OMG! i need help plz

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63VALIANT*KISS

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so my brakes went out yesterday and we found a leak it was the wheel cylander so i replaced it this morning and took the car around the block there was tons of air in the lines took like 6 pumps to make them solid and my dad said i need to bleed the brakes but those things are on there tighyt vicegrips wont lock on it and my dad said i have to be careful with them if they brake i get to get a new wheel cylander is there a way thats good to get these loose and what size is it?
 
bleeders are 5/16 inch on my dart & valiant, and I usually use a deep well 1/4 inch drive socket and ratchet to break them loose, then an end wrench to open and close for bleeding.
 
I'm thinking the bleeder screws are something like either 1/4 in, 9/32ths or 5/16ths. These should all be available in a 1/4 in drive socket set (which is what I've always used on stubborn bleeders (and yes even with gentle persuasion, have had some break)
 
are you talking about trying to loosin the bleeder valve. if they are frozen i would try to spray some tri-flo on there or liquid wrench and let it sit for a bit, then get an actual brake bleeder valve wrench, not vice grips. and instead of trying to just force it loose, maybe tap the wrench with a mallet to try and break the valve loose. worse case you break it. and you have to replace the wheel cylinders. but if they are that corroded maybe you should change them anyway. do you know how old they are? do you still have the 9" drums?
 
I use a box end wrench to open bleeders. A cheap-o one man bleeder kit and a bottle of brake fluid are all that you'll need. Start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (RR) and work in. The tough part is to get the line to the bleed reservoir to stay on the bleeder valve. When the end of the hose sticking into the bottle is covered by fluid and there are no bubbles in the line between the bleeder and the bottle, the brake is bled. Try to keep the bleeder hose on the valve until you have it snugged down well.

The first stuff out of the system is apt to be murky. IMO brakes and steering are places where NO SHORTCUTS should be taken. I figure I can always push the car if it doesn't run, but I've fixed the floorboards and can't drag my feet to stop it.
 
put all new wheels cyl. on the car and while at it replace the rubber hoses too. cheap saftey insurance.
 
me and my girl freind got the brakes bled in record time for our first time 5hrs harhar! the back was a 5/16th and the front was a 1/4 wrench started farthest away ending with closest wasnt as hard as i thought kinda time consuming and wasnt very conveinent either thanks for all the hlp it will be better next time!
 
put all new wheels cyl. on the car and while at it replace the rubber hoses too. cheap saftey insurance.

Hey big guy, do what Abody joe said and buy wheel cyl for the other 3 wheels. If your one wheel cyl blew, you are playing with fate if you don't change the other 3 cylenders. For the $21 that it will cost, it is cheap insurance

Very bad idea just to leave it. let me put it this way...

$21 for 3 more cyl

OR

$2.1 M for the family you kill when you blow through the stop light because your brakes failed.

Phil

PS, it would be also a good idea to change your Master Cyle from single piston to Double. But that will cost a bit more than $21....maybe $80
 
i probbly will replace them all i just dont have the time right now when me and my dad get to tear more of the parts car apart where gonna make 1 good brake set out of mine and the parts car and his car hes going disc
 
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