overdrive tranny problems

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69fastbackfish

69fastbackfish

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A 833 overdrive problems, are thees trans to weak for a 383 engine? Have spent over 900.00 in parts and labor to have this trans overhauled, not only am i hearing that its too weak for a big block application it seems as i if its stuck in gear.
should i just cut my ties and get a new one from brewers, or passon? any help would be great.
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Maybe a little more info??????
 
69fastbackfish said:
A 833 overdrive problems, are thees trans to weak for a 383 engine? Have spent over 900.00 in parts and labor to have this trans overhauled, not only am i hearing that its too weak for a big block application it seems as i if its stuck in gear.
should i just cut my ties and get a new one from brewers, or passon? any help would be great.
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Yuppp,, wayy tooo weak.. Thats why they put them in 1/2 ton and 3/4
ton pick-up trucks with step bumpers that have a ball on them to tow
a car trailer with a 4000# car on the 1500# trailer even in the mountains.

The 833OD has a great first gear, 1:1 third, and fourth is OD..
The first swap I did was using a trans from a junk yard.. Cleaned it and
slapped it behind a 440+6 'Cuda convert... Off line was great and cruising
was fantastic... And yes, MPG increase..

Go for it and don't even think twice about it...
Unless of course,, you are going to put on slicks and do third gear
dumps... Then might have a problem or two... [-X :D
 
They are a touch weaker than a straight drive 833, but not by much. Their only weak spot if there is one is in the ones with the aluminum case. Since the countershaft turns all the time, the aluminum case sometimes galls. The fix is simply to disassemble the trans and bush the case. A stock OD should be able to hold a stock or mild 383 just fine.
 
StrokerScamp said:
They are a touch weaker than a straight drive 833, but not by much. Their only weak spot if there is one is in the ones with the aluminum case. Since the countershaft turns all the time, the aluminum case sometimes galls. The fix is simply to disassemble the trans and bush the case. A stock OD should be able to hold a stock or mild 383 just fine.
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The cluster gear turns all the time but the shaft it rides on does not turn unless the woodruff key at the back breaks off or is not installed. The front hole for the shaft can wallow over time if the trans is beat on , that is what usually happens.

As far as the OP's trans being stuck in gear , something is wrong with the syncros , shift arms or the shifter .
 
alright guys thanks for the help, this is a cruiser car with mild 383 and will never see the strip, so with that in mind should i try to take my freshly built trans to a shop or is this something i can handle on my own. So far both shift forks have been replaced and bearings during the overhaul
 
Sometimes when it is "stuck in gear" it's the shifter mechanism and not the trans. If you drop the linkage off the trans, will it shift OK with a wrench on the levers? If so, the shifter may be leaving it in second while trying to go to third. The trans will not let you go into two gears at once, so you stay stuck in second. On a Hurst Competition Plus unit, you can just snug up the main cross bolt to get rid of the slop.
 
Actually no rods are hooked up and i think its stuck in first gear and i cant get it to shift out, im affraid to put to much force on it. Before i got it stuck it seemed to shift hust fine with the wrench, is it ossible to be stuck between two gears?
 
i had a mechanic do it but he has since moved town, ive taken the trans out put it on my bench and now gear oil is running out of the tail shaft. The input and output turn freely but i cant figure it out, this has never been on the road yet since the overhaul.
 
Make sure it's out of reverse then give the levers a good yank. Believe me, you'll pull on them alot harder at 5000rpms when beating up on chevy's. I'd take a peek under the cover. Just open slowly & you'll understand how/where the forks sit.
 
Its out of first now and i can move the 3-4 lever and reverse lever, but it keeps getting stuck in first however when i turn the input shaft then i can wiggle it back to nuetral. i know its not the shift mechanism. I know nothing about what to look for when i take off the side cover.
 
There is a mechanism inside the cover plate to prevent being in two gears at the same time. If it is hanging up in first, it might be one of the three pawls or springs that keep the first/second slider/coupler in place. A full tear down will be in order.
 
GOt it all apart cleaned everything and it all looks good, the syncro spring and taps seem to be what it is thats giving me trouble. But whats wrong with them? I cannot figure out whats wrong with them, should i order new springs and tabs? Should i order new brass rings?
 
Look at the dog keys. Do they have lots of wear? Look at the inside of the 1-2 sleeve. Any scoring or wear there? How about the fork. Any grooving or wear? Oh, and one more thing, DO NOT shift it into 4th gear overdrive while it's on the bench with the side cover off. Sleeve moves too far and all the dog keys will pop out! Found that one out the hard way.
 
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