
This is true. But it seems I can do it faster without all that going backwards, using a positive stop deal and all that. Guess maybe I should make a video showing how to degree a cam from the beginning and show exactly how little time it takes. Hell I could even show a gear drive correctly.
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I would be very interested in your method, so please feel free to do it. I am all about learnin new stuff.
 
Had a neighbor build a Pontiac engine for a street car many years ago. Ran ok , but he knew it should run better. Went thru everything, and then checked the cam centerline. Found the cam was 10 degrees retarded. Figured someone cut the slot for the cam key wrong. So I centerline everything I build now.
 
Sterling said:
Had a neighbor build a Pontiac engine for a street car many years ago. Ran ok , but he knew it should run better. Went thru everything, and then checked the cam centerline. Found the cam was 10 degrees retarded. Figured someone cut the slot for the cam key wrong. So I centerline everything I build now.
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Ok so I bought the kit per Rusty Rat Rod's suggestion. As he is more knowledgeable in this than me and im wanting to learn. . received it today. So I will be freezing my coconuts off as it just snowed and is 18*out. But im gonna try it out.
 
bdusted440 said:
Ok so I bought the kit per Rusty Rat Rod's suggestion. As he is more knowledgeable in this than me and im wanting to learn. . received it today. So I will be freezing my coconuts off as it just snowed and is 18*out. But im gonna try it out.
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Does the kit come with a dial indicator and mag base or did you already have one?

Glad you are willing to learn. You be happy you did.
 
Yes, the Comp kit is nice.......even if some forum heroes think it's Chevy stuff. It works good. Has everything in it.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yes, the Comp kit is nice.......even if some forum heroes think it's Chevy stuff. It works good. Has everything in it.
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It has everything in it. So I tried it on the stock cam and came up 2 * off. The new one is .60 from dead nuts. I think I should leave it alone. LOL unless there is a way to get it perfect.
 
bdusted440 said:
It has everything in it. So I tried it on the stock cam and came up 2 * off. The new one is .60 from dead nuts. I think I should leave it alone. LOL unless there is a way to get it perfect.
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Oh bought the cam tool too just to be safe im not as steady as I used to be.
 
So I wanted to say Thank You to you guys for the help. I learned a lot in this endeavor. And thanks for the tip on the degree kit RRR. I have more learning to do yet but its a start. Prost,
 
yellow rose said:
This is true. But it seems I can do it faster without all that going backwards, using a positive stop deal and all that. Guess maybe I should make a video showing how to degree a cam from the beginning and show exactly how little time it takes. Hell I could even show a gear drive correctly.
Click to expand...
Do it. We need more sticky's around this place. Whatever happend to them? Us dummies learn alot from them.
 
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