Painless Wiring

[hemifish69]

This is a duplicate I posted in Members Restoration, forgetting that there's a wiring section.

Waiting for painless to give me some suggestions, this is what I posted to them, hoping someone here has some ideas too.

Hi all,

It needs to be said that I've been working on installing this harness p/n-10127 on and off (mostly off) since July of 2011. That will cause all sorts of problems, mostly because one has to remember where you left off when you get a spare moment to work on the car.

So I know up front that any problems I'm having are not Painless's fault.

Here's where I'm at.

All gauges installed in fabricated aluminum dash to replace the 44 y/o plastic insert.

- The harness is installed, fuse block mounted on the firewall under the dash, the wires I'm using are terminated at their respective systems, and the ones I'm not using (a/c, heater, third brake light, dome light, etc) are coiled, zip tied, and insulating caps crimped on the ends to avoid shorts.

- All dash gauges (autometer) are in, gauge lighting operable and dimmable from factory headlight switch.

- The engine starter can be bumped (engine hasn't started in 3 years, I'm not ready to do that yet), the ballast resistor gets hot in "run", like it should.
- I have headlights, bright&dim, (hi-beam indicator not operating, aftermarket LED automotive light from oreilly's) and I have running lights, front and back (questions about wire #929).

This is the main problem(s):

- Turn on hazards: get hazards front & back.
- Select left or right turn: get hazards (also, turn indicators don't work) ((same type of automotive LED as hi beam from oreilly's
- Depress brake pedal, get hazards (non-flashing, the duplex bulbs light on bright front and rear when brakes are pushed.
- Wire #929. I have a short length of it that I assume was to go to the headlight switch, and a longer lead that I probably cut off when I thought I would just use the factory harness from the a-pillar back.

Bad Idea, I know. ended up running the uncut wires to the trunk, and terminated all properly to the tail lights. I don't have running lights at the back end unless I have one of those #929 wires connected to the headlight switch output. Then the other 929 wire is hot, and I don't know what to do with it.

My next step is to remove the wires going to the hazard switch and see if that changes anything. Beyond that, I don't see what to do besides start at the grill and verify every wire #.

 

[67Dart273]

MAKE SURE ALL SOCKETS are grounded.

Without knowing "what you did" this is impossible to say. Generally, the common interconnect between the front and rear signal lamps is the signal switch itself, that is................

The only thing which the left rear signal lamp hooks to is the signal switch, period

The only thing which the right rear signal lamp hooks to is the signal switch

The only THREE things which the front lamps hook to is

One front lamp hooked to one indicator (panel and fender if equipped), hooked to one leg of the 4x switch, and all this hooks to the signal switch.

I assume we are working on a 69? which means? a dash mounted 4x switch?

If so, that switch has 4 terminals, none of which are interconnected when off. ALL FOUR are jumpered together when on

When on, the switch jumpers the following together:

The 4x flasher output

the left front lamp filament

the right front lamp filament

And the brake light switch line going into the signal switch, which feeds both rear lamps when the signal switch is centered.

Do not discount the possibility that you might have a bad 4x or a bad signal switch

Wire 929?

This is why I detest stuff like Painless, no diagram!!!! I'd guess that 929 was essentially a "loose wire" that is, not terminated, just "in the harness"

Sounds like it was meant to take the switched tail lamp output from the headlight switch and route it to the tail lamp filaments.

In this manual

[ame="http://www.painlesswiring.com/Manuals/10127.pdf"]www.painlesswiring.com/Manuals/10127.pdf[/ame]

in my viewer page 21, table 9-1, "Tail " section it shows the origin as headlight switch, destination as "tail lights"

Also bear in mind that some guys like to convert older cars to have "full time" park lights. You can do this the same way Mopar did----hook the tail lamps to the park lamps terminal of the light switch.

 

[hemifish69]

Your reply got me thinking. The steering column wiring is one of the locations where painless lets you fend for yourself
I think that a miswire here will produce the problem. It'll be a few days before I can check it out

 

[67Dart273]

Post back, here to help.

 

[hemifish69]

A call to painless got things straightened out.

The problem was in the way the hazard switch was wired.

Hazards worked fine, but when the directional or brakes were selected, they backfed through the hazard wiring, and you got: hazards.

Not really my fault, when pressed, painless told me to go buy a diode kit from radio shack.

Disconnect the hazards, everything works.

 

[BillGrissom]

You didn't tell us (or Painless?) the year and model of your car. My 69 Dart did not have a hazard lamp switch, so I am guessing a later car. My 69 did have more complicated wiring in the turn signal switch than my 65, probably because the rear turn signals and brakes share a bulb filament. Sounds like those were part of the problem.

 

[67Dart273]

I don't understand Painless's answer. The wiring for your signal/ hazard should not have changed so far as that goes. Have they tried to combine the two flasher units into one? Are you using a non factory flasher switch?