hemifish69
Dain bramaged Hemi freak
The following is what I posted at Painless Wiring's help forum.
While I'm waiting for them to get back w/ me, I'm wondering if there's anyone here with some ideas.
Hi all,
It needs to be said that I've been working on installing this harness p/n-10127 on and off (mostly off) since July of 2011. That will cause all sorts of problems, mostly because one has to remember where you left off when you get a spare moment to work on the car.
So I know up front that any problems I'm having are not Painless's fault.
Here's where I'm at.
All gauges installed in fabricated aluminum dash to replace the 44 y/o plastic insert.
- The harness is installed, fuse block mounted on the firewall under the dash, the wires I'm using are terminated at their respective systems, and the ones I'm not using (a/c, heater, third brake light, dome light, etc) are coiled, zip tied, and insulating caps crimped on the ends to avoid shorts.
- All dash gauges (autometer) are in, gauge lighting operable and dimmable from factory headlight switch.
- The engine starter can be bumped (engine hasn't started in 3 years, I'm not ready to do that yet), the ballast resistor gets hot in "run", like it should.
- I have headlights, bright&dim, (hi-beam indicator not operating, aftermarket LED automotive light from oreilly's) and I have running lights, front and back (questions about wire #929).
This is the main problem(s):
- Turn on hazards: get hazards front & back.
- Select left or right turn: get hazards (also, turn indicators don't work) ((same type of automotive LED as hi beam from oreilly's
- Depress brake pedal, get hazards (non-flashing, the duplex bulbs light on bright front and rear when brakes are pushed.
- Wire #929. I have a short length of it that I assume was to go to the headlight switch, and a longer lead that I probably cut off when I thought I would just use the factory harness from the a-pillar back.
Bad Idea, I know. ended up running the uncut wires to the trunk, and terminated all properly to the tail lights. I don't have running lights at the back end unless I have one of those #929 wires connected to the headlight switch output. Then the other 929 wire is hot, and I don't know what to do with it.
My next step is to remove the wires going to the hazard switch and see if that changes anything. Beyond that, I don't see what to do besides start at the grill and verify every wire #.
While I'm waiting for them to get back w/ me, I'm wondering if there's anyone here with some ideas.
Hi all,
It needs to be said that I've been working on installing this harness p/n-10127 on and off (mostly off) since July of 2011. That will cause all sorts of problems, mostly because one has to remember where you left off when you get a spare moment to work on the car.
So I know up front that any problems I'm having are not Painless's fault.
Here's where I'm at.
All gauges installed in fabricated aluminum dash to replace the 44 y/o plastic insert.
- The harness is installed, fuse block mounted on the firewall under the dash, the wires I'm using are terminated at their respective systems, and the ones I'm not using (a/c, heater, third brake light, dome light, etc) are coiled, zip tied, and insulating caps crimped on the ends to avoid shorts.
- All dash gauges (autometer) are in, gauge lighting operable and dimmable from factory headlight switch.
- The engine starter can be bumped (engine hasn't started in 3 years, I'm not ready to do that yet), the ballast resistor gets hot in "run", like it should.
- I have headlights, bright&dim, (hi-beam indicator not operating, aftermarket LED automotive light from oreilly's) and I have running lights, front and back (questions about wire #929).
This is the main problem(s):
- Turn on hazards: get hazards front & back.
- Select left or right turn: get hazards (also, turn indicators don't work) ((same type of automotive LED as hi beam from oreilly's
- Depress brake pedal, get hazards (non-flashing, the duplex bulbs light on bright front and rear when brakes are pushed.
- Wire #929. I have a short length of it that I assume was to go to the headlight switch, and a longer lead that I probably cut off when I thought I would just use the factory harness from the a-pillar back.
Bad Idea, I know. ended up running the uncut wires to the trunk, and terminated all properly to the tail lights. I don't have running lights at the back end unless I have one of those #929 wires connected to the headlight switch output. Then the other 929 wire is hot, and I don't know what to do with it.
My next step is to remove the wires going to the hazard switch and see if that changes anything. Beyond that, I don't see what to do besides start at the grill and verify every wire #.
